Anything Manufacturing - Small to Medium Scale Metal Work (CAD/CAM included!)

I never remove mill scale on anything myself, but I often see that as being the most recommended method in my group.

People will do it to have a clean slate for powdercoat or metal cast paint.

 

I use this for mill scale removal:

https://benchmarkabrasives.com/coll...ng-life-paint-rust-stripping-cup-wheel-1-pack

Removes mill scale well without digging into the metal too much, it's also super fast.

 

That came out so well.

 

did you see the post i made thanking you? I tagged you but wasnt sure if you saw it ha. And agreed, we couldnt be happier with the result.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...al-discussion.551852/page-25284#post-30383399

 

Calm Saturday morning

 

Ran into an issue with my tubing notcher. Need to notch some tube at 60* to build my seat mounts. I can only go about halfway through then the teeth will hit the aluminum clamp. Guess I'm back to hand drawn and a grinder....
Or should I pick up a piece of steel plate and make some modifications... Hmmmm.

 

What tube notcher is that?

Don't have one since I don't have a bender, but it helps people knowing what tools work (or have small issues).

 

It is a Pro-Tools, I think the older 501i. They've changed the handle. It can do both straight and offset notches and can be mounted to a drill press, I just don't have one tall enough. It was honestly a good investment for me, it saved me a lot of time notching the roll cages for my car and tractor.
I think I am going to get a 12"x6" of 1/2" steel plate and extend it to clear the clamp. Since the clamp can be offset, it won't be an issue getting it aligned. Extending it will also give me more clamping area on the vise.

 

I’ve got the same one.

 

Zero science or analysis on this one, just testing out the SWAG Offroad finger brake with the tight bend plate on it.

I am a little lower on the left end by about 1/8” during the press though.

 

Isn't that a dating website

 

IYKYK, if not, there’s only one way to find out…

 

Was asked to make a few parts and weld them together for tomorrow. When one of the dimensions provided was listed as 5 1/16" I figured I should make some test cuts.

Since switching from PrimeWeld to Hypertherm, I never bothered to change my kerf value until earlier today. I had left it at the same value as I had on my other machine these past few months.

First test cut with the slightly incorrect kerf using a 5" x 0.625" geometry -





Second attempt with my correction -





Customer says it's significantly more precise than it needs to be

 

Went with 4"x1/2"x12" stainless. 2 slots and 1 hole to mount and lower the cutter. Now, it can cut 60* without cutting the clamp.

 

Whether it's the first, or hundredth, there's something oddly satisfying about having a new sheet of cold rolled steel on the table



Had the idea last night to use up some wall space in the kid's playroom



Right off the table, I always love how to clean the cuts are



Here's the worst part of the dross (almost none at all)







The kid loves it and that's all that matters

 

I didn't stop there of course.

 

So I am seeking some advice. I am looking to create a sign on .125 steel at roughly 4' diameter circle, then use the other half of the sheet to provide a background with spacers. (Basically two 4' diameter circles with only one bearing the design cut out below).

My question is what would you recommend be the smartest approach to the sign creation? I am on F360. I have a DXF of the cat and EST Date, but only PNG of everything else. I brought in the DXF and then thought I should just import a canvas and then use the sketch to trace over the remainder. I don't want to anyone to do this, just want to ensure I learn the most efficient critical path for the creation of such things.

 

Inkscape for artistic stuff.

I don't make signs but this is what everyone I know uses.