1997 4WD 2.7L - No Fuel Pressure After Headgasket Replacement

Trucks been sitting a while as I've only now gotten to replacing the cylinder head. I last replaced the fuel pump around March 2024 and would like to know how to confirm if the fuel pump went bad again. I've hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel filter and get 0 pressure, when I last replaced the fuel pump last March it was successfully getting pressure and started up after the replacement.

I'm hoping I have everything hooked up right, everything looks close to the pictures I took before replacing the head and I've also replaced the fuel filter because it was there and replaced my started because I would only get single click no crank... but after replacing it no crank until I tightened the battery cable down better...

I've tried searching and am thoroughly confused how to confirm if power is being sent to the fuel pump or not. I don't know how to test relays or which fuses to check.

 

Power is only sent to the fuel pump if there is a crank signal.
Does your truck have a tach?
If so, do the RPM's move when cranking?

You could also jump power to the pump at the fuse box.
But check the rpms first....

 

No tach, only have a temperature, speedometer, and fuel level gauges.
How do you jump the power to the fuel pump? When I last replaced it I found out that the tacoma doesn't prime the pump with accessories but only during crank that's what led me to getting the Autozone fuel pressure tester kit and testing it that way.

Oh and I have a question, should I try to pull codes now that it cranks and the battery is tightened down, maybe that could help me know if I've missed a connector while putting it all together or does the ECU need to cycle through while running before it can give me any information?
How do I connect the battery to the connectors on top of the fuel pump shown on page 180 here? Do I stick a paperclip or needle into the connector?

http://web.archive.org/web/20101127014333/http://ncttora.com/fsm/1996/96_repair_searchable.pdf

 

Awesome that bed is off

assuming no codes tossed??

 

Unfortunately bed is still on so going to have to drop the tank to test the fuel pump. Might as well replace it while it's down to rule it out?
Trying to find my scanner to check for codes.

 

Hmmmmm

if zero FP reading from FF….after new FP recently installed…. I would check FP installation work first

IMO
Bed coming off much easier than dropping tank

 

Fuel filter is new, fuel pump was installed a year ago and was working before being parked long.

Just checked no codes active or pending.

Will probably wait until tomorrow or Thursday to get under and try to test the fuel pump it's too cold to be laying on the ground tonight.

 

I would check these fuse first.
15A EFI fuse - power at all times.
7.5A STA fuse - Power when cranking.

I'm still looking for the diagrams with BN1 connector to make your life much easier.
You could jump the C-Open relay pins (White/Red and Blue)
Key on.

 

BN1 is under the driver seat.

 

How do you test those larger fuses? The clear ones show breaks or burn but I'm not sure how to test the enclosed ones

 

Thank you my diagrams skipped pages 28-49.
And guess where BN1 was.......

 

I'm trying to check my grounds, I'm missing battery to body ground and I need help knowing where EB on the diagram is supposed to be. From another thread I read it says on the intake manifold but I'm not sure exactly where.

I also have 2 plugs under the fuse box that I have no clue what they're supposed to go to?

And my coolant temp sensor looks pretty busted.

 

What should I search for to find that coolant sensor connector? The results I'm seeing have more than 1 prong or only show the sensor that threads into the coolant pipe.

 

The 15A and 7.5A fuses look good not broken and have continuity.
EFI relay seems to be good grabbed this relay tester and it shows green and I hear it click when I press the test button

$53 Performance Tool 3009 Compact Cordless Automotive Relay Tester for 12 Volt 4 and 5 pin relays and More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB711FNB

I need help with the C/O Relay I'm not sure which pins to jump based on the colors, I think the solid one in the top right is blue but it might be purple I'm color blind. Not sure if the middle or bottom left is the white/red, middle looks green/red and bottom left looks white/black.

On the relay I only see 2 markings on the pins "B 4"

 

Top right looks blue to me.

Plus, the other wires fit the diagram.
So we can deduce that the only other wire left, would be the "blue" wire.

 

Sorry I am just not very smart, would that mean that I would be jumping the two wires on the right of the picture I took the solid blue and the gray/white?
Tested the C/O Relay and it checks out good.

 

those 2 pigtails under fuse box......
-unk if u have ABS......if you have.....possible LF ABS sensor

-the only other male pigtail plugs on intake side of motor are crank shaft sensor and oil pressure sender
also
on my 96 block there is a cap but some other newer 2rz/3rz's there is a camshaft sensor

I KNOW from my experience(s) that the CTS sensor has prevented my taco from starting(twice)
that crushed pigtail looks pretty bad

 

Oh ABS okay, I don't think I have that there's an empty port in the fuse box where the lid says ABS.

For the crushed pigtail I checked this morning and it's destroyed, but I was able to remove the cover and attach the pin directly.

Jumped the wires and set the key to ON position and didn't hear anything from the fuel pump and fuel pressure stayed at 0. I have a new fuel pump coming today I think I'm at an okay spot to say it's most likely the fuel pump is junked.

 

remember(for unk reason)
only cranking engine starts fuel pump
(unlike every other vehicle i have worked on)

 

ok ok
we have 2 CTS's
that coolant sensor that you made work only makes gauge work
the CTS i was referring to is on back of the head(near firewall)