2.7 AC Exhaust Replacement- Did I Overlook Anything?

Background:
06 2.7 ACLB throwing repeated p0420 emissions codes for catalyst efficiency. Examining the truck in detail, the car is extra crusty and exhaust system too, truck may have been a flood vehicle in its last life. Also my current daily so while I’m sure the car is failing the exhaust is rusting through in a couple spots so I figure I’d do everything in one go to minimize downtime. Trying to be $$ conscious though, placed my parts order today, did I overlook anything?

planning on knocking this out next weekend, I’m the branch manager for a construction equipment dealer so I have access to a multi bay heated shop and all the tools I could need to get er done.

parts diagram I used from RockAuto:


Managed to piece it together with a stainless rear section and a cat & both oxygen sensors for less than most aftermarket systems.

what I ordered (only extra item was a tube of exhaust sealing paste):

 

I HAVE HEARD THAT IF YOU DONT GET OEM TOYOTA CATS YOUR CODES WILL APPEAR SOON AFTER INSTALLING GENERIC ONES.

 

OEM oxygen sensors.
No way I’d put anything else on a Toyota but OEM oxygen sensors. (Air/fuel too)
You’ll have more trouble out of those, than the converter.
The converter will probably work, but not too long. Maybe 30k-50k miles?

 

Well phuck…

hedging my bets at this point with ox sensors & cat I suppose. My daily commute to/from work is ~6miles so if I get 30k out of it that’s 21yrs LOL

I know that’s not realistic but I’m planning on having the truck for another year or 2 at the most before moving on/upgrading.

 

If the o2 sensors work. You'll be fine.
Toyota just doesn't tolerate the slightest deviations in signal too well.
They are picky when it comes to O2 sensors.

Slap yours on, maybe you'll be ok.
Never know until you try it.

 

Well if nothing else I can try to reuse the originals as the fault code and visual observations point to the converter as the failure. I mainly ordered the replacement sensors in case I mangle one or can’t get it removed from the old cat due to corrosion.

 

Got my parts today but apparently I ordered the wrong midpipe between the cat & muffler. I assumed the shorter length was for ACLB/DCSB and the longer pipe was for DCLB but I guess I was wrong. Ordering a new midpipe.

Considering cutting rear tail section/tailpipe off to make a budget high clearance right after the axle crossover. Thoughts??

 

Why write your reply all caps? The OP’s Tacoma is 19 years old, possibly cannot get OEM parts. OP has no choice, have to go aftermarket.

 

I replaced the stock exhaust header with the LC Engineering Performance street header, which was more difficult than their YouTube installation video showed with a newer truck (with less corrosion to deal with). Thank you for posting that news about the Exhaust Hanger Removal Tool. We could have used that when replacing mufflers on '60s Ramblers in the '70s... (I ran a '67 VW Squareback, '66 Rambler 660 CrossCountry Wagon, '69 Squareback (fuel injection, JC Whitney exhaust header w/glass pack muffler, removing the heavy heater boxes with the stock exhaust made no difference in cabin heat, and mpg increased to the upper 30s with Michelin XZX radials), then my first new vehicle, the 1984 Toyota Longbed Deluxe (2wd, 4 cyl., 5 spd.) for winter commutes to Sitka via Prince Rupert BC and the Alaska Marine Highway System.
The LC Engineering Cat-back Pro Flow Exhaust is on hand for future replacement, and the front pipe only comes in one length, (measure 3x) and cut to fit shorter Tacos. https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Flow-Cat-Back-Exhaust-System-2TR-Tacoma-2005-p/1042025.htm

 

Yeah there’s no way I’d buy all of these exhaust components from OEM at 3-4x the price, not pouring unnecessary money into a free truck that’s 19yrs old. If I could afford that I’d have a much newer vehicle for my 7mile daily commute or I’d be paying someone to do it instead of learning something. If this repair lasts a year, then I’ll be able to re-register it as a historic vehicle, forgo emissions testing, just pull the f’ing CEL bulb out of the cluster, continue regular basic maintenance, and ride till it dies.

Aside from those who spend stupid $$ on “OoO” overbuilt occasional overlanding junk, most of us on this forum seem to be DIYers by necessity and practicality.

 

I used that same cat on my pickup when I got the 420 code. It worked just fine and is still going strong nearly 7 years and about 75 thousand miles ago.

 

Interesting, thanks for the feedback. Also ironic u have the same year and spec…

 

Aftermarket convertors are notorious for not being able to meet emissions standards for long, if at all. You're not just paying for the OE name, there are a lot of expensive precious metals in them that do the work; less palladium means lower cost and more emissions. Yes, I get it that it's an old truck, I have an '09, but you may be replacing the OE converter with something new that's actually worse.

 

Well, if I can pass ONE emissions test then I’ll have gotten my moneys worth and never have to revisit the issue…

 

Anyone know the torque spec for the oxygen sensors?

 

if it snows where youre at, thats why your truck is a rust bucket...
Salt from the roads....
No flood....
Ide start spraying your flange bolts with some bp blaster daily, now....
Little bit of smoke while your driving isn't going to kill you or start a fire...

Let that stuff do its thing, vs snapping bolts / studs. rounding bolts, etc...

 

I have all new hardware and planning on hacking the old system off. Have access to a full shop so I’ll torch the bolt off if I have to.

anyone know the o2 sensor torque spec??

 

Not off hand, but I'd buy a tin of anti-seize compound. I'm a big fan of Loc-tite for things that I don't want to come loose, and anti-seize for things I do.

 

Both sensors are pre-lubed, just gotta jam em in there.