Any woodworkers?

Perhaps he was messing with me.. regardless what would be the best way to seal the crack and shine seal the wood?

 

Correction: just looked it up, monkey pod.. not pox. My mistake.
So what would be the best way to fill the crack and seal shine the wood?

 

So what is monkey pod??

 

https://www.woodslabs.com/c-351-monkey-pod.aspx

 

I'd epoxy that crack, tape up the bottom and side and pour it in.

 

Have a recommendation on what kind of epoxy to use? So many to choose from

 

And yes monkey pod is a species of wood. Wear a dust mask when sanding it, some people are sensitive to it.

 

you don't need a lot, I just use devcon epoxy from Amazon. But any clear will do. 10 to 20 minute set time is good. Mix it in a disposable cup and pour it in slowly.

 

Will have to give it a go. As far as sealing and or shining the wood.. any simple recommendations I could possibly also add to the Amazon cart?

 

Well the sky's the limit. After sanding through the grits any clear finish will do. Spray on or brush on. Polyurethane is the most common. Waterbased or oil based.

 

Just bought a Tacoma and just found this thread. Turned my 25 year avocation into a vocation about 5 years ago. My website is https://www.morgenwoodwork.com if anyone is interested in seeing my work.

- Gary

 

Thank you for the recommendations

 

What are your thoughts on something like Seal-a-Cell to create a protective outer-skin of the wood? I used Seal-a-Cell and Arm-R-Seal for my rebuilt maple desk (30 years old, joints were getting loose and the polyurethane yellowed).

 

amazing work!
welcome!

 

@wilcam47 Thank you!

 

Very impressive portfolio of work! I will be asking you lots of questions in the future.

 

@DoubleB I'll look forward to doing my best to answer them!

 

I have not used seal-a-cell so I can't give an opinion on it. If you want an absolute clear finish water based polyurethane is the way to go.

 

My maple desk had the ugliest yellowing remnants of 30-year-old simple polyurethane, so I was experimenting. Worst was the attempts at staining because I could not get all back to base-maple and what was mostly back stained so inconsistently. seal-a-cell and arm-r-seal (looks good enough) dries only a little off clear.

On another note ... apparently poplar is a weak wood, especially when you cut a big part out of the center. But I learned more about using a router.

 

THANKS!!!

Pops