Long Travel BS Thread

I rebuilt mine years ago and implemented a bushing in that area. I'll say it worked since it worked for a long time but overall it didn't work since it pulled off the cab. I need to dig deep deep into a rebuild on the front end but I'm just lazy and don't feel like adding another project to my list of projects.

 

I think it would be a good idea, given you're not putting the bushing in shear or any other weird loading.

 

That pretty much what I expect as well. I will try to spread the forces out as much as possible, but not sure what I will be able to access without cutting out all of the cowl and HVAC inlet area. Probably just a band aid . . .

 

I think when I do it for real I'm going to isolate the hood, fenders and core/grill from the rest of the truck. build a core support to the frame that the radiator attaches to and subframe that back to catch the hood hinges and maybe the shock hoop. I think the key is everything on our trucks needs to move independently and unless you go full tilt you can't try to tie in the front to the rear.

 

That makes sense, I will see what I can come up with after I tear into everything. The hard part is done rebuilding the core, mounting just needs to be tweaked a little lol.

 

i spend so much of my commuting time thinking of ways to get the shocks or even just the reservoirs closer to something temp regulated like engine/transmission. Even besides dealing with the extreme cold and extreme heat it feels like one of the next steps in shock evolution to tie them into some kind of operating temp or temp regulatory system that's more efficient than the shock body parts alone.
On the fronts my resi's sit on the frame rails the way ADS originally did their oem fit shocks, but i moved them a few inches even closer to center of the truck in that spot because the space was there. That helped some but only helped - too much airflow around them and the shock itself still.
For the rear shocks i have no idea because the exhaust is too hot and not regular enough anyway. Nothing else back there really gets heated enough. My only thoughts there are like a little heat sink that backpacks off the diff and circulates something through lines out and around the shocks.
Lots of coolant lines from the radiator/engine/transmission could work but way down my list of priorities to get that complicated

 

Summer project arrived.



te cage kit and engine cage for @Coot83 truck. Should be starting late spring pending snow

 

Truthfully, with a good synthetic oil it’s really not much of an issue unless you get below 0. From 30* to 90* I don’t notice any change at all between warm and cold shocks.

 

Does anybody know why I have to press down the shift lock release button before shifting out of park in my truck, even when running?

Not sure if it's connected but I have ABS/TC/Collision/BRAKE lights on my dash. Lol

 

Should be connected to the brake lights, make sure you have brake lights. I'm sure there is a more technical response.

 

Brake pedal switch is bad.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nd-tc-dash-light-on-too.639169/#post-22053004

 

Thank you !

 

It could also be a blown fuse. I had a brake light wire that was rubbing the bed, shorting out and randomly blowing the tail light fuse. Which made me also have to Use the override switch to get out of park. But I also had no brake lights when it happened.

 

@SoonToBeOn39s im betting your issue is going to be similar considering the whole bed cage thing.

 

Getting some serious squat/lift from rear when putting it between drive and reverse...like an inch.

I thought axle wrap disappeared with sua?

 

Negative. I get a similar amount of wrap on my JD SUA. Lot of others setups deal with it as well. I think @snowsk8air2 went as far as to add an anti-wrap bar on his "DMZ upgraded" setup. Leafs gonna leaf.

 

Just making sure. Was never convinced by the "pros and cons" list of sua and axle wrap being a difference between that and soa

 

My axle wrap is extremely exacerbated by the fact I also have a Marlin Crawler Taco Box, so I have been working with Jesse at JD and they are working on a traction bar kit for our trucks. It was back burnered for a while, but Jesse let me know they are moving forward on it here shortly. If I put my truck in 4Lo/Lo, my rear end jumps up and twists and you can see the pinion rotating down as a result. If I were to get bound up at all, I would most likely be snapping ujoints in a heart beat.

Hopefully the kit will be available shortly. I plan on going up to JD Fab here in the next few days to talk to Jesse about a few things.

-Brian

 

Yes, last I heard about a week ago, that kit is into the design phase. Will be cool to see. When I was spring over with softer spring setups I had a great deal of wrap. Spring under or over, doesn't seem to matter. At the end of the day, leafs are stacks of sheet metal. In order for there to be compression, there must also be torsion, and for long travel applications we need as much compression as we can get (without going negative arch). But I'm no physicist. It's really impressive what leafs can do on a well-tuned truck given the composition.

 

I am at the point of just finding the next weak link to fix. Was out in Ocotillo this past weekend and I was bombing in some of the washes pretty hard and my drivers side tire ended up hitting my bypass resi. Definitely some wet noodle frame flex at play there. JD cycled all of my suspension many many times while the truck was in the shop, but hard to account for unknown amounts of frame flex. Jesse is also working on an engine cross brace that ties into the coilover towers, so I will be looking at putting one of those on, as long as it can clear a Magnuson SC that I am hoping to get installed this year. Also waiting on word from about the steering rack that JD is working with 74 Weld on. My 37's aren't very kind to the poor stock rack.

Definitely eyeing that TE Designs cage kit too.

-Brian