Sludge Concerns

I agree in regards to the carmax documentation means nothing at the end of the day, but its substantial...
You still side step the moisture / condensation.....
Op did state be just went on an extensive high mileage roadtrip, so you can say its build-up from short drives & engine not getting to temp,
or its normal cuz its a 1gr-fe engine, whatever that means.....
& the chunks on the dipstick......

 

^What, you think the OP didn't do any short drives after the 700 mile trip? You think he never let the oil cool down? Or he never went through any environment with high humidity? There's been enough reports posted on this forum of the 1GR-FE doing this since the inception of this forum 19 years ago, that TnShooter and I are able to say it's normal. 3rd gens with the 2GR have reported it too. Put a long filler neck on your 2010 and it'll do it too.

 

This is just a few of the reports on this site alone.
Lots more if you want to go off site.

Google......
It's NORMAL under certain circumstances.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sludge-on-inside-of-oil-fill-cap-tube.700708/#post-24822428


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yellow-sludge-inside-oil-fill-cap-normal.394061/#post-10882018



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...n-oil-fill-stem-and-cap.795757/#post-28511273


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yellow-slime-on-oil-cap-and-neck.265067/#post-6491908



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/foam-sludge-under-4-0l-oil-filler-cap.470892/#post-14195889

 

I see…

Observing what I can, on how to go forward. Truck runs well with no warning lights.

Thanks 3JOH. Cap doesn’t look great, but usually I do idle for a long time and take it easy with RPMs following cold starts. I am trying to make sense of what could trigger any issues on my part, but I’m not observing any destructive driving behaviors on my end at least (outside of 10k).

Very insightful info, thanks again. I’m ready to dismiss CM’s observations, if I don’t see anything else peculiar

Thanks again TnShooter. I didn’t drive the truck at all for 1 month from September 20 to October 21 and even longer from October 25 to December 6, as I went by plane then to help with my folks. Stolen catalytic converter kept it out of commission from mid June to July 10ish. Was driven for 4 days with it missing first week of June.

Other than my road trip in late December, I do drive it frequently in city/highway driving when at home and also sit idle for very long periods of time.

After the road trip, I did similar over here, which is a very hilly and mountainous area. Went from roughly 119k to about 120k in short drives over 3-4 weeks. Then asked these questions in preparation for my road trip.

Honestly, even though I’m open to sound advice, I’m going to steer clear of any posts which lean conspiratorial. Thank you in that respect, as I appreciate your good advice that doesn’t lean that way and is straight to the point.

Each time I start this truck, I wait a bit to let it idle and watch the temperature gauge to make sure I’m not gunning it until it has been running for 20 minutes (for long distance trips). This isn’t my first vehicle nor my first manual. I’ve never had any engine failures in any vehicle I’ve owned in my name since 2013 nor was this the case with the 2 automatics provided to me by my parents in the 2000s.

Some of the speculative (other) posts in this thread, in spite of the details I’ve already provided above, lean a bit over the top and keep reading into possibilities that don’t exist.

I don’t drive my truck recklessly and ignore maintenance entirely. I had to fix a lot of things on the truck when I bought it, because I wanted no stories. So other than waiting to 10k on the last oil change, replacing stolen catalytic converter, and replacing the clutch twice and transmission, I’ve been cautious up until this point.

Earlier in the thread, I explained my inbound road trip in detail. Going forward, I’m wiping down the dipstick and will check the oil on short drives and see the result. If there’s nothing of concern, I’m driving back home cautiously, breaking up my trip into long stops.

Sharing all this detail so you have a reasonable picture as well. Thanks again!

 

If this is accurate inregards to the moisture / intermix, I apologize....
obviously plenty of examples....
But that is absolute nuts.....

at the same time pic #2 & last doesnt show caked on oil build-up, the hard crusty dark stuff....
thats bad....
which is also on his dipstick,
Thats a sign of lack of proper maintenance, ive taken 1000's of engines apart...
Never seen intermix "milkshake" on any ford that would be considered "normal"

theres plenty of ford engines that recommend 10k oil change intervals & hands down we have seen plenty of customers do that & end result has been similar crusty oil accumulate, & legit sludge build-up, not the oil / water milkshake intermix....
bad / flawed maint plan...

 

I understand your perspective, but I am also beginning to wonder how much of this is the previous ownership history versus my 18 months of ownership as of this week? Out of 18 months, I’ve only driven this truck 10-12 months at best. Looking at the Carfax originally, even 4-5 owners if I recall. I’ve only done two synthetic oil changes since getting it.

Wasn’t the best buying experience either.

 

A lot of it has to do with engine design and moisture content of the air.
Humidity and temperature are the biggest factors.
Hot moist air rises. Given enough time and heat. It will correct it's self.
Long(er) hot engine drives keeps it from happening so much.

I see you are in San Diego.
I've never been there. But I have been to L.A. where it wasn't near as humid, or cold, as it is here in the East/North East.
Which might be why we see it more out our way.

 

You have 2 options.

1. Sell it and loose money.

2. Or drive it and "maybe" loose money.

I'm going with option 2.
No where in those two option did you see, worrying about it.
You can NOT worry about it at this point. Worrying about it fixes nothing.
And I'm not seeing any real reason to "worry".

 

Thanks for everything man! Verified that I’m good to go. Have a good weekend and thanks everyone.

 

4x4 = Slippping
Transmission = Good

Who ever did the inspection, doesn’t know how theses trucks works.
Or don’t know what an open differential is?

They don’t slip. They either work or they don’t.
The only way it can “slip” is through the transmission.
And it’s good…..

Take that quote a place in the trash can where it belongs.

 

The milkshake isn't unique to Toyota, more of a reflection of usage and operating enviroment. If there was water leaking i

I'd replace your PCV valve, they're cheap and help prevent that moisture buildup, change the oil and get it out on the highway and burn off some of the moisture in the engine. I agree with the others, the milkshake is a reflection of your recent use and environment (and possibly a bad PCV).

 

Not really sure why everyone else is ignoring the chunks of black on the dipstick
How sludged up do you have to get to have chunks on your dipstick? Or is that normal too?

OP, why did you block out the appraisal price?

 

im done here,
lots of guys much, much, smarter than me.....
major engine repairs is what I did for 32 years......
& just that, wasnt bumper to bumper....
ford master certified in engine repair & engine performance...

I know what your saying & I see all the evidence I need to see....