Home Improvement Today?

There are those who think they can learn from a demonstration. There is a reason apprenticeship is years before advancement. It's not that simple.

 

If you mean just come look at work you have done...yeah there are people who will do that for side money. Ive known a few people who have built shed or offgrid type stuff, done the wiring themselves, then had someone come behind them to "inspect" it before an actual inspection. They found the guys on facebook/craigslist (just make sure they are actually electricians) and cost wise just sort of depends on what it was

 

Stoopid cold temps…
House is fairly efficient and insulated but a budget basement finish job before I purchased it is translating to headaches in the form of frozen pipes. Previous homeowners had little boxes over holes by the pipe chases to let heat into the wall. Finally fixing that. And as a PSA, remember that the RH is a little low in a Northeast winter to allow spray foam to properly adhere/cure.

 

I left most of the appliances with the last house I sold, so I get to buy all new.

For now,

Speed Queen TR7 in matte black
Aquasure 64k softener, Aquasure 1,500,000 Fortitude Pro whole house filter, Aquasure R.O. System

My last softener was a 48k grain and a tad undersized with all the car detailing I like to do. I decided to up size to the 64k grain this time. A little more salt used and a little longer time between regeneration cycles, but worth it for the additional resin capacity imo.

It's a shame they'll be in storage for a short while longer, but I'm looking forward to unpacking it all and getting it set up soon.

 

Just checking in to say drywall sucks.

the end.

 

lol if you think drywall sucks, wait until mud time.

 

and pray it’s not smooth wall

 

+1. i would happily drywall al day every day for weeks if it means i never EVER need to sand drywall mud ever again. and i did 1 small bathroom.

 

that's from sanding!

if that's from mounting the drywall sheets, you're doing it wrong!

 

Well I was counting all of the steps from start to ready to paint as “drywall”

it all sucks.

 

$100 for a drywall sander is money well spent.

 

Agree, but some of those steps suck way more than others.

 

Recommendation for one?

 

...first thing is to properly insulate those band (/rim) joist cavities all the way around to counter what is called the 'stack effect'. ...cost effective diy could include batting, though I would first air seal those seams, whether with a small bead of sealant, or whatever, as if you don't, you can get colder air entering, and cause 'unseen' issues (mildew, mold, longer term water damage to rim and sill) behind later.

...another option could be to cut lesser thickness rigid foam pieces and use a block of wood and hammer, small sledge, whatever, to negotiate them snugly in to place, and which would also help to create an air stop, and follow with batting pieces.

....you could cut 2" foam pieces, which I believe are r-10, but those are a tedious, if snugly fit as would be the goal, to negotiate into place.

...if it is me, I want something I can remove if needed, as over time, water can enter, whether from entry area seams, deck to house, whatever, and it is good to be able to access if needed later... ...to better avoid that potential, remember around entry areas, more so, siding and trim are for aesthetics,but also for that outside waterproof envelope, so be sure to maintain those entry areas, more so, sealing, maintaining all outside entry areas seams, especially, as those are most often the source of unseen damage to the structure within those areas, over time.....
,

...and them do your walls, unfaced r-13 would probably be adequate in a 2" x 4" cavity, and covered with face stapled poly (plastic sheeting, 4 or 6 mil) vapor barrier.

...around windows, you could either cut narrow strips of fiberglass and use a putty knife and work it in, filling those seams, though not over-packing it, or, if you'd rather, non expanding foam, but be careful, and don't open windows until cured....

...regarding the ceiling, you're call if living space only above, and in that scenario, sound proof would be your benefit if you chose. ..

 

Plumbing question:
I’m running a pvc shower drain. Can I add 2” to the 90* elbow running to the vertical connecting to the P trap? I haven’t been able to find any ‘code’ on this…

 

you need to add 2" between the trap and the drain flange? yes, you can do that

 

Pics or a diagram would help clarify. If your talking about running a 2" riser piece between the trap 90 and the traps 180 bend then yes you can. Doing that would lower the finished drain height by 2". Doing what @CraigF suggested would raise the finished drain height by 2". I think your talking about the first but it's hard to tell. lol

 

I need to add 2” from the 90 to the trap. The Kerdi shower drain drops 3-4” below the floor.

 

I do not understand "90 to the trap"