Brice's NA V6 Build

I'm digging that stock exhaust.

 

This isn't a great pic but I finished last night around 11:30. Truck runs! It still smokes a little but I think it's residue in the cat.

 

Well I had a chance to drive the thing around today and other than some flat spots in the tires its good! Im very happy to be able to drive this again.
As far as power and stuff goes it feels pretty normal till it revs up past 4500 or so then it feels like it has alot more than it did before, but the auto trans shifts at like 5500 so I cant help but assume im missing out. It feels like its has alot left in it past that. Tomorrow I plan to get it insured and and button up a few things here and there so I can safley take it in for an inspection so I can register it and make it my DD again.

Here's a short video of it runnin. It does clatter a bit due to some loose-er valve clearances, but they aren't crazy out.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FwOZS_7yzuo

 

Dude, that sounds perfectly smooth! A well done indeed.

 

Did the AFR gauge start working properly? Couldn't tell by the time that you got out of the truck.

 

No, it flickers and acts very strange at start up. The display itself moves around alot and is hard to read. I'm not sure if its the sensor or the gauge but either way the sensor is well over 5 years old at this point. It also reads less than 20:1 at WOT which straight up cant be true

 

It's the gauge then. I just dealt with the same issue.

https://rumble.com/v5kgo11-wideband-gauge-malfunction.html

It was easier to just buy a new gauge with sensor, than to try to get the gauge alone. Plus, you'll potentially have a good spare sensor.

The good news about it, is that it is all plug n play with your existing wiring job.

 

Well that's good to know. I'll definitely need a new one, and now I wont waste money on a sensor first lol.

 

I seem to attract electrical gremlins.

So my dash lights were going out so I replaced them with warm white LED's. I also replaced the red led lights behind the AC controls with 2 incandescent lights.

Ok so in doing that I shorted one of the incandescent bulbs in the AC control area. I, like an absolute fool, went to replace the 10 amp gauge fuse. Problem is I didn't have any 10 amp fuses...so I used a 20 amp fuse...without fixing the short...

Basically the 20 amp didn't pop but the dimmer switch let something out and is toast. I bridged the connection basically putting the gauge cluster at 100% brightness all the time, problem is my low fuel light and battery light stay on constantly. My blinkers also kill the truck and the battery doesnt seem to be charging all the time.

This is totally my fault and really easily avoided but alas. The truck isn't popping any fuses and the voltage is definitely dropping for some reason, I think I may have shorted something in either the ECU or the dash itself.

Anyway if anyone has fucked up like this before and fixed it lemme know! Otherwise the truck runs great lol.

 

I saw mention of Camry cams. Did that happen?

 

It did! Currently in the truck and running good.

 

Whats the summary? Worth?

 

We just put a set in the drag trucks heads as well. But we're going to play around with degreeing them cuz that whole engine's purpose is to make power up high and run out past 7,000 RPM

 

It definitely gives a boost to the overall rev range especially towards the top end. Unfortunately the 3vzfe can make power at like 1.1k beyond what the 5vz can so it feel like it runs out early at the stock 5.5k rev limit. Still feels better than stock though.

EDIT: I do have ported heads and manifolds, but it shouldn't make that big a difference.

 

If you have the Camry springs in it you should be able to rev it out once you lift your rev limiter to 6800 at least

 

I have the dual valve springs from LCE so I should be good for 8k according to them. If I go from a 16mhz crystal on the ECU processor to a 20mhz, I should have a 6850rpm redline.

 

Hmm... That's shocking that that's all that would change

 

I was kind of noodling that over too. There's got to be other things that clock signal is being used for.

 

You're likely correct. Not sure what's gonna go weird with it yet, but im sure ill find out.

I will be datalogging with obd2 to determine what could be weird.

 

That would be cool to know I suppose.