Died and Limped Home - 2023 TRD OR 4x4 w 15k ODO

I've had my Icom 2730A installed in my truck since shortly after I bought it in June of 2020. The install is in that thread as well. I doubt that your ham radio had anything to do with whatever happened. in the clean install thread there are plenty of people who have installed radios and I don't know of anyone who has problems.

That said, a couple of thoughts.

If that added fuse is for the radio power, I'd recommend going directly to the battery. Make sure the ground cable has a good connection and that the antenna mount is also grounded well.

That's if you decide to put it back in when this is all sorted out.

 

I’ve been watching in the wings on this with my popcorn.

Some electronics do carry different superimposed commands, that being said; there is a chance that if your HAM radio is the culprit it’s because your ecu and ham share the same loose ground? However if your HAM was interfering with your ecu wouldn’t you have other issues? IDK it seems like a weak fuel system pressure and or failing injectors.

 

He makes an excellent point; a floating ground, and/or ground loops from bad connections can play all sorts of hob with electronics, and can be damned hard to pin down. Don't ask me how I know.....

 

Nope...

Ground could be an issue. I'm willing to accept that and look deeper. It is currently grounded to the same connection the fuse panel is grounded to.
But, would the Ham Radio have to be powered on for that to be an issue? That would create the need to return power to the ground. If it's off, it's off.

 

Here are the Dealership Service Notes. Going Chronologically from the original complaint in December (it failed 11/29).

 

Here are the most recent Dealership Service Notes after the complaint to Toyota Corporate.







It's interesting that this one stats the claim on the 18th and ends on the 18th when I dropped it off for service on the 12th (Service Closed) and the "diagnostics" were done on Monday the 13th. Then it sat on the parking lot until the 17th when I picked it up and they closed out the paperwork on the 18th.

 

It's interesting they they don't mention the specific codes, didn't seem to check coils and plugs. I escalated it to corporate and asked why they didn't check coils and plugs. Dropped it off for the second trip with a corporate complaint and asked if they were going to do more than clear codes and drive - like check coils and plugs. And after all that all they did was just blame the radio. I'd feel way more comfortable with the radio diagnosis if I saw some actual mechanical work. Nothing superfluous.

Tell me if I'm crazy here but if I was the mechanic (and I'm not that's why I'm asking non-rhetorically) I would have checked:

• Battery
• Alternator
• Spark Plugs
• Coil Packs
• Compression Test
• Belt Tension

All of that in addition to the fuse tap.
Instead all I see is:

• Cleared Codes
• Drove to Starbucks
• Inappropriately diddled the mans floor mats

BTW - The floor mats go in for Therapy starting on Monday. Would appreciate your thoughts and prayers as they are in a dark place right now.

 

I for one am glad that your floor mat is properly installed.

 

That rug really tied the room together.

 

The CAN Bus network is what is running off 5v. The guy is correct. The electronics are very sensitive, and it doesn’t take much to introduce noise into the system, especially anything ham/cb radio related. Fuse taps are always a poor idea. At the very least isolate the circuit with a relay

 

I must be missing something besides a few chromosomes, as I do not recall the OP disturbing the CAN bus in any way. Any noise on the 12 volt bus introduced by a radio is pretty much going to be decoupled/filtered by that giant capacitor known as the battery. The CAN bus has it's own well-filtered and regulated power supply. Special attention has been paid to filtering out cross-talk from the adjacent 12 volt paths. In short, unless the OP's radio had a poorly-coupled 10KW transmitter, there is no reasonable way that little transceiver is causing these problems, unless someone can make the argument that a few watts of radiated power is somehow to blame? (Any vehicle radio has to abide by some very stringent RF emission guidelines.)

@OP, did your radio have a Yagi or a wave-guide directing the RF output at the ECU?

Anyway, I don't come here to argue, so I'll just show myself to the door,

 

I have similar MPGs in stop and go traffic. What do you get in straight fwy driving? Say 65 mph for an hour. Just curious.

 

Arguably that's a small sample size but usually about in the 15 to 17 range.
I work from home but do go into the office once a day. I live a mile from the free way and work is a mile from the free way. Between us is 12 miles.

That's mostly where and how I drive. Traffic flows at about 80 to 85 and I just get in the right lane and set cruise at 75. Posted is 65 for most of that trip. It's a little bit down hill going in and a little bit up hill coming home.

Here's a trip I took under similar circumstances. Set cruise at 65 for a 20 minute trip mostly level ground and light traffic.

 

If we're comparing, thats my MPG with lift, Supercharger, 4.88 gears and Tires.

 

The floor mat thing is due to the “unintentional acceleration” thing Toyota suffered through about 15 years ago.

The determination was that improperly installed floor mats caused the gas pedal to get stuck. I had to bring my 2010 in for a recall to have the gas petal shortened.

Now, every time you bring your vehicle into a dealer for service, they check the floor mats.

In my experience, they are getting a bit more lax in this though. In the past I remember always finding my drivers side Weathertech in the bed of the truck. The dealer would not release the truck to me with the aftermarket mat installed due to liability.

 

Just confirms how retarded the majority of the population is.

 

I’m curious what your mpg would be for just the trip to work. Specifically when you turn the key off and before you open the door, what does the summary say in the center of your gauge cluster. I have a very similar drive to you and in the winter I get about 18-19mpg most days when there is no wind. But there are many days that it reads in the 15-16mpg range. I’m 100% stock. Probably the best test for you would be a few hour drive. In good weather I can average around 20-21mpg on long trips.

 

Not to be a tin foil hatter, but wasn't that around the time that Toyota was going through massive layoffs and restructuring? It wouldn't take much for some disgruntled engineer to introduce a bug into the cruise control software and override the electronic accelerator and braking system when certain parameters triggered it.

 

My personal hypothesis aligns more with @auskip07 above - ignorant people being ignorant.

I’d also add that I suspect the “unintentional acceleration” issue was amplified by the intense news media coverage at the time, as evidenced by the rapid increase in claims after the media blitz.

Here is the wiki page on the massive recall and investigation at the time: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009–2011_Toyota_vehicle_recalls

The TL/DR version is: 1) the unintentional acceleration case cost Toyota $1.2B to make it go away and 2) Car and Driver proved you could stop a 2007 Camry with a locked open throttle going 100 MPH using just the brake pedal.

 

All you have to do is go to your local food court. You dont even need to speak to anyone, just watch all the people chewing with their mouth open. case closed.