Cab mount chop and still rubs

I still rub a little with this cab mount chop (chalk tested) you see it towards the edge of the chopped part. Is this normal? At least for this much of a chop? lol

It happens on full lock.

 

What caster are you running?

 

Not sure of the exact number but it is positive caster due to my aftermarket ball joint UCAs. 285/70r17 0 offset

 

It's honestly not enough of a cab mount chop, that's the issue. Not my picture, but typically guys go 3.5in out from the frame, it looks like your chop is half the length of a normal one (and how much I cut).

 

Aftermarket UCAs which increase caster do not push your wheels away from the cab. You still need to increase caster at the LCA.

 

Take it almost all the way to the hole. If it’s rubbing on flat ground it’s going to rub way worse hitting a dip or a hole going downhill in a corner. You can crank your LCA bolts to max and push the lower ball joint forward and correct it with the UCA and tie rods. I did this and don’t rub in 35x10.5 Kendas with 2.5” lift and -10 offset. I gutted the fender liners to clear up top.

 

The chalk test indicates that I only rub on full lock in reverse. I will probably keep it like this til I get more funds to do another bigger chop. lol if I go off roading it would only be on fire roads which will be in moderate to a lil bit of high speed runs (no sharp/full lock turns)

 

HF grinder and cut off wheel is probably $20. The plate is mostly cosmetic if it becomes a problem before you find some scratch.

 

That's pretty typical for when you'd rub, it simulates an off-road articulation as much as one could on the street. it really won't hurt all that much, but it needs more chop to not rub, that's all

 

I do like the idea. I need to have somebody that is good with the tool before pulling the trigger. I cannot trust myself on doing it since I’ve never messed with that type of tool/work. Taking it to the shop cost so much for labor. It sucks. 20 bucks is unbeatable

 

I totally get it. Way back when my truck was new I didn’t think I would be taking a grinder to it for a CMC. Decided that wasn’t to bad and hole sawed two 3” holes in the front fender for a snorkel. Also didn’t think I would have cut the back off for a HC bumper. Then went all in and cut off my factory suspension mounts and swapped in Chevy 63’s and a shock relocate. Baby steps until eventually the new wears off.

 

What do you mean about it simulates an off road articulation? When on full lock in reverse? Yeh as long as I’m not rubbing on daily street driving. I’ll keep it like this for now.

 

I like the progress you have made to your rig. I’ll take those baby steps til I get the setup I want and need.

 

That has to be one of thr most mild cmc's iv ever seen. It's not cut back far enough at all.

This was clearenced for more tire and offset but that's what i would expect out of anyone offering a chop. Make some real space. Hope you didn't pay much for that.

As others have stated get a high caster alignment. It's possible to clear that set up most of the time without a chop.

 

Just stop dicking around and get a cab mount relo. That's the best way to go. Then after, go ahead and beat down the pinch weld. Clearance for days!

 

Bro! They treated my cab mount as if it was a plastic trim. They pretty much nibbled on it. It clears but I doubt it would clear an aggressive angle/articulation. I’ll probably stick with the cmc but more aggressive cut.

 

Update: I did another chalk test attempt and I noticed that the marking on my first attempt was a water drip mark. lol I don’t rub at all but it’s pretty close for comfort. I will chop some more in the future tho. Thanks for all the feedback guys! I might end up going for the relocate kit once my truck is paid off and go 35’s.

 

You have a very mild CMC, trimming farther in toward the frame(with a longer cap plate, ours are 6" for example) and farther back toward the firewall/body mount bushing will be enough to clear 33s easily and even 35's. I've even fit 37s with firewall tubbing and a more aggressive CMC, no cab mount relocation kit needed. In fact, the cab mount is an integral safety item designed into the frame to prevent tire intrusion into the floor of the cab, a full cab mount relocation defeats that design so thats something to keep in mind.

 

Man I wish you guys were closer to my area. The guy that did mine looked pretty scared to even go further in the chop. I guess I rushed it too much and trusted the wrong person for the job. The closest one around my area that specializes with tacomas is at least 3 hours away.

 

Do you think a 4 inch maxtrac spindle would clear it better since it pushes the knuckle further out? But that means I have to set my coilovers to stock height.