What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

I agree with this statement.

 

Changed rear differential, front differential and transfer case fluids early at 16k miles. Thanking Team Oil Drop for their vids.

Rear had a little sludge but
Front diff was darker and sludgier than expected. Glad I changed early. Transfer Case fluid looked brand new.


Used Mobil 1 Synthetic GL5 gear oil 75w90 is both diffs. Used OEM Toyota liquid gold in the Transfer Case.


Changed the front diff drain and fill plugs from Toyota 10mm Allen head to the Lexus 14mm bolt heads. Note that the Lexus drain plug is shorter than the Toyota version, but I counted the threads in the diff house and confirmed that the Lexus drain plug is not too short. Good to go but will share if I notice any leaks.

Pics are Front diff sludge and the Toyota vs Lexus front drain plugs

 

I ha

I have a 2019 as well and got this done awhile back and I didn’t have any leaks or moisture prior. They did a good job and still no leaks or moisture. just make sure to check the outside around the light and make sure the inside headliner is fastened correctly and straight. Look around the top and sides of the rear sliding window. Take note of what it looks like before and after.

 

In my case they can remove the old light then forget to install the new one. Call you to tell you its going to take a day longer than originally told (no biggie) then forget to install it and give you a free wash without installing the light then make you wait another day so it can dry out before they actually install it.

 

So the spin on filters have anti-drain back valves. So when the engine is off, oil is retained in the filter and when you start up it goes right back to the engine. When I’ll change the oil, I’ll simply loosen the filter to release the vacuum which allows the oil to flow out of it into the lines and back to the pan. There is legitimately ZERO mess involved.

I had no issues with the stock Toyota cartridge filter and it too, I could change without a mess, however it is a more time consuming process.

My reason for doing this is two fold:
1. Convenience; I can now change my oil without ANY tools. I just put the Fumoto hose on the Fumoto valve nipple and drain the oil straight into the recycle jugs. Then spin on a new filter, add oil and I’m done. It’s now a 5 min job.
2. Access; I have a BAMF trilogy which I’ve been dreading installing since the front skid would have to be dropped for every oil change (over 80lbs of steel). Now, I don’t have to remove it.

So it depends on your use case. It’s definitely not a mod for everyone nor is it a necessity; more of a nice to have. For my purposes, I love it so far and hope to enjoy it for years to come!

 

My 2020 Tacoma didn't come with a oil cooler. I ran some new 3/8 lines and installed a Mishimoto transmission oil cooler and in line filter.

 

I finally found a Smartcap close to home.

 

oil filter might have a valve in it

 

the tacoma already has one from the factory

but here is another idea


and ...........
welcome to TW

 

@RIX TUX Mine didn't come with one from the factory it was just using the engine radiator as a cooler.

Nice, Thank you!

 

yes it does, its hard to notice

 

is the after market cooler for motor oil or tranny?

 

@RIX TUX tranny

 

ok i thought you were adding another oil cooler

 

Its all good bro, i might add an engine oil cooler in the future tho. it doesn't get too hot here

 

Changed the oil for my first time on this truck. Went smooth since, well.... it's changing the oil. Added a long nipple Fumoto drain valve and used the OEM filter element kit.

Holy shit though, whoever torqued the oil filter housing before me- it felt like they used a damned impact gun to put it on. Took an inordinate amount of strength to break it free, had to use a breaker bar. I've read that the stock plastic one can expand a bit and become real tough to get off when warm, so maybe that's what happened. Used the Motivx oil filter housing tool, and the little drain tool which was pretty clutch. Made sure to lube the new o-rings, ensure proper seating, checked for leaks, and off I went.

Used Penzoil Platinum, 6 quarts even, skipped the .2. Filled the housing before reinstalling too since I made it a habit on my last car (2010 Forester). Used a torque wrench on the housing so it isn't so damned hard to get off next time. Torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft/lb, so I just went real easy on the plug on the bottom of the housing.

Good stuff.

 

There's this too. Little expensive for what it is but, I got one.

$41 Lisle 61860 Torque Adapter, 25 Nm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CYQ96KHT

 

What the Fuck is going on here! I don't even know where to start! Is this a rando pic or someone you know who needs serious help?!

 

Yes sir

 

Yeah…. what’s with the model airplane engine on the hood?