Milwaukee Tools

Question for you all:

I have an M12 drill 2504-20. I do handyman work so it gets used often. It's a workhorse but one complaint is that when I am drilling with a paddle bit around 1" and on speed 2 (the fastest) and with the dial set to drill, it will sometimes just shut off under load. I release the load and it will work again after letting go of the switch and powering it up again. I've read the manual and can't find anything about shutting down when to load gets too great. On speed 1 (the slowest and lower gear mode) it will power through the wood. I'm always drilling holes in studs to run 12-2 or 14-2 wire and like the faster speed. Is there an official limit to the torque ft/lbs where it shuts off?

Update:

Sorry, I found it.

Battery Pack Protection
To protect the battery from damage and extend its
life, the tool’s intelligent circuit monitors current draw,
temperature, and voltage drops.
In extremely high torque, binding, stalling, and short
circuit situations that cause high current draw, the
fuel gauge will flash, and then the tool will turn OFF.
To reset, release the trigger.
Under extreme circumstances, the internal tem-
perature of the battery could become too high. If this
happens, the fuel gauge will flash and the battery
pack will shut off. Let the battery pack cool and then
continue work.

 

Not sure what batteries you are using but the larger XC or newer CP batteries will help a lot. For heavy stuff like that I only use those battery types or else I fight what you described.

 

If you want to go fast with a bit larger then 1/2 you should go to a 18V drill

 

+1 if you're using it a lot like that, first-best option is to get an 18v drill instead. The 3.0+ batteries are better designed for larger loads like that.

If that's not an option, make sure you're using the M12 4.0, 6.0, or best-case, the new high output 5.0. you're still going to have problems as part of the battery voltage/sizing, but it'll give it the best chance.

 

I'm using an XC 4.0 in the drill and use the smaller CP 2.0 in the driver. They are both about 3+ years old and both still charge to 4 lights. I can nearly drywall a small room with the driver on the small CP 2.0 battery. They are amazing. I was just wanting to make sure that the drill wasn't going out but that stopping under a hard load was normal. Thanks for the comments.

 

Zoro is doing thing right now

https://www.zoro.com/shop/milwaukee-deals-promotions/

 

FYI, all batteries will fully charge.

As they degrade with time/use, you'll notice increasingly shorter run times between full and half charge. There won't ever be a point where they only charge to halfpower

 

Decent deal if you return the 5 ah battery

Also I pulled this from somewhere else, I’m not Jose.

 

These batteries not balancing might come as a shock to some, but there’s actually a lot of videos of guys pulling different tool batteries apart and finding issues in cell balancing. Im talking YEARS before this video ever came out.

https://youtu.be/wG6W3hz8NMQ?si=hN2tTRia2n6lqp3_

 

i hadn't heard of it before, but putting the pieces together, it makes sense.

they're not monitoring the individual cell voltage, just batches of cells, so the cells-per-batch will naturally drift away from a balanced charge.

 

Seen that a few days ago, don’t know what country he’s in and if Milwaukee designs differently in other places but those batteries look fake.

 

Yeah, that’s what the batteries look like in the rest of the world
No idea why they have different designs

 

Global market. Same with dewalt batteries, except they make Dewalt put 18v on them. I guess the global market doesn’t know the difference between nominal discharge and max charge, but I digress.

Either way, thats beside the point. There’s a decade worth of information, including from the US that have similar information about cell balance..or rather the lack there of.

edit: I will add, Dewalt will actually do a top off charge if you throw it on the charger before using. It usually last a minute or less.

Milwaukee on the other hand, if it’s green it’s green. Doesn’t matter if the battery has been sitting for 4 months.

 

I did that for a Traeger once I got at Home Depot. Something happened and it became electrified. It was a while ago, so I don’t remember, but it was something in the DC inverter, when I pulled it apart to see why I was getting shocked.

They did a no receipt exchange. But, they don’t do them for tools because of abuse. I’m thinking the localities have control over that policy probably.

 

I'm repairing and rebuilding some large screen porch inserts (screens) for a customer. Basic 1x4 frame (52" tall x 44" wide) with screen stapled on the flat (inner edge). That is covered with a 1/2" x 1/4" half round trim. It's held in place with 3/4 crown staples.

I don't think my M12 stapler will cut it. Going to pick up the M18 crown stapler for the job.

I'll still use the M12 (T50) to attach the screen to the 1x4 frame.