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Clutch wont disengage after full clutch replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by machineTech, Feb 9, 2025.

  1. Feb 9, 2025 at 6:44 PM
    #1
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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    2006 tacoma, V6, 4.0 4x4, TRD, manual, 319K miles
    Had to do a rear main seal. Replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing while I was in there. Got it all back together and after bleeding the clutch I can't get it into gear. I can feel the syncros pushing the truck forward when I go for first gear. With the slave cylinder cover plate removed I can see that I am getting full stroke or what looks like full stroke out of the slave cylinder and it feels normal. Slightly easier as I greased everything when I was in there. When I have the clutch depressed there is about 1/4 of inch from the rotating pressure plate and the throw out bearing arm that is pushed on by the slave cylinder. The clutch is an Aisan CKT-057. The pressure plate looks slightly different than the one that came out. I have three things in my head that could possibly be wrong enough to cause this. 1) the flywheel was machined wrong and there is not enough of a step to give clearance. 2) the clutch kit is wrong. 3) there is some adjustment or bleeding procedure that I didn't do correctly. Any thoughts. I really don't want to pull that all apart again.
    machineTech
     
  2. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:02 PM
    #2
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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  3. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:26 PM
    #3
    Tacowrench

    Tacowrench Well-Known Member

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    Just throwing this out there - did you leave the trans in neutral when you pull it out? If not, could be stuck in gear. If you did, then the parts may not be correct. Either way, too bad for all the work you did.
     
  4. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:30 PM
    #4
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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    I did leave it in neutral when I removed it. When the engine is off I can shift through all the gears no worries. My biggest worry is that if I take it all apart I still don't know what is wrong and how to fix it.
     
  5. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:32 PM
    #5
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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    Is there a way that one could possibly mis-assemble the throwout bearing to throw arm that would then make it shorter and not give enough throw?
     
  6. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:42 PM
    #6
    Tacowrench

    Tacowrench Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you did everything correctly. I don't think it's the flywheel - turning only makes it true and better contact with your clutch. Can't comment on the bleeding, not sure what could go wrong there. Unfortunately, you may have to remove all and compare new parts with the old. Maybe someone else can chime in. Good luck.
     
  7. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:45 PM
    #7
    Tacowrench

    Tacowrench Well-Known Member

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    Anything is possible. If the throw out bearing is not engaging the pressure plate - may be the issue.
     
  8. Feb 9, 2025 at 7:53 PM
    #8
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    If you're confident the slave is moving a normal distance and the clutch fork is pushing the release bearing.. then it's not a hydraulic problem. The problem has to be the clutch unit itself
     
  9. Feb 10, 2025 at 5:45 AM
    #9
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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    Can the throw out arm be put in backwards, flipped end for end? It was out on the floor for awhile.
     
  10. Feb 10, 2025 at 6:54 AM
    #10
    Tacowrench

    Tacowrench Well-Known Member

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    Generally not, it needs to make contact with the slave cylinder rod. Enclosed is a pic. I was looking at your images. The pressure plates look different (maybe because it's a different manufacturer), not a biggie, as long as the levers/fingers have the same distance to the plate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2025
  11. Feb 10, 2025 at 6:59 AM
    #11
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The clutch cover doesn't really look the same at all, yes they can look different and still have the same application.. but the new one looks really different

    Any chance the friction disc was installed upside down? :anonymous:
     
  12. Feb 10, 2025 at 7:05 AM
    #12
    Tacowrench

    Tacowrench Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, here's the pic

    2nd Gen.jpg
     
  13. Feb 10, 2025 at 7:08 AM
    #13
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    Pretty much impossible to accidentally install the fork backwards

    Again, the amount of slave cylinder throw is going to tell you if the problem is inside the bell-housing or not..
     
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  14. Feb 10, 2025 at 9:56 AM
    #14
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I have seen where someone installed a clutch disk in backwards and when reassembled it would never release the clutch. Wasn't a Tacoma, but....
     
  15. Feb 10, 2025 at 10:02 AM
    #15
    OpeCity

    OpeCity Well-Known Member

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    Clutch disc is backwards or the TOB is a different thickness from pad to pad from stock imho
     
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  16. Feb 10, 2025 at 3:33 PM
    #16
    machineTech

    machineTech [OP] Member

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    The clutch plate has a tall side and a short side. The tall side is installed toward the flywheel into the depression. The difference is subtle. Now you have me second guessing it.
     
  17. Feb 10, 2025 at 3:39 PM
    #17
    kidthatsirish

    kidthatsirish Well-Known Member

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    :popcorn:i imagine my clutch will come soon enough....best of luck my friend.
     
  18. Feb 10, 2025 at 3:49 PM
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    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The tall side (with the dampener springs) sticks up into the pressure plate
     
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  19. Feb 11, 2025 at 9:42 AM
    #19
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I think that is backwards....
     
  20. Feb 11, 2025 at 10:14 AM
    #20
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    On my old Audi a new pressure plate (SAC self adjusting clutch) has to be reset first, on a press.
    I don't think this applies to Tacomas though. Could be wrong.

    There's multiple things that can go wrong. Including but not limited to:
    -disc installed backwards

    If you bleed it, do a pressure bleed. If not, not sure what to tell you.
     

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