What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Usually if the paint is getting to the point where it’s fading and the clear coat is fubar…it’s just time to have it repainted. My truck is in need of a paint job as well.

 

Not really a mod but for me a super cheap trick.. All the normal grease zerk covers just didnt seem to work/stay on. Turns out you can use the rubber bleeder screw caps. Works like a charm even on the ones on the u-joint zerks. They are even advertised as being used for this purpose. About 50 cents each or less

https://www.amazon.ca/Wedcool-Caliper-Accessories-Waterproof-Dust-Proof/dp/B0D2PXPR5S?crid=3ODQ4A0M7I276&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cFysgsYVtwY8i4xAfXpsgdYzItVzdZdd5_-zRQt0dcIKP6Qwb-fxzZa-eaNqWEItgW9CCXREmMsjdNU-hUExQlnxv6PKveDQG-de2JwvwJM.H33FrCPrduQwhzEHO5-I86JTKKHLI-rZTBfAy-d4v4Q&dib_tag=se&keywords=Wedcool+18+PCS+Rubber+Dust+Cover&qid=1739228761&s=automotive&sprefix=wedcool+18+pcs+rubber+dust+cover%2Cautomotive%2C139&sr=1-1

 

Yeah that’s what I was afraid of. Just really pricey so I was trying to find some sort of DIY. Maybe even raptor line the whole truck.

 

I use this. And its OK to use moly here since u joints are not a high speed bearing.

$14 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.ca/Valvoline-SynPower-Synthetic-Automotive-Grease/dp/B000CQ4DK0?crid=2HXQ8XEKUEJQR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.XDu5lHnAqunowoXY2otkVmPA5LvYjZvtVKqgg7mYQ9dAHtRx2RsQhdZvrnrjcUcfGUIdajltKC71Pw3NPCbYesR4UlRbvZDprcSFatSgiQkiTjZNo6dOgxLf9i9aLXnr656Xa1Ln_AEgNBhd66XIhaFQ2k4P_ElqXJCuKaIz4s75BZL4XBPLbpsxatzqYXrBqjKpT_BQWq55heNeFCrH9AK_CwiqQxJMc1K3Br1Z7tgD8Ad--Xjp4AuaZF6H9-ctkcFJXTW8xHBLLkUMADCor4TsoEjlglNTNF3R4krikrX3fYPGOxlC0jFn7PolQ-UE36dpKkjJha5TEcvAGCEiXw7-joC_ze2T_rbUM6eGI1E.m52li9UtKrNVOs3baGv2AuGVWNOCeN9wX7796tv6u1I&dib_tag=se&keywords=valvoline+grease&qid=1739230151&s=automotive&sprefix=valvoline+grease%2Cautomotive%2C87&sr=1-1&th=1

 

also nice if you have a truck cap that can occasionally push the bed sides out away from the tailgate.

 

Fun fact: the top of the tailgate is narrower than the bottom of the tailgate, making it look like the bedsides have spread even when they haven't. I'm not saying don't get bed stiffeners though.

 

Hey guys, I'm just looking for recommendations on pricing this. Kind of unique. I just need to invest more money into my business. I started last year at the moment.

I'm putting the feelers out there. 2008 Toyota Tacoma, 2tr-fe 5 Speen manual 200k miles
Full skids and sliders
5:29 gears
Rear arb air locker
Onboard air w/ tank
Custom bobbed bed 12" removed from rear frame
35" open country and Mickey Thompson MT tires
C4 front bumper with smittybilt x20 winch synthetic rope wireless remote.
Just replaced suspension Bilstein 6112s in the front fox 2" in the back.
Also replaced all ball joints and brand new steering rack OEM
Archive garage hammer hangers with old man emu heavy leaf pack.
Does need some love on the engine. Leaks oil and coolant. I also have a 06 Volkswagen TDI enginewith a colt stage 2 cam shaft a tuned ECU i was planing to swap. Wouldn't mind input on pricing.... Case

 

Put some wheels from a 2023 Tacoma on my 2015.

 

Cleaned up my headlight lenses with Maguires headlight polish. Makes a big difference driving at night.

 

Over the past 3 weeks. Replaced center carrier besring and U-Joint. Broke drive shaft while doing so.
Replaced drive shaft.
Replaced driver side wheel hub bearing assembly and upper and lower ball joints.
Today replaced passenger side wheel hub. Next is passenger upper and lower ball joints.

 

I feel like I have to ask, how did you break a driveshaft doing U-Joints and Carrier Bearing?

 

Try youtube. There's a ton of information on how to fix damaged clear coat and paint. It's a lot of work but sandpaper, paint and clear coat is pretty cheap.

 

Still scratching my head on how this even happened, but the interior passenger door handle locking switch broke. Not a cheap part either

 

XXX NSFW !!! Excited for you

 

Give it a try.

Looking at this one, and comparing it to yours…this seems like it would work.

I just found this on AliExpress: C$14.69 | Inside Inner Door Handle For Scion tC 2005-2010 and Toyota Matrix Corolla 2003-2008 Front Rear Left Right 69206-02090 6920502090
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqN1kjZ


I just found this on AliExpress: C$24.87 | WOLFIGO New Interior Door Handle Chrome and Black Left Right Side 69206-02090 69205-02090 for Toyota Corolla Matrix Scion TC
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrCN2xp

 

Once you have the exhaust components installed, would you be able to post a video with a driving sound clip? I'm interested to hear what that setup sounds like under load/acceleration. I've always wanted to try their headers, but concerned with the rasp output. I'm assuming URD made their exhaust + headers to work and sound well together.

I did not enjoy the cam gear install on my truck because of the secondary air system, but there was a noticeable bump in power, even being NA and untuned. Since you'll be in there, it's worthwhile.

One recommendation I'll make is find a different, more secure, way to tap into an accessory power for your SC coolant pump. The tap and location they provide gave me a lot of problems down the line, that I won't get into.

 

I have the full spec u system, including headers on my 2011. Its really not super loud. Minimal drone and very civilized under normal driving. Way quieter then my other truck that has DT long tubes, DT y-pipe, and urd mk3 cat back

 

@GearHead899 Just realized this is you lol

Love the sound of your truck man!

https://youtube.com/shorts/apZGwkoNmrA?feature=shared

 

Yes sir! Thanks man. I do like the sound of the spec U but wish it was a little bit louder. I feel like eventually I may swap the muffler for a valvetronic

 

Hi there - I just posted this in the second gen forum. It looks like you might have had an ECM and blower resistor issue too. Might you be able to elucidate if yours is still holding? Did it turn into the nightmare scenario my mechanic friends got me worried about?

Greetings fellow Tacophiles and 2nd gen owners -
I have a 2011 long bed extended cab I purchased used. This year, my horn went out and I decided I'd better fix it so while I considered DIY I didn't want to risk the airbag issue and took it to a local auto electric fellow with a good rep and found an OEM one for half of what my local stealership was charging new. Fixed, and horn is working beautifully.

But also this fall the blower motor resistor failed which I had the same fellow who is reasonable honest and has a great reputation found and replaced, but it barely lasted a month.

I have two friends who are superb mechanics who I asked and they explained something is burning out my blower motor resistor and with it only lasting a month my resistor is being fried by too much or little voltage (excuse me as I am not a mechanic or electronics technician although I've done some basic stuff in the past and have some generation, as a little could be lost in translation). They supposed that one of three cases is likely the case.

The best case is that the blower fan itself is frying the card and that's an easy straightforward fix.

The next best case is my alternator is failing and is blowing it out.

The next best case is that it's the ECM and its replacement with an $800 part and $250 to the stealership to flash the ECM (plus labor) fixes it for good.

The worst case scenario and this is what I wanted to ask folks here about is that it's the ECM and after replacing it and spending a brand it burns out an ECM every year or two, and those electrical issues cause failures of all the systems due to them.

I'm really worried it's the worst case scenario because although I bought it used certified in Cincinnati, I've never gotten close to published fuel economy even with properly inflated tires at sea level on a straightaway. I'd also noticed my first winter that my vehicle did seem to produce more steam than other vehicles on the road, and when I went to top off oil (it's always been well maintained by me, a single car owner whose ex I accidentally tracked down and told me it was under warranty and serviced every time I had it so the only issue was that it did come from the rust belt), it was frothy.

I paid $300 to look at rust and ECM at the dealership who told me both were non-issues [as I had seen recalls]), and a friend of a friend who has one of the most reputable body shop to look at the rust as well and they all said the floor would rust through before the drive train fails, so I figured I was ok.

But I had that frothy white stuff when I opend the oil cap which my mechanic friends say can be incomplete combustion also explaining the more steam, but between not getting the proper fuel economy or anything close which I was told the vehicle calculates for elevation automatically, and its probably just elevation (by the dealership) as everything functions perfectly to spec. So between mpg, froth, and now this, I'm afraid it's the worst case scenario so thus looking to turn into a money pit after replacing an ECM and it starts destroying the vehicle.

Thus, I'm here to ask 2nd Gen taco owners have any of you had similar issues? 113210 miles at last fill-up. Any class actions you're aware of if so? Recourse advice as the stealership told me it's golden when I still had time under lemon laws to do something, and that's documented? And also had a used car inspection done by a reputable mechanic in Cincinnati before I flew out to purchase and drive back?

Advice Tacophiles?

Signed,
Casper, WY