4th gen Oil Change

Nope (unfortunately). And I’ll keep saying it. Just makes me laugh, I guess I’m easily entertained.

 

That is not necessarily a problem! Usually makes your hobbies cheaper and leaves you a cheap date!

 

No different than the use Premium only sticker on some vehicles, or the Caution it’s hot on a cup of coffee…….

 

Again, what’s your point?

 

I used 0w30 Euro in my wifes veh and 3rd gen for a bit and you are right, It was noticeably smoother and quieter. Just got to hard to find locally for what I wanted to run.

 

At low temperatures the oil is a lower viscosity, hence the 0 winter. But as the oil gets to higher temperatures it functions exactly like something approaching a 30 weight.

At operating temperature (nearing 212f), the viscosity of a 0W-30, 5w-30 or 10w-30 will be the same as a straight 30 weight. But at low temperatures, the straight 30 weight will be absurdly viscous relative to a 0w-30. So if you were to use a 10W-30, a 5W-30, or 0W-30 at 68F, that 0, 5, or 10 winter part wouldn't really be relevant. The terminal viscosity is always similar: 30

If you do six month intervals roughly, the best practice would be to look at the temperature range you are likely to experience over that six month period and choose the 0w, 5w etc part of it based on the lowest temperature you are likely to encounter. There's some other technical reasons why you might opt to do a 5w-30 vs a 0w-30, but that really gets into the weeds and honestly is kind of pointless if you're doing 5 or 10k oil change intervals with anything other than the most bottom barrel oil.

 

What do you use in your truck? I just don't like how toyota says you have to use 0w20 in the owners manual and it doesn't give you any options anymore. I believe it's due to EPA and not longevity out of the engine.

 

Consider this: the manuals for other countries with a different focus on their environmental regs — less focus on fuel economy and more on pollution; fuel economy needs are driven more by customer demand for it dues to higher fuel costs — allow you to use many different oils. Plus, those countries have much better consumer protection laws than the US does.

I don't think this has anything to do with longevity. It probably doesn't particularly matter as long as you change the oil regularly. It's probably due to the labelling for fuel economy regulations and nothing more. Remember, most vehicles that have auto start/stop don't remember you turning it off across drive cycles specifically because the EPA requires you to report the fuel economy with the auto start/stop turned off if it can stay. They neither want to pay to test it twice nor want to post a lower number.

 

It really doesn't get too cold where I live so anything 5w-XX would be fine for me. I have 5w-20 in it now, only because I got a bunch of it on sale on closeout. I'm not particularly fond of the Toyota OEM oil, but would have zero qualms about a good quality 0w-20 or 5w-20. I thought the oil temps would run hotter in this truck than they do. It keeps the oil reasonably cool, usually around 190F, and occasionally as hot at 204, but only for short bursts with a load, headwind, on the interstate at 80mph.

I would do the 0w-20 if it was cold here (temps sub 0F).

 

What level should the oil be on the dash? Mine is at halfway with about 250 miles. It was about 2/3 but seems to have gone down. Going to stop by and pick up oil but don't want to overfill or anything

 

I don’t think the oil level is accessible on the dash. That’s oil pressure or oil temperature you’re looking at

 

Okay thanks that makes sense. I was about to upload pics showing when I accelerated to about 2k rpm it would go up to almost 2/3 and then drop below half as rpm went down to about 1k.

 

Keep an eye on it, but it’s probably fine. New engines have sloppy rings and tend to use oil until they seat right.

Edit: Looking at the next post I’m realizing that I misread yours. Yeah, that indicator’s oil pressure. What I said applies to oil level.

 

That’s oil pressure. Totally normal behavior. As RPM rises, the oil pump spins faster and produces more volume and pressure.

 

Welp changed mine for the first time just now. Made a mess it squirts out more than I expected. Used Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0-20W. 1497miles. Will change again at 3000mi then every 3K. Oil was a touch darker than I thought would have been but I'm sure factory is bulk oil so. The filter is tiny, I wish it had a bigger one.

 

I just changed at 5k (did my first at 500). I also use Pennzoil ultra platinum. Oil was much darker than I thought it would be as well at 5k.

 

When I did oil change, added the Fumoto valve to reduce (hopefully eliminate altogether) future mess. This is my 1st Tacoma, but many experienced people here have recommended them. Pic below:

 

That is a nice touch OP I might do that at next change. Thanks.

 

Hey OP that was the long nipple or short nipple?

 

It's definitely a long-nipple version.

What I want to know is what's the difference between the

$37 F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103N and the

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N. They look identical. The spec sheets only differ in that the F103N lists the nipple length and diameter as "n/a" where the F133N lists dimensions. They seem otherwise identical except for the price; the FN103N inexplicably is on sale at the Fumoto site.

Edit: Ah, the F103N is the old valve. The F133N has a larger internal orifice for faster oil flow. Seems like you probably want the F133N.