1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

No I left the .380 in its case...

 

Why? Do you need one? I got one for ya if you are an '02.

 

No, I'd like to yank mine out too

 

Was fighting some pinging that was getting worse and turned out that a big part of it was the cat was starting to clog up causing additional backpressure, getting worse over time.
Some signs that pointed towards this was; worse MPG, higher peak boost pressures, quieter exhaust sound, overall loss of power, higher MAP in cruising.
Previous state of the tune was no doubt contributing to the downfall of the cat as it was richer than probably needed to be in a lot of the cruising cells. Hammering limiter with an aggressive rpm cut I'm sure didn't help either
Wasn't obvious that it was clogged when I pulled it if you held it up to the light, but some of the honeycomb on the engine side was starting to break down.
Swapped in a test pipe and that helped a lot of the problem areas.

Ditching the cat
Pros: mo powa
Cons: sounds like a 4cyl rice rocket

Will be swapping out my 18 resonator to a 24in one to hopefully tame it down some

 

Get that turbine muffler going

 

What's a cat

 

Wanna come swap my SC for a turbo?

 

Meow

 

I will definitely come do all the work if you buy all the parts!

 

Oh yes please! Turbo rz's with a nice equal length manifold sound killer. And don't take much muffling to quiet them down.

 

I can build that nice manifold..

 

Ahhhh a man of class! Dual v band all the way! Killer work! I may message you when we get closer to building one for our t100 to pick your brain about some of the smaller details if it's alright with you!

 

Damn. I've been thinking about redoing my twins setup again since I no longer need to worry about keeping my charcoal canister. Might need to hit you up lol

 

I don't suppose anyone knows if it's worth adding a gear axis to the VE fuel table?

I have just the in-gear or not axis now, and I can't wrap my head around why VE would vary with gear numbers. Either way, it's a free axis but would take a while to relearn.

Only other option really would be ethanol content, which I'm not planning on persuing in the near future.

 

More boost/timing available with Ethanol as you know..

 

The differences should be relatively minor, if you have your base VE well tuned then short term will correct for the gear to gear differences no problem if your PID is dialed and I'd probably spend that extra time tuning boost by gear instead.

 

Hey guys, I've read about half way through this thread so far. I've got a turbo 1999 5vz 4Runner that I'm looking to run a standalone. Well, not quite a standalone, more like parallel since I still need the stock ECU to run the transmission and other things. Instead of Haltech I'm looking to run a rusEFI ECU. I'm fairly new to all this, but found a guy who goes by Turbine Research that's started posting videos using the rusEFI on the 5vz. rusEFI uses TunerStudio, the same tuning software used with MS. I noticed in one of his videos here around the 2:00 mark his TDC offset is 155 degrees. However I've seen it mentioned here, as well as on DIYAUTOTUNE that the offset is 153 degrees. Additionally I noticed that the Turbine Research guy has Rising Edge selected, however the DIYAUTOTUNE site indicates Falling Edge. I figure the Haltech crowd will know this better than anyone. Any idea why the discrepancies?

 

I don't know why the discrepancies, but my TDC is set to 155. Reluctors on falling edge. I don't know that the edge really matters other than you'd get a certain small degree lag on falling

 

I'd just check with a timing light 153° is usually almost dead on +/-1°. But either value will get your engine started to verify for certain with a timing light. I'm unfortunately a bit too familiar with the rusEFI and the people who program it (who's data and advice @2RZNoShi1 and myself have had to correct to get someone else running on one). It really isn't designed to work as a piggyback either because of the hardwired pullups on the sensor circuits. The rising and falling settings for Crank and Home trigger are generally going to be falling but you can flip flop them if you have edge detection circuitry issues (the rusEFI has a pretty weak VR filter circuit) or if your home falls too close to the crank 0 position.

 

Ok, I have a LOT to say about the RusEFI ECU. I have been working with a guy trying to get his setup to run correctly on a rusefi for about 2 months now. First, big glaring issue is that you can't run piggyback with it, because it requires the use of a dedicated crank and cam grounds, it can't pick the signal out from the standard sensor ground the way haltech can so you need to split your ground splice in the harness. The problem then, is that the grounds are tied internally in the stock Toyota ECU, so they will still read the same. RusEFI has no way of differentiating, so you will be stuck running batch fire. Next, the sensor circuit seems to have some kind of resistance issues while piggyback, where the 5v sensors seem to follow load. For example, boost starts going up towards peak, well coolant temp and iat and TPS are all affected by that signal. In a log I have seen coolant temp go from 85-90°c before the pull, to 115°c under peak boost, then as soon as throttle is closed, the temp drops back to 85-90. Same with iat. Then, the logging parameters are named very odd ways, so finding points of data that are relevant becomes a huge chore, especially when troubleshooting an issue, and there is just too much(mostly irrelevant) data crammed in, so you have to work through 100 different pieces of data that do nothing for you. I will give it this, it does seem to have a relatively decent wideband controller built into the ecu, which is a pretty neat feature. I think my biggest issue with RusEFI however, is that it uses tuner studio as it's communication platform. It's a "pay to play" platform, where you have to pay to unlock software features that really just should be available, such as changing the pressure units. It's not a very intuitive software to navigate, and leaves a lot to be desired with definable parameters for things such as closed loop PID controllers and table resizing and scaling. If you go that route, I think your final hurdle will be finding someone that is willing to tune it. I personally am willing to tune it, but only if everything is already diagnosed and working correctly. If budget is your concern, you are very good at diy and troubleshooting, and you are willing to deal with the headaches that come with a platform with limited support, it will absolutely do the job it's intended for. If you want something that will work without the hassle, I'd stick with the platforms that are more well established. Haltech, ecumaster, fueltech, etc.

Also, 155° angle has been right most of the time when I have asked people to verify their base timing with a light while I tuning their trucks, but like @Speedytech7 said, both will get your truck running to verify with a light.