1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Yikes.

 

Is this Kenneth you're talking about?

I had already figured on running batch fire for the injectors.

Interesting, I haven't heard about this before.

Which I won't be using, lol. My plan is to feed the 0-5v output from my AEM wideband into one of the aux inputs on the rusEFI to get closed loop corrections. My understanding is that I'll need to ground my AEM in the same location that the stock ECU is grounded to (intake plenum).

I was planning to reach out to you at some point in the future once I get it all wired up.

 

Yeah

 

Actually just the other day, Kenneth said "If these injectors don't fix this bs with it running dumb and randomly redlining(having ignition cut issues well before it should be, usually around 4k rpm) I'm just going to pick up a haltech, and save this for a 22re build"

 

Have you not wired it in yet? I know it is expensive in comparison, but the benefits of a rock solid easy to tune setup outweigh the temporary moment to save a bit more. I'd really urge you if you haven't wired the thing in to just sell it and consider going Haltech. Even the cheapest Elite 750 won't make you have to downgrade to batch fire and you can piggy back it effortlessly without making it impossible to go full standalone down the road. Hell if you get a 2000/2500/S3 we can get it to control the trans even.

 

Honestly, if you do go with a RusEFI, I would actually genuinely recommend you use the internal wideband controller. It may be able to do closed loop off a 5v input, but the controller is the one thing I'm actually impressed with.

 

I mean, I already have it, I'm gonna at least try it out. I have the breakout board wired up, just need to get the connectors attached. Won't be much different whether I'm wiring in a rusEFI or a Haltech. Just disconnect one and connect the other.

I mean, is there a real benefit to using the onboard wideband controller? And needing its own dedicated sensor, meaning I'd need to weld in yet another sensor bung (already have one for my AEM wideband and factory air-fuel ratio sensor that the stock ECU reads). If there's a real benefit, then sure I'll do it. But considering the AEM already outputs this information I'm not clear on what the benefit would be here.

 

The software may not run the closed loop fuel control based off a 5v sensor input version, it may only utilize that input for logging. Where the internal wideband controller can use the wideband data to adjust fuel trims based on "target vs actual" error. If it can't utilize the 5v sensor input for the o2 control aspect of the tune, you will be running in open loop 100% of the time, and the ECU can't compensate for fuel trim deviations. If you end up running it in open loop, you are losing one of the bigger benefits of going with a stand alone or piggy back ECU. Full control of your fuel. It would be more worth it to use the aem o2 sensor for the ECU, and then get some kind of gauge compatible with the output(canbus or other) from the RusEFI.

 

From what I've gathered from the rusEFI forums and other places, the 0-5v output from the AEM into the aux input on the ECU does allow for full closed loop control. Seems like the biggest thing to watch out for is voltage drift. I'll try it out once I get it all wired up.

 

As long as closed loop will function, and you don't have sensor voltage drift, it should be ok. Just keep a very close eye on it at least. Would hate to see something catastrophic happen because of a slightly unstable sensor circuit

 

Luckily I believe you can limit how much correction the closed loop feedback can make, so that it doesn't in fact go wild in the event of a bad sensor or voltage drift.

 

And always err on the side of safety when it comes to tuning by AFR by a few tenths of a point since 0 to 5 volt wideband ground bias issues are common and the reading being sent to the ECU likely will not be accurate.

 

Has anyone else gotten backfire when starting? I have for a while, but it seems to have gotten worse with colder weather. Wondering if it's due to injection pulse + waste spark system.. and wondering if anyone has theirs turned off and just use a rich startup fuel table.

 

Nope. Every single truck has started up pretty much perfect, aside from Zane's, and his starts well, but cannot figure out what fueling it wants. It shouldn't backfire. Maybe check your cranking timing and your start up fuel table values for cranking and prime pulse. If the ve table or injector data isn't solid, it's going to give you a hard time

 

None here.

 

Mine works fine I've only ever had a backfire once from getting two prime pulses because I accidentally fumbled with the key

 

Ya mine still doesn't start the same two times in a row. Think I will try disabling the prime pulse. Don't think the OEM ECU does it?

 

You can try disabling quick start first and that will delay ignition until the engine has a revolution to find sync.

 

Oh and the stock ECUs do fire up in batch fire mode to assist in starting faster but I dunno if they do a single large blast of all the injectors first or not.

 

The colder cells are programmed to be a larger pulse, another reason I think it's the cause