Tpp4's No Nonsense Guide to Kicker Key T-Harness (16-19)

the wires on the kicker inout harness are pretty thing so I would probably try to avoid those if you can. a basic wrap or military splice will be plenty.

 

Yep. When I got "sad" tones after trying to set up my kicker, and determine what the "beeps" meant afterwards, I simply cranked up the volume and tried again...

 

How do you like the setup? Happy with your choices?

 

I am satisfied. I have posts over in the "$250 premium upgrade" thread. I put the Subaru's in the dash, and Kicker KS in front and rear doors. I added sound deadening mats to the door panels. My kicker 200.4 was the last piece. It's just "lying" behind the head unit. The sound is MUCH better than it was when I was running stock speakers...

I don't have the thumping that my old ride had (300w sub-woofer), but the Kickers in the doors now kick, and when I need to crank it up, it doesn't disappoint.

I was almost disappointed... but I figured out the problem, and used silly-putty (or similar) to rectify it... I was getting a rattle from my driver's door after I completed the install, and had the volume cranked when the bass was pumping. I discovered the rattle was coming from the plastic plate behind the door pull handle (the one you "pop" off when you need to remove the door cover). So I just used a small piece of play-dough (actually some sound deadening putty) on the back of the plastic cover, put it in place, and now it doesn't rattle.

Overall of course, there is always room for improvement, but at some point, the ends don't justify the means...

 

Super helpful thread. About to add a Key 200.4 to a 2013 non jbl.

Is it still acceptable practice to get our power and ground from the factory radio to power this amp and utilize the existing HU 20A fuse as done in this tutorial? Obviously way simpler than running a dedicated fused power/ground but am wondering of any drawbacks to powering the amp this way such as the risk of burning up that thinner existing power wire (when the amp calls for at least 12 gauge and it’s own fuse).

 

You won’t burn up the wire because the fuse will blow first, but it’s always ideal to run dedicated power. With that being said, several people have used this thread and use the factory wiring and I haven’t seen anyone come back and post that they’ve had issues. At this point it’s been several years. But a wiring kit is like 15 bucks if you want the peace of mind

 

That makes sense, thanks. I’ll probably stick to the way it’s laid out here seeing it’s worked for others.

 

@Fish Taco 4x4, take ALL of @destin_meeks advice. He knows what he’s talking about.

 

Finally got this one knocked out. Kicker KS 6x9 components up front and KS 6.75 coaxials in the rear with the doors and back wall treated with deadener. Key 200.4 on the factory 2013 head unit. Went through 2 of the female Metra harnesses trying to depin the connectors, still haven’t figured out how to do it without destroying the tabs. I opted to run power straight to the battery and ground to the drivers side kick panel, I didn’t get a warm and fuzzy feeling about tapping into the existing power and ground. Sound is much improved and overall I’m happy with it aside from the white noise which might just be the nature of these amps and the awful head unit.

Thanks to OP and Destin for the help!



Also scratched the hell out of my AC control panel putting the HU back in, not good.

 

I’ve had my setup installed for several years & love it but the speakers suddenly stopped putting out any sound but the sub still puts out sound. The power light is not lit up on the keynote amp & when I start my truck, the red PRT light quickly turns on & off once, then nothing. I checked the power & remote wires to the amp, both are getting 12V. I’m thinking the amp just went bad since it worked fine for years & abruptly stopped working. Has anyone experienced this or have any ideas of what else it could be?