Any PC Builders Out There?

So you have an ASRock brand card - Taichi Lite is the model

Looking at the pic, you have an LED display for easy troubleshooting in the event of a no post at the bottom between the USB and front panel headers



It's a 2 digit setup so I'm not sure where this AA21 appears but you can click here and go to page 58 - https://download.asrock.com/Manual/B650E Taichi Lite.pdf

Just remember, something as simple as RAM not properly seated can cause issues. That or one failed stick.

 

@Sterdog

Did you see der8auerEN's video?

He went ahead with measuring his own 5090 card's amp draw on his 12VHPWR cable and measured 23 amps, another at 5 amps, 10 amps, 8 amps, and 3. In short, one wire was measured to be pulling way more amps than all the rest.

Also used a thermal imaging camera just to show how hot the wires and connectors got at both ends.

He did this because the user that recently suffered a melted connector on his own 5090 sent his card to der8auer to check out.

 

Yeah, that's what I found through Google. Try one stick, then move it to the other slot, then the other and do the same.

 

Gool ol Aszrock. I had to use flashblack to update my 650m pro rs bios before it would boot with the 9800. Also found out my O11 vertical gpu riser was incompatible. But if the rams the issue I'd just grab some Corsair sticks, that shit works in everything in my experince.

$115 CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz CL30 AMD Expo Intel XMP iCUE Compatible Computer Memory – Gray (CMK32GX5M2B6000Z30)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBRJ63RT?th=1

 

Every AMD mobo I've used I've had to update the bios straight out of the box to get it to work. The flashback/mflash/whatever bios updates without needing the CPU are a god send for that. I forget what ryzen series it was where you had to get AMD to ship you an older cpu so you could use it to update your bios and ship it back. 3000 series, maybe?

 

I didn't watch it but I read a summary.

My take, nVidia is at fault here. While on the PSU side there is circuitry to support load balancing across each cable within the bundle, on the card side they all terminate to a common rail right after the connector. That is an enforced nVidia specification for these cards so AIBs have to follow it. When everything terminates to a common rail on the card side, whichever wire has the least resistance will carry the most current according to ohms law. It's almost like nVidia skipped electrical engineering or believes their product won't follow the laws of physics.

I also saw that another techtuber measured 60c temperatures on the wire insulation, but when he stripped it the copper wire was hitting over 150c during brief spikes in current draw. The absolute maximum short term temperature for any copper wire is usually 130c. Again, this is a mess of nVidia's choosing. They had years to develop this card, and they apparently mickey moused the electrical connection after the plug.

 

Intel never needs bios updates because they rarely reuse the same socket generation to generation lol. The 12th/13th/14th gen is the first time I remember Intel using a socket for three generation since they used a slot system lol. They also only did that because the 12th/13th/14th gen are basically the same with slight tweaks and more power per sku through each generation.

 

That's really odd. Is it a brand new motherboard? If it's been used before, make sure to reset the CMOS. DDR5, like previous standards, should boot at it's base speed off the bat. It would be very rare to not boot at all unless EXPO is enabled. All ram should boot at base speeds on all AMD and Intel platforms. The QVL exists mainly to support EXPO timings, not base speeds.

Did you make sure to leave the system to boot for at least 5 minutes? The older Bios versions of 600 boards can take up to 5 minutes to complete memory training, so you have to go make a sandwich or something and pray while it boots lol. AMD does this because it allows for fine tuning of the additional memory timings that aren't saved in the XMP/EXPO profiles.

Last thought, and this one might seem crazy, did you make sure your graphics card is fully seated and plugged in? That can throw a GPU/PCI-E/RAM error, strangely. I've had it happen on a friends build he did himself. If all else fails, remove the GPU and boot with the integrated graphics to trouble shoot. Don't forget to plug the monitor into the motherboard for the testing and then switch back to the GPU when you reinstall it.

 

The r/hardware subreddit is a crazy place sometimes. AMD has formally set a date for the 9000 series launch at the end of February, with cards going on sale in early march, and some of the comments about the 9070XT and expectations are crazy. I mean, I saw one that's heavily upvoted that claims that the 5070Ti is a "low end card" and that the 9070XT is expected to "be even lower." What a world when people actually think the 80 series is mid tier and the 90 series is the high end. It's always been: 90 series enthusiast, 80 series high end, 70 series mid tier, 50-60 series entry level, and 30 series low tier. Even nVidia lists this on their marketing materials.

My AMD Radeon 9000 series expectations have diminished. Canada Computers appears to have leaked pricing yesterday, though it's been taken down. $699 for the 9070XT and $599 in USD for the 9070, if the leak is legit, it was taken down. I was expecting pricing about $100 lower than that if AMD wanted to make any gains this generation. They can't try to be just under nVidia pricing. Half of the market believes AMD cards are just garbage, and a lot of the other half listens to them. If there's almost no price difference, buyers will go nVidia just because nVidia and the perception of superiority whether it exists or not.

 

I think you are right. My younger daughter is die-hard nVidia, and my older daughter used to listen to her and just follow along. When it came time for my older daughter to build a new PC, she got an AMD card due to price, availability, and performance, and she has never looked back. She's a PC gamer and has no complaints. I don't game on PC, so I just get a good mid-tier AMD card for a reasonable price and call it good. I've just had too many issues with nVidia cards or drivers in the past, and ATI/AMD has always provided good stability, for me anyway. Plus I used to work for AMD, so I like to support them.

EDIT: I will say that the refurbed 1080 cards I bought for my daughters years ago have been excellent and are still in use.

 

Heres my AM5 build. So far so good. Sorry your taichi lite is having problems, I went with a X670E & been good so far. I didn't use 4 sticks of ram, just 2. I went with G Skill. Mine does take forever to boot as mentioned above

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JxN8W4

 

and now this.

https://x.com/JayzTwoCents/status/1890090230566244366?s=19

It looks like some manufacturer supplied cables have sockets that are being pushed back out of connecting properly by the pins. You can't tell its happening because the size of the connector and the tape used at the base to keep them bundled hides any movement. So, yes, someone can fully click in either the new or old style 12V connector and still have it melt due to an improper connection.

At this point, these connections should be scraped. Come up with something else or stick to 4 x PCI-E 8 pin.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I’m going to run through this tomorrow to trouble shoot.

 

That was something I considered actually, but not knowing how these terminals are done, I left it alone.

I say this because I recently walked my friend through re-pinning her hand torch from her plasma cutter to act like a machine torch. You need to relocate the pins on the plug to bypass a safety mechanism along with zip-tying the hand torch trigger.

Once she got it together she had a constant failure to fire until she found out the pin was pushed back out when she had connected it back to her plasma cutter.

Only after pushing the pin in and seating it correctly did it stay in place and work like normal.

I guess the 'connectors' within these housings have a lot of play and allows them to be pushed back as shown in your picture.

 

The other problem is that the pins in the 6 and 8 pin connectors are bigger with no tape needed on the wires to hold them together. When a pin moves on those older connectors, you can clearly see it. With the new 12V connection, the pin is not only much smaller, but also the base is hidden behind the a piece of fabric tape. There's no real way to tell a pin has pushed back into a sketchy position.

 

Man, we just need to go back to 6/8 pin connectors.

I remember thinking my 3080 looked like a badass with 3x 8 pin connectors.

I even used the same 'comb' used for your standard 24 pin connector to your motherboard

 

Got some new DDR5 RAM that’s on the list for my MOBO to try tonight. Wife will be working 1p to 1a so I should have plenty of time to troubleshoot this.

Appreciate the help and input from this group already!

 

Was this a new build? Or was the PC already running and suddenly started having issues?

I haven't followed to the T exactly, just remember your last post was "I think I teased out" which I'm not sure what that means.

If it's a new build, you would just shut everything off, pull one stick of ram out, and fire it back up. If the issue persists, you swap sticks.

Can do this in 2 minutes without having to buy new ram.

 

New build. Haven’t had it up and running yet.

I was going off the guess that the current DDR5 RAM not being on the compatibility list for my MOBO was causing this issue so I followed the list and ordered a new set. I can try again with my current RAM and if it works, just return the new set.

 

Ah that makes sense!

Yeah it's kind dumb but you're not the first to try ram not on the list. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I tried that with 2x 48gb sticks from a brand approved on the checklist. Hell, the part numbers were close with only one or two numbers off. Even used the same die.

Didn't work and wouldn't post even after swapping back and forth.

Ended up with less ram that was on the approved list.

Just make sure to perform a memtest after it's up and running.