TRD engine swap

Hey Everyone!
Seems to be quite a bit of knowledge on this site so i joined. Ty.. Doing an engine swap in 16 Gen 3 TRD and updating to a 2020 TRD gen 3 both are 3.5 everything seems to match up and connect after install but having a tremendous amount of fuel smell/vapors coming out the tailpipe and it wont start now.It did initially and ran for 30 seconds then i shut it off to check for any leaks of fluids. It wants to restart but, will not? Is there any special relearns or resets on software that it may need to have done? And is it something i can obtain? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thnx

 

Sounds like you know what you’re doing but any chance the negative battery terminal is loose?
I don’t have the knowledge to suggest anything else unless it flooded with fuel and you’ll need to wait a while. Could be the cause of the fuel smell too… maybe.

Either way, good luck!

 

Any trouble codes?

 

Well, I know this is a Captain Obvious statement, but it sure sounds like she is flooded. Have you tried the old "floor it" trick? I know that was the solution for old carbureted engines but not sure if that works on fuel injected engines. Good luck and good on you for being able to do an engine swap!

 

Couple questions...when you say TRD...were both TRD Off-Road engines and not mixed up with a sport? The TRD OR and the TRD Sport have different cam shafts and vacuum setup. Also, try disconnecting the injectors and crank it over for a while to see if it will start?

 

Does that work in these days of throttle by wire? I’m not sure the throttle would open all the way at startup even if the pedal was depressed the whole way.

I’ve never actually tried it on a taco, because as far as I have observed they either never get flooded or they take care of it for you.

I have observed harder than normal starts after killing the engine on a steep slope (manual transmission). I’m not sure if that is due to flooding though.

 

Toyota is one of the few vehicles I know of that don't shut off fuel when you floor it and crank the starter.

 

In my off-roading experience (not Tacoma) when stalling an engine on inclines the engine actually runs backwards after the stall and the sensor timing gets messed up. That is why it takes longer to start the engine - it has to find itself again.

I have an AT in my Tacoma, and I have found one sure fire way to duplicate this: Head down a steep hill, put the vehicle in Reverse and back up the hill a bit and then release the accelerator pedal, the truck will stop going uphill and reverse to going downhill forward while the gear selector is in reverse. This will kill the engine, and it will take longer to start the engine.

 

For real the long block is different? Damn.

 

Most issue are related to improper connections. Recheck the engine harness connectors.
The other advise, get a quality scanner if you do this type of job.

 

What is source of this? It was my understanding the 2GR was the same across all Tacoma trim levels.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/18-trd-vacuum-pump-vs-non-vac-pump-motors.759101/

 

Yeah, live and learn on that one!

 

Did you also swap the ECU from the 2020? I think ECU is the computer,DUH!

 

I had to block off the Vacuum pump with my original plate. I examined the cam that the pump goes into and plugged the port at the end of the cam. (looks like an oiling port for pressure?) I didn't change the ECU and have a Snap-On Triton scanner that relearned to factory specs? I even changed the reluctor for the crank sensor but its the same anyhow. Im still lost as its still dumping a bunch of fuel it seems? I also loosened the fuel supply to the HPP and then it tries to start. All the connections seem nice and everything is in place as far as it looks.

 

Just cranks? Checked for sparks, compression on each cylinder at tdc?TDC?
Check fuses

 

There is no such thing as a long block on these really. What is different between the different engine versions is how they equip the cam. All models use the same cams, but trim levels using a vacuum booster have a vacuum pump driven by the bank 1 intake cam. The pump mounts to the cam tower and inserts into the hole in the back of the cam for oiling. For hydraulic booster models (TRD OR/Pro), they seal the cam hole with a sealing ball and then put a block off plate over the hole in the cam tower.

There are no other differences in the engine itself, it is just a difference in how they cover up the hole in the cam and cam tower. OP addressed it properly by sealing the hole and installing his own block off plate that he removed from the old motor.

 

I would have gone the hilux route lol

 

100% correct….