Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

I think I may have a similar deal. So I’m narrowing it down to a few things now. I know for sure my drivers balljoint is jacked and the LCAs as a whole need replaced. Lastly, wondering about the engine mounts… I’ll find out in about a month when I replace a bundle of suspension parts and lift and see if it goes away

 

Will these work on a 3rd gen??

 

There's a forum for questions about the turd gen. Try asking them.

 

Developed a Clunk and thinking I need to do bushings after 16years....but then realized I may need to take my GoFast Camper or roof rack off. How much are you guys lifting to get the bushing out?

 

Just a little bit. You don't want to lift too much.

And make sure to loosen all 6 mounts before changing any. As you lift one side of the cab, you want to other side to be able to move. And before you tighten them, look at the cab to make sure it is still aligned - it may shift slightly during this installation.

 

This may have been posted before but as to the Tacoma lean issue, I am compelled to share my experience, as this forum sharing has helped me a lot.

My 2016 taco has a 5/8" driver's side lean. This weekend I installed new Dobinsons stock rate coil springs over new Bilstein 5100 front shocks, which were set at stock height/first circlip, as my 305/75r16 tires provide over an inch of ground clearance themselves.

I changed the drivers side strut first. I then took a lean measurement and my lean was down to an 1/8". Then I replaced the passenger side strut and took a lean measurement, and my drivers side lean of 5/8" had returned.

I found this thread today while searching for non-suspension lean causes and wanted to share my findings. Next time, I will try the second circlip setting on my driver's side shock and a 1/2" rear block and check lean and ride. I am pretty sure this will be treating a symptom, and not a core cause of the lean.

 

I think you might have the wrong thread but if not:

I am not sure anyone has confirmed body mounts are what cause the classic taco lean. Usually suspension is what people approach as the fix for this as they body is going to follow the frame which is ultimately what you want. suspension will articulate, body/frame will not (or at least much more minimally due to frame flex). Keeping the body/frame as consistent with each other as possible keeps center of gravity... more centered.

 

Completed my cab mount bushing job last night, well mostly - still need to reinstall the front bumper/grille/trim and reinstall the interior trim. Didn't feel like doing all that at 2AM in the dark driveway with a thunderstorm rolling in.



Thankfully it was a pretty straightforward job and I didn't strip/break/round any bolts or need to break out any cutting tools. Came really really close to rounding off the last bolt on the last forward cab mount I went to remove, though; didn't have the socket fully seated on the nut. Whoops.

Ended up using the front bushings that came in the kit, despite ordering the alternate bushing kit mentioned by the OP. Didn't like that the alt bushings don't sit down into the bushing location pocket on the frame. Overall my factory bushings were a mixed bag - forward body bushings were a bit misshapen, not in great shape, but not terrible. The forward cab mount bushings looked almost brand new, even the hardware looked newer. Rear cab mount bushings were totally blown out and separated with big cracks.



Sourcing any new hardware was a major challenge. Ordered a full hardware set from toyotapartsdeal.com and USPS blew open the box and only the 2 rear cab mount bolts showed up when it arrived.

Filed a lost/damaged package claim, and now the replacement reorder is floating in the USPS ether with an 'arriving late' status, last update 3 days ago. Ended up sourcing the very front bolts/nuts from my local Toyota dealer at a stupid cost and reused the remaining hardware. The nuts are on backorder and unavailable at this time, too.

Hopefully this helps fix the phantom clunk I've been trying to track down. If not... well, I've got a full set of tie rods sitting on the workbench.

 

Its been some years since I created this thread. The new body mount bushings definitely reduced my lean, but these trucks are driver side heavy and suspension is the "fix" for that. As I wrote in the OP, my body was hitting the sliders and new bushings, flipped, was the solution.

As to my taco lean saga...
I have been through 5100s on stock springs, 5100s on Old Man Emu springs, and a full Emu setup. I've gone back in to add a 1/4"spacer to each of these when the lean eventually returned. I still have OME Dakar HD leaf packs in back and 885s up front with OME shocks on all corners. Driver front still has the extra 1/4" puck AND I still have a little lean. It's inevitable , I just live with it these days. I still love this truck, and I'm getting back into the build.

 

Truck certainly feels tighter but steering clunk is still present.

I’ll do the tie rods anyway since I have all the parts, but I’m actually thinking it’s steering rack bushings at this point.

 

I’m concerned about mine too; it’s still giving me issues.

 

Considering I'm going to be replacing my own tie rods eventually, I might as well order up the rack bushings and give it a go.

Job doesn't look *that* bad, though there's certainly potential for a lot to go wrong depending on the condition of your hardware: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/

 

I am going to do this swap as well. My passenger rear body mount rusted away, so I have to weld in a new mount, and figured it just makes sense to replace all the bushings with the ES ones.

I have all the long bushing bolts out on passenger side. There is no rear frame mount anymore, so I don’t have to worry about those plate bolts. For the front cab mount, I have to lift the body to get to head of bolt. Do I need to loosen driver side long bolts to do this?

 

I have to replace body mount bracket here. Also need to get body up a bit so I can grid off remains of old bracket

 

Here are the remains of the passenger rear mount. Truck was clunking really bad. lol.

 

I have replaced all three of the passenger bushings with the ES ones. On the driver’s side, the front bushing has been replaced, and I discovered that the rear mount was almost rusted through, so I cut it out and will replace it with a new one. The driver-side middle one is the problem. The heads of the bolts holding the bushing plate are rusted really bad. I tried taking an impact gun to the welded nuts, but all it did was round off the nuts. What are my other options? Cut the welded nuts off (assuming I can get a cut off wheel in there with the bushing in the way)?

 

Holy Shit!

 

Any luck on solving the steering clunk? I'm dealing with this now. 2014 DCSB with 145k miles.

I did new 6112's at 1.2", 5160 rears, KYB front upper strut mounts, sway bushings, endlinks, UCA's, LCA's, new LCA cam hardware torqued to 100ft/lbs, new outer tie rods, stock inners looked fine, ECGS Needle bearing, and new OEM Front body bushings by the radiator.

My body mounts by the radiator were shot, and ripped in half on the driver side. After replacing them, the metal on metal clunking is gone. I still have this steering clunk though, especially if there's cab flexing on unlevel ground. I can't seem to replicate it stationary, and normal driving on the road is fine. But when I slow down to make a left or right onto a side road, or in a parking lot, I get the pop or clunk that I can feel in the floorboard. I'm stumped

 

My cab mount bushings made a popping noise for a long time after the install. Not sure if that's what you are experiencing though.
For years I've had a steering clunk. It was really bad this summer, but hasn't made a noise all winter. I had started suspecting the inner tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. I don't know why it would stop making the noise in winter though. It was easy to replicate.

 

Also, on some years like my 2009, you can get to the mounts without having to remove interior panels if you are using std length bolts.. Just use a 17mm wrench (I use a ratchet wrench, while holding the hex part of the bolt the extends past the threaded part with a wrench - I used an adjustable just because it was there.