TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

What are some things I should be looking over before install?

 

LOL

 

When I put my charger on I did a compression test and leak down test to make sure all was solid (It was all good). I had to replaced valve guide seals for burning oil. So I did all new timing components (minus vvt gears), valve seals and installed the supercharger at 151k.

 

I'm no expert but I did the install myself last summer and took my time with it. Even though it didnt really need it, i switched out the water pump, idler pulleys, Tensioner pulley radiator, cooling hoses. Just standard maintenance stuff really. Totally not necessary but I was just having fun with it learning as I go. Check for leaks, replacing gaskets if needed. If I can do it, anyone can.

Edit: wouldn't hurt to have an ultragauge or scan gauge to see your fuel trims in case you get a vacuum leak. I may or may not have forgotten to tighten down the bolts that mates the blower to the intake manifold....

 

OH, replace any gasket, o-ring or seal you touch while in there. You don't want to say it will be fine and start leaking oil. So save yourself a headache down the road.

 

ULTRAGAUGE I have, I know for sure the gasket on the driver side valve cover needs replacing.

 

For a 2012-2015 with SAIS, don’t wire up the intercooler pump as the install docs say.

 

Wow, now I have to do this. I was wondering if that was normal. Thanks man!

 

Is it required to do this? Any downside to not rerouting that wire?

 

they are not, the top one is just a generic bearing you can buy at any parts store, the bottom one is a custom ribbed pulley
Dayco 89007 is a replacement or cross reference for the upper one you circled

 

You can also just change out the bearings if the pulleys are still in good shape. I changed mine out last year and I think it was about $100 for all of them. I used Timkens, here are some notes i made from my build

- SC middle smooth idler bearing replaced with Timken 6203-2RS-C3
- 4 Timken 6303-2RS-C3 replaced on SC upper idlers, lower ribbed idler, & tensioner pulley

 

Remove brass plug from bypass valve hose if the maggy has one.

 

no, it’s not required.

It makes sense why the installation is like this. It’s the quickest way for a dealer to install the supercharger without making it super clean. It would add 30 minutes to the labor costs if they routed it like I have, maybe more since I was able to use a piggyback since I extended the fog relay for the anytime fog mod.

The “downsides” with the official install is that with the truck off, the pump spins up and circulates coolant through the intercooler several times across several hours. For me, camping in desolate places near or in the truck, this was unacceptable for it to be making that noise.

The only minimal benefit of leaving it “stock” is that the coolant will cool down a little quicker than just sitting in one spot on the hot engine. I’m sure for performance gains, it’s negligible.

 

Another rotor pack bearing rebuild.. went much smoother this time.

 

I have not ever replace bearings. I did oil and coupler at 100k when should I replace bearings?

 

Definitely when it starts grinding. Otherwise, it’s preventative maintenance… I think if you send in to a rebuilder, the “100k” full service includes the bearings.

- https://superchargersonline.com/pro...for-trd-magnuson-4-0l-tacoma-fj-supercharger/

 

This kit ^^^ doesn’t have anything to do with the rotor pack assembly. Not many people have replaced the rotor pack bearings like the pics above. Nice work @will.i.was

 

Typically the bearings that wear out more often are within the nose itself which is relatively easy to service. The rotor bearings are more difficult because they have a fine cast on the inside that needs to be reinforced when pressing them out.

The other biggest issue is timing. You can see some of my witness marks that i made with an engraving tip and high speed drill.

I always have my butt cheeks clenched doing these. It took me about 5 hours to do the rotor bearings due to some serious deep cleaning that needed to be done. This was also the first time I utilized these types of seals which i very much prefer over the ones typically provided in a rebuild kit from the more well known suppliers.

For those wondering, this was the kit i purchased.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175498536942

 

I have all of the tooling and a full shop in order to accommodate even attempting this. I pull and press in dozens of varying bearings everyday but these rotor bearings require the most absolute focus. I almost feel like im going to snap a rotor shaft pressing on the gear all the while ensuring my timing marks are lined up.

Its not perfect compared to a laser alignment machine and a full specialized shop but i think im only a few thousands off lol which may be, in the long run, too much tolerance. We will see in some time.

 

can you rebuild mine ?