Yet another question on lifting a taco

Looking to get this package. https://www.tacomalifestyle.com/pro...tacoma-2-inch-lift-kit?variant=42540243419379

Does anyone have any experience with it? I'm pretty clueless about lifts, and get pretty lost when trying to learn about them. Is there anything else missing from the kit that I should prepare to buy? Extended brake lines, etc.

Thanks!

 

Just curious, since you admit to not knowing anything about lifts, why are you lifting your truck? What do you plan to accomplish? Also lifts can create a lot of problems depending on the lift and how it’s done, something you should look into. Lot of $$ if it’s just for looks. I’m not trying to discourage you, just make sure you are aware of the pros and cons.

 

why do you need a lift?

 

Im running medium OME 2" lift kit (2887 front springs) and instead of dakar OME leafs (they tend to squeak), I am running medium dobinsons leafs.

In your link, you selected "heavy load". I would not recommend heavy load unless you are running steel, bumpers, skids, sliders, winch etc. Heavy load lift kit will make the truck ride like garbage if its stock weight.

These nitrocharger shocks are bomb proof, like 3 times thicker than what comes stock on these trucks. My front end has been airborn a couple times while offroad afer the lift and I was impressed how well they handled. Keep in mind these are NOT extended travel front shocks. So if you are going for 2" lift, you will only end up with pathetic ~1.75" of downtravel, and like 5.5" of uptravel, stock is about 3.75" up and 3.75" down ( downtravel is more valuable offroad and in general driving conditions). My front end settled at 1.75" lift (front bumper, winch and sliders) and I have 2.25" of downtravel. I do feel my suspesnion top out at times when going over speed bumps too fast and such. I am not a hardcore offroader, even though I spent a lot of time in the bush fishing, camping etc., the lack of downtravel doesnt bug me that much. Not enough to do anything about it anyway, been driving like this for about 3 years.

I kept my stock needle bearing and it has been absolutely fine despite on what a lot of other TW members say on here. You will probably need a 3 degree shim for rear axle to get rid of vibration, although its hit or miss on theses trucks. I had a vibration on deceleration between 30-10 or so and the shim completely got rid of it.

You dont need any extedned brake lines etc. If you stay no higher then 2", thats a safe bet. The angle of your CV axles will be just fine. Toyota IFS doesnt like to be lifted more than that, unlike a solid front axle.

If i was to do it all over again, I would only go with EXTENDED travel front shocks, they would give you about an extra 3/4" downtravel making it right around 3" (5100 bilsteins) Overall, i really like this lift. It makes the truck more capable off road, improves approach, breakeover, departure angle and looks absolutely fantastic with 33x10" tires.

The lift will decrease your fuel mileage a bit if driving fast on highways. In city i noticed no difference in fuel mileage.

Let me know if you got any other questions.

 

To be cool?

Obviously


I became much, much cooler after i lifted my truck.

 

you are a cool cucumber
and you use the lift

 

Awwwwe

Thanks for the kind words homie!


Virtual hug

 

Thanks for the input!

I want to lift the truck for more clearance, whether I really need it or not. We get a lot of snow in my area (North Dakota) sometimes, and I would like to hit some more challenging trails. At this point, with some of the other installs on the truck (steel bumper, sliders, bakflip), it's getting to be a necessity to upgrade the suspension.

I also think it looks cool. I've always owned used full-sized trucks and never had the money to do what I really wanted with them. My Tacoma is the first new vehicle I've bought for myself and have been trying to really make it my own. The lift is on the wish list.

 

Junk is a straight shooter, pros, cons, all of it.

 

I personally wouldn’t run OME shocks after having them before. With most other aftermarket shocks, adjusting the front height involves turning a collar on the shaft with a spanner wrench or moving a C-clip. With OME’s you have to buy (and install) a completely different coil spring. This sucks if (when) when you want to adjust your ride height because your coils sagged from age or from more added weight.

Also the OME’s are short; you don’t get nearly the articulation you can get with other shocks. Plus, the front Nitrochargers ride rough.

For the money, I’d look at Bilsteins and either Dobinsons or Icon RXT leaf springs.

 

hello all !! really happy to find this forum so much information !!

I have some questions for y'all
so I have a 2022 Tacoma SR 4wd V6 ive had it for some time now and have been really getting the best out of the truck on the stock set up I have a great overloading tent and rack set up and have really been racking up the miles but im ready to upgrade this thing. My first question: I would like to lift it 3-4 inches and am wondering what the best cost effective kit would be with the best performance possible for more advanced overloading and crawling. my 2nd question is about adding a rear locking diff. when on sand and in snow I find myself really wishing I had the ability too lock up my rear end. so again what would be the most cost effective way of getting this done for best performance and value.

thank you and all the best 1

 

Generally, you don’t want to lift more than 2 or 2.5 inches. You lose too much shock downtravel, your CV boots wear out quickly, and wheel alignment starts to become more tricky.

The best bang for your buck for a lift are Bilstein 5100’s. There’s not much more to say than that. If you are mechanically inclined, you can watch a couple youtube videos and install them yourself. Buy a decent torque wrench before you do.

Locking differentials are not cheap. The most budget friendly is a “lunch box locker” — a drop-in autolocker — but it has the most drawbacks too. That said, I have run a lunch box locker in the rear and am currently running one in the front, and they are definitely the most bang for the buck. You can go anywhere someone with a selectable locker can go, but you have to get used to driving with an autolocker.

You can get a lunch box locker for ~$500 and maybe install it yourself, whereas a selectable locker may cost upward of $2,000 after having it professionally installed.

(Edit: No one makes a lunchbox locker for the rear differential of a 3rd Gen Tacoma.)

 

thank you for the help!

 

No problem.

Just FYI, lift just moves the body of the vehicle up. Tires is what gives more ground clearance at the diffs.

 

Yeah. I wish i did more research or the shop owner told me that they are not extended travel.

Why even make shocks stock length if they will be used on a lifted truck? Makes absolutely no sense.

 

I just did a quick search for you and discovered no one makes lunchbox style lockers made for your rear differential. That leaves you with the option of a Detroit locker, which is a super-strong well-reputed autolocker, or a selectable locker (ARB or Harrop). The thing with the Detroit is that it requires professional installation too, so it doesn’t have nearly the savings benefit of a lunchbox style locker.

So, probably start saving your pennies for a Harrop or an ARB with compressor.

The last thing that you can look into, if you are pretty mechanically inclined, is swapping your entire rear axle assembly (from drum to drum) for a 3rd gen Tacoma axle with an elocker rear diff, assuming you find one for a good deal (i.e., less than $1500), and the same gear ratio.

It would be a huge pain in the butt to do it by yourself, so you’d want a completely empty weekend and a buddy to help you. I’ve done it, and can give you a few tips, and can point you in the right direction to acquire and install the wiring harness to operate the elocker.

 

I mean, you are correct when you say OME shocks are bulletproof. They are good shocks from that standpoint, but we tend to change our minds about our preferred ride height, or the amount of weight we want to carry, and reconfiguring OME’s by buying new coil springs every time gets expensive and is a hassle to change out.

 

Fair enough.



Personally, my 2887 front spring are staying for good. I set up the truck exactly how I wanted and done "modding" it.


I actually wanted 5100s in the first place, but the shop owner recommended me OME. Said it was designed for 3G and its better. I mean, its my fault that i listened to him. I should've done my research, lesson learned. Would be nice to have that extra 3/4" of downtravel.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9s271Ln-6QI

 

Caveat for the above test: they were all done on a stock weight truck. The results might be different for a heavier weight truck.