Long Travel BS Thread

nah i like the carriage bolt idea cause you could bolt it up into and have a somewhat rounded head to help from catching but could still cut the head off if you had to with press in studs you would have to drill the stud out which would be way harder.

 

Nothing wrong with carriage bolts. But a dude only has 2 hands, and you know how that can go trying to hold, align, put hardware on and tighten all at once.

 

I agree, fitting up can be rough… and a spud wrench or ratchet makes the process easier.

$20 Lichamp Spud Ratchet Wrench with Hammer Head, 3/8" x 1/2" Drive Dual Head Construction Ratcheting Wrench, Podger Scaffold Wrench 12.4", Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R42GSQS

 

you telling me you’ve never used your head to keep things up and aligned before? Lmao

 

@IvanhoeTaco in your neck of the woods. About halfway between Wrightsville and Carolina beach, looking across the ICW at Masonboro island.

 

Head, shoulder, elbow, knee. Yep been there lol. Hate it every damn time too!

 

1/8 inch aluminum for bumper skids?

 

1/8" will prevent gravel and sticks from getting to your winch, radiator, etc, but it will cave and tear out on any bigger contacts. I'm using 1/8 aluminum on my filer panels. It's thick enough to not need any forming to give it rigidity, but still light weight. If the word "skid" is in the mix, I'd go 1/4" minimum unless there's substantial bracing and support behind it.

 

Took a break from tubbing and finally mounted the bedsides to the bed cage

 

i feel like it hasn't quite been a work session on the truck if i haven't used my face to push the skid plate up in place....lmao

 

I'm sorry to say, but this will still rub, pretty much guaranteed. Not sure if you did this, but you need to remove the bumps and cycle as far as you can until it physically can't go any more, then tub around 1.5" further than that, because that's how much the frame flexes.

 

The correct bump stops that I needed are about 1.5" longer than what I cycled with. On the steering stops and everything. Basically cut as close as I wanna get to the door hinges. Time will tell but I think they fit. Idk just with my measurements haha

 

Agreed.

 

Has anybody in here successfully used the JD inners with a stock width setup and 37’s?

I have my old inners sitting on the shelf and am considering using them for the wife’s 37 build. But I have some doubts on them working or not.

 

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ABS Eliminatus. I finally took the ABS actuator out of my truck using two-T fittings to connect the lines. I haven't had abs in years and the abs and brake light in the dash have been on. I'm tired of looking at it. But I would like the parking brake light to come on when the parking brake is engaged. Has anyone connected the parking brake switch (pbs) at the parking brake directly to the brake light in the combo meter? The pbs is just a grounding switch and the light in the dash should come on with power. I have the ewd and the brake light is a B-W wire coming out of the combo meter. On another note, we thought the plug on the ABS actuator would have to be connected to something to have functions working, turns out the plug unplugged many, many miles ago. I have my speedo connected directly to a speed sensor I installed in the transfer case.

 

I connected a standalone LED I mounted on the dash to my parking brake plug. IIRC the parking brake completes a ground circuit so I believe I pulled 12v+ just from an add a fuse.

 

This was thought #2 and just tape over the brake light in the combo meter. It's a simple circuit and should be able to send 12v to the B-W wire from the grounded pbs.

 

You should also be able ground the signal wire for the light as well to shut it all off.