New England B.S. Thread

How about a small Apache case from HF?

 

Dean already overkilled any attempt from me or anyone else so I'll just leave it at that

My home safe philosophy has been for fire/water, not burglary. If someone wants to get into your stuff, they will. Why spend more and make life harder when they only need an extra 0.5 seconds to get into one that's uber rated, unless you get into spending $$$$$$$. Same as my philosophy on wheel lock nuts. If someone wants your wheel set, a wheel lock nut isn't stopping them. A kit with all the adapters is 40$ or so at Hazard Fraught. All you're doing is making it that much more annoying when you want to do anything.

A dry bag/stuff sack/other names might be a good idea to throw at it first for pretty cheap and see if it works.

https://www.rei.com/product/238956/...ode=evergreen_20offtext3&gStoreCode=110&gQT=1

 

A zip lock bag wrapped in duct tape

 

It ain't sealed per se but I just use a cheap drawstring dry bag.

 

Took a nap after work so now I'm up. Looking on the internet for truck parts and tools.

 

Now there's a hole with no bottom...

 

Can we get a wellness check on @CTSpruceMica ?

 

Im kind of stumped with this one and need some insulation/ venting help.

I am trying to insulate and properly vent the attic of my upstairs. House is a 1790 Cape that is not built like any sort of house today. The whole roof has 4 rafters per side (8-10 ft span between) that are either 8x6 or 10x6.

I am basically sold on doing an unconditioned attic space behind the knee wall because I will never be able to get good air sealing on the corner.

My main hangup now is how to vent the underside of the roof decking when have the ~4x4 perlins in the way to use typical rafter vents. It is my understanding with asphault shinges this must be done or they will fail prematurely. Roof must stay on as it is 3 years old but I am basically planning on gutting the interior.

There is currently no insulation or intentional venting in this part of the house. (there is plenty of unintentional venting)

 

Stay in your lane...

 

Prematurely fail… you telling me your roof is going to be hotter than a vented roof in Arizona… they get the same warranty. Worry more about ice dams. That is more of a concern around here. Melting snow and ice could dam up on the insulated/ non insulated line and suck.
Happy to help get it figured out for you. I’ll pm you a little later.

 

I was gunna just text you but typing on computer is easier....

 

I had a similar issue in my cape when we finished the second floor. We added a flat section at the peak of the ceiling to still allow air movement across to the end gable vents.

 

right but the perlins in jacks house run the opposite direction of conventional roof rafters.
his house is post and beam . altogether different type of construction.

 

Yep this is the main issue, how to vent the sloped cielings so ice dams don’t happen. I have 2 different ideas right now but curious what other people come up with.

 

I have my axles, strut mounts and upper control arms, got tracking on the hubs today, ordered rotors and an inner tie rod during lunch, picking up front axle seals on Saturday.

Wallet needs a breather.

 

jack whats the height of the knee wall?

 

Maybe dumb maybe smart question. What orientation (compass) is your house? Thinking about how the sun hits it, specifically the roof. Ours has a north facing driveway and the first 6 ish feet from the garage door out toward the road is never in the sun so it never melts. The north facing roof melts a lot slower than the back yard south facing.

 

About 3-4 feet

 

The rafters travel kind of southwest to northeast. I don’t think the sun has anything to do with ice dams. It’s more the interior heat melts the snow.

 

I would think the idea on the left would be more prone to ice dams.