AZ BS Thread 4²0

I was just fucking around. I am sure it was a fair price for him to do it. Its when going to a specialty shop pays off as they can hammer it out and know how to be profitable in doing it.

 

Yeah, he's a good guy, but engines aren't his thing. This shop seems to get good reviews, and they seemed honest over the phone

 

My man! That’s more like it!

For sure do research on the shop and make sure you are getting a solid warranty, but this sounds a lot closer to fair and reasonable.

 

Same warranty my scoutmaster could do, 12 months/12,000 miles. Its not like I will be able to bring it back anyways. Hopefully it goes well, I am going to take some of my stuff out and my skid plates off tonight and hopefully tow it tomorrow afternoon

 

That should be enough time for any issues from the (I assume) wreck or the install to surface.

 

From my previous post, the vacuum pump engines are for non-OR/Pro trims...do you plan on removing the vacuum pump and installing the cam sealing ball and block off plate?

 

Shit, I told him the wrong thing, I'm dumb. I remembered it as the OR having the pump. I will update again in a bit

 

They found me a 22,000 mile NON vacuum pump motor out of a 2021 Tacoma, the guy said it will be the same price. The other engine was out of a 2019, so this one will be a bit newer and a few less miles

 

Nice...still cheaper than another truck!

 

My guess for it being the same price is partly because he wants your business more than to nickel-and-dime you.

 

I've seen a lot of A&D contractors (more D than A to be fair) just be a total clownshow of dudes running taps bone dry and a salty ass jug of mystery loctite.

But you're absolutely right and I want to work somewhere where they do just that!

 

Reseal the front cover while it is out of the truck. It will leak soon from the lower passenger side and it will be more pain doing it in the truck vs out.
Replace the plastic oil filter housing with the aluminum Camry part right out the gate.
Get an oil catch can to help protect against hydrolock due to oil pooling in the head while on an incline.
Check rear plastic coolant crossover pipe for leaks as it is known to crack and be a pain to replace with the motor in the truck.
If the motor arrives and still has any amount of oil in it, ask them to drain or pump it into a clean container and send off to Blackstone Laboratory for analysis. It can tell you a lot for only $40.

 

I’ve read some horror stories about this, just swap to the metal one while it’s out!

 

There is no metal part available...plastic part was revised in 2018

 

Do you have part numbers for the stuff I need to get? I will talk with the shop when I get it towed tomorrow afternoon.

 

Good list, I have a slightly different take...

Front timing cover: The 2GR does like to leak on Bank 1 (PS) where the cover meets the block and the head (right by the vane pump), usually because the factory sealer was insufficient at this junction. Inspect it first for weep/leak, as well as the color of the sealer...gray is factory, while black would indicate the cover has already been resealed. Based on that, make the call if it's really even necessary...I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke" school of thought. This is an in-service engine and you could possibly introduce problems rather than solve them. ETA: This was mostly an issue with '16-'17...'18 and up are less prone.

Composite oil filter housing: Just fine if it isn't He-Man torqued and the o-ring is in the proper groove...the o-ring does the sealing, not tightening of the housing (spec is 18 ft/lbs). Inspect it for any signs of cracking near the wings, replace if necessary. Definitely pull it and do a fresh oil change with an OE filter, and a Blackstone analysis is cheap peace of mind.

Catch can: YES...I have the J&L OSC (fka JLT) on mine, but there are other options out there.

Rear crossover pipe: Prone to leaking on '16-'17, revised part in '18...definitely inspect for the dreaded pink crusties. ETA: if it ever does leak in the future, easy to replace when doing the next clutch.

Just my $0.02...YMMV

 

I agree with all of this.

 

Couple additions...

You *could* replace the spark plugs with new Denso FK20HBR8, although probably not needed. At the very least, pull the coils and check torque (13 ft/lbs)...

Only use Toyota SLLC pink coolant...no reason to use something that says "compatible" or worse, another color.

 

Or they simply need the work. Reading r/JustRolledIntoTheShop people are slow af right now.