What did you 3D print today?

Well I'll be damned. THAT IS the solution to the problem I made lol

Now, how about smokey?!

 

It's pretty simple in illustrator to make a svg vector from a logo.

 

I don't have that program, do you? I'd love to use the logo from ALTNPS

 

In zip

 

I don’t really know how it would work but just thinking outside the box. I’m also decently close to you. We met at hill farmstead I think.

 

Also I think it would end up weighing very similar to the gram. Instead of 0.050 wall plastic you use 0.015 wall stainless? In this small of part strength to weight doesn’t matter that much.

 

Thank You! That's PERFECT! I'm thinking this would also be great for some challenge coins too.

 

I don't have experience with fabbing metal, I'm sure there is a way. The link to the fourdog lid is the obvious solution here, and the price beats all other options. Appreciate the collective effort!

That visit @ Hill Farmstead was great to meet everyone! The snowshoe back to that bootleg camp was fun too, even though the snow was heavy and wet. Someday my kids will be rugged enough to try to get to the radar base in east haven-its quite a haul, but looks pretty cool!

 

Ordered a SunLu filament dryer to keep the PETG dry.

 

Drying a spool in mine right now.

Took some failures, but figured out how to do single-wall airplane prints using Overture Air PLA on the new AD5M. I had it dialed in on the bed slinger with a Bowden tube, but it took some odd settings to get it to work on the core XY. Air PLA (pre-foamed LW PLA) apparently does not like to print fast.

 

Update on my issue with brim and 1st layer lines being spaced out;

I've tried everything I can find on it, adjusted gantry, measured and adjusted head, shimmed bed even though its auto-leveling, reset everything to factory and started over, etc. and it still prints lines too spaced out on roughly half the bed. The only thing I've found that "mostly" resolves it is to heat soak the bed, reset z-offset (even if it doesn't actually change), and then run bed level calibration from the printer itself. Sometimes I need to do this every print, sometimes it might be fine for a couple prints. After doing this the first layer lays down pretty good. A few areas might see some small gaps in lines, but overall its not bad.

Another thing I've noticed lately is slim tree supports almost always fail. They look horrid and become such a globby mess that the nozzle will eventually hit and break the support away. Strong tree supports seem to print fine. This never used to be an issue until recently.

Once some other things are done I think I'll pick up a Bambu Labs P1S. I've had my eye on one for a little while now. The Ender V3 KE has been good for learning, but too finicky.

 

Latest print. Just screwn’ around. It’s for the Irish wife.

 

I had to go back and look at your pics. To me, things are pointing to something being physically off with your printer. You've done what you can with leveling and calibrating. The printer seems to be doing what it thinks is correct, but lines seem to be crunched together on the front right and spreading out toward the back left. So, where it *thinks* it is printing is not where it is actually printing.

First, I'd make sure everything is square between all the axes. I suspect that the boom for the print head may be twisted compared to the rest of the printer. The only other thing I can think of might be belt tension, but that pattern points to something being out of square.

 

I've been burned by so much Creality equipment printers/accessories. Elegoo Centauri Carbon is about to release their new printer too for $300 and looks like it's gonna be a solid choice for a corexy that's enclosed and produces quality prints it seems from reviews.

 

I may have a small problem. Purchased a P1S/AMS Combo almost exactly a month ago and have already turned into this. Have printed a bunch in the last few days/weeks, but am excited to try out some new stuff with the TPU.

Creality Space Pi Dryer (qty 2) and Filament dryer cabinet:


AMS (qty 2):


Way more filament than I'll need for awhile, not including the open spools in the AMS and cabinet (PLA, ABS, ASA-CF, PETG, TPU etc):

 

I've heard the TPU for AMS from bambu is hard as a rock, have you used it yet? Also curious your experience with the ASA-CF. I still need to order a roll or two to try printing some motorcycle body parts with. Currently printing some gridfinity bins to do my bathroom drawer I printed a stack of six grids the other day, alternating between PLA and PETG between each so they didn't stick together, it worked surpisingly well. Stuck while printing and then just cracked apart after it dried.

I also got in some BIQU plates yesterday and their LED upgrade kit. I got their cryogrip and a vanity plate with houndstooth and hexagon sides. I figured those'll be cool on body panels when I get to them.

 

I haven't gone quite that far, but damned close!

 

I have some, while it is hard, it is still somewhat flexible. I can bend it quite a bit and can't break it, unlike PLA.

 

That's a lot of filament. Careful with that wood PLA. Seems like most people suggest using a 0.6mm nozzle. I clogged a 0.4mm almost immediately.

 

And NO RETRACTIONS even with the .6