2006 Tacoma 1GR-FE Engine Swap

I apologize for my ignorance, what's ECT and A/F? This is a snapshot at point of shutdown.

 

Could it be a clogged exhaust? Mechanic said there was a bunch of gunk that got kicked out when he first tried to start the swapped engine.

 

was this with the engine off?

 

As it died. It's only on for like 8 seconds.

 

I went ahead and ordered a URD fuel pump with external filter. Original with over 220k miles.

 

So the engine was OFF?
If so, that MAF reading is way high for an engine NOT running,.

Give us all 5 pages of Data with engine OFF.

 

I took that pic just as it dying, so it was running.

 

Ok. Can we still get the data with Engine OFF?
All 5 pages.

You scanner shows page 1/5.
Be nice to see all 5 pages.

 

Images from the live data

 

So, I was able to replace the fuel filter and pump. It runs longer but still dies. It also sounds like there’s a leak in the evap system near the brake booster.
https://youtube.com/shorts/7T__gHg8TMI?feature=share

 

Pinch off/plug the brake booster hose and see if it still dies.

 

I've done this and it dies just as quickly.

 

Are any of the hoses getting reused/ old or are they new? Dry rot/ cracked hoses will be problematic with vacuum lines.

 

These are all the original hoses. Does anyone have a good tutorial on how to troubleshoot vacuum lines?

 

Best test for vacuum leaks is a smoke test.

 

Get replacement hose line at auto store pretty cheap. Good piece of mind.

 

Thank you for the suggestion. I figured I would go ahead and replace all the hoses since they are original. Someone in another post recommended that I check the check valve that is attached to the brake booster. I did blow it out, and there was some debris. However, it does sound like it is Leaking. If you watch the video I posted.

 

Can your scan tool show crank position sensor signal, and intake camshaft signals?

 

Not sure. This is the one I bought:
https://www.innova.com/products/sd3...fBnR7YDkuxJDmqVLRd8y1xtX2I2ccMkyMu3bMcWpsK-9o
I'm trying to lookup that capability.

 

You would need an oscilloscope to see cam/crank correlation but in all likelihood it would set cam/crank codes if there was an issue with timing or a sensor.

Could unplug the cam sensors just to see if it stays running, it should run on the crank sensor alone.