What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I'm sure someone in here knows this answer, I've never looked that hard.

Does the fender support... the arm that comes from the fire wall to the headlight, that the fender bolts to... is that part of the cab? Or does that unbolt? (Can you replace it?)

 

It does not unbolt. But I with enough spot weld drilling and a shitload of rivnuts you could probably make it removable although it might compromise strength unless you are caged out there and the core support wasn't really supporting the cab anymore

 

Those are kind of fubar on the 4 Runner. I kind of thought they didn't come off. I'm going to do an engine cage on it. I may need to rebuild that structure with smaller tubing branching off the engine cage. That's going to be a pain in the ass, lol. A tone of shit bolts to that.

 

Another question... lol

Has anyone done a proper write up on an ABS delete? I've been fortunate, with my truck, I've never had to deal with that garbage.... It needs to go in the trash can

 

Pull the bulb, pull the lines, make new shorter lines. Kinda all there is to it. The lines part numbers are in a few write ups on here but I'm fairly sure they're different on the 4Runner. They're easy enough to make yourself anyway.

 

I deleted the ABS from my double cab. Wish I hadn't in retrospect, but you just pull the brain out and replace the hard lines. I was able to fine lines from a 4runner in a junk yard.

This is a massive post but shows everything I did: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...kensteins-helper.390488/page-12#post-14150175

Wish I'd just pulled the fuse though so I could have it for when the Mrs drives it in the snow.


Also the front wheel wells are commonly known as "aprons". I also wish they were replaceable. Found that out the hard way when I rolled the truck.

 

Right on! Thank you. Even if 4 Runner is a bit different, it should be the same principle.

As far as ABS goes, I've never had it in the truck, and never needed it. Rain, snow, all of it. The Runner is for my wife, and she's a better driver than I am, lol. The ABS is going to have to go one way or another. The spindles I'm building don't have the ports in them, and the rear axle will be custom, like I just did to the Tacoma. I'm not going to try to figure out how to make ABS work with it.


"Aprons" That sounds like an accurate name for them. Thank you! It looks like I may be needing to make my own aprons, to get everything to be a bit more solid than it is. Why in the heck would they not make those removable? (rhetorical question). The aprons are actually, probably, the exact reason this thing has a salvage title.

 

Just doing a bit of searching. I may just do this.

https://www.linestogo.com/products/...jyV7SSTB9LzldE835bUrc-EK3VNlEWEhoCk8kQAvD_BwE



Basically, it's all the lines for a 3.4 Tacoma DC w/o ABS. Sure, there are a few lines I wont need, but this should cover all the hardlines I would need. And then just run them the same way as the truck. I'd probably add a manual proportioning valve, like the truck, while I'm at it.

In some of the other reading I've done, the master cylinder may also need to be changed. But, I think I'd need to do that anyway. This will get Lexus front brakes and 4th Gen 4 Runner rear, also like the truck.

I want to go bigger with the MC in the truck. I just haven't spent the time to figure out what bigger MC I should go with. (same would apply here.)

 

I tried a larger MC and all that as well. Might be in that same post(again it's long). I did not like it. I went back to the 13/16th with single diaphragm booster. Much better pedal feel(more pressure) vs the larger one with dual diaphragm which is more volume(less pressure).

Yeah if aprons get damaged usually its a total from insurance companies. Some companies made them removable, think chevy trucks or same era ones are. some old ford cars too. It's a lot faster to have a robot spot weld them on though than bolts so yeah.

The ABS can be quite aggressive and a PITA in hard offroad sections. Hit or miss. That's why I took mine out. But wish I'd just made it "optional" ha Not a huge deal either way.

 

I don't think I've seen anyone come up with a magic bullet up grade for the MC. Everyone thinks bigger brakes, you automatically have to go bigger MC, but the problem is bigger MC means a drop in actual pressure (like you said).

 

I think it's only really needed if you are getting some SERIOUS calipers. Like 6 pistons fuckers or something.

Otherwise. Not really needed.

You'll also notice with the tundra swap some say the pedal gets soft and other say its great. The folks that say it's soft are the folks with the larger MC and dual diaphragm booster(95-00). 01-04 are always happy. (obviously some are happy with the larger MC dual booster combo, but in general the folks not as happy are running that combo. Its not that it doesn't work, it just feels softer).

 

I think I'm just used to soft feeling brakes. Some people complain about how the pedal feels. (At least they did when I had Tundra brakes). I thought it felt fine. I do know that on this Runner, after we did the Tundra swap, the pedal felt more firm than mine did.

But, now that I've done the proportion valve and increased the size of all the brakes, again, it seems fine to me. I know the brakes will stop me in double 4 low... so that's something.

 

A couple months ago we were talking power steering pumps. I think a coupke people mentioned rebuilding yours.

If you've rebuilt your PS pump, did you use OEM parts? Or parts store parts. If you used OEM rebuild kit, do you have a part number?

I can't find an OEM kit. Maybe I'm missing it.

5vzfe

 

Doing valve cover gaskets and I believe I caused my fuel injector to leak when I was wiggling the electrical connector free. Struggled to get this one off. Not positive that it wasn’t already leaking and not related to me though. Really don’t want to touch the fuel lines if I don’t have to. Anyone ever ran into this before? Can I check if this might leak somehow?

 

I pinched a couple of the O rings when I swapped new injectors in. If you turn the key on it'll pressurize the fuel system and you should be able to see if it's leaking

 

I mean technically the 4runner comes in at 500lbs heavier starting off but I still think you would be fine with the 8". Tons of fat pig second gens out there doing fine on the e-locker 8". for the build thread.

 

Lmao... The Tacoma may start out life lighter than the 4 Runner, but my fat assed beast will definitely stay heavier. The plan is to take some weight off the Taco. Probably, mostly the fridge, food, supplies, cooking stuff, water, ice chest(s) etc. Having the second vehicle also frees up room so it's easier for us to take the doggos.

The Tacoma will still carry the RTT, Jerry cans, trail spares, tools etc. The Tacoma also has the rear winch, truck boxes, rack, etc, etc.


As far as the 9.5 vs 8 inch. I've got a little while to figure that out. Plenty of other things I'll need to address lol... The 4 Runner is going to be a bit of a project. It's a bit clapped out. But being that I'll build the axle as full float, I think the 8 inch would be adequate. Being as the 9.5 and 8 inch both have the same spline count, the only thing that get's stronger with the 9.5 is the ring and pinion. I don't think I was ever anywhere near damaging my ring and pinion with my semi float stock e-locker. The main thing I was looking to accomplish with building the rear axle was to get it full float. The weight of the truck was my concern on the semi float. Plus a full float is WAY more serviceable on the trail. I can replace an axle shaft without even removing the wheel. And if I have a wheel bearing go out, I could also replace that on the side of the trail.

There's already a build thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...so-ill-build-it-for-the-lil-mrs-build.653030/ (I take over the build on page 4, but there are a few things we did prior to that).

I'll also be making a playlist of the build on the YouTube. I haven't posted much on YT for a little while, but I do have a bunch of content that I need to edit and post.

https://www.youtube.com/@TheVentureBeyond

 

I'm sure this has been covered before in detail but my brain is fried after a day of work and I'm trying to finish an Icon add-a-leaf installation on my 2001 4x4 doublecab. The passenger side installation went smoothly but I've got the leaf pack assembled on the driver's side and I can't manage to get the centering pin into the spring perch. This is the first time I'm doing anything with leaf springs so I'm sure this is just a question of experience - is there some trick to getting the pin to drop into the perch? Pulling on the axle moves the entire truck almost as much as it moves in relation to the leaf pack so far, although I've been doing it with the passenger side wheel on so maybe it should be removed.

 

Sounds like careful encouragement with a heavy hammer or some thoughtfully-applied ratchet straps might help?

 

Thanks! Ratchet strapping did the job perfectly.