Cargo lights won’t turn off

I’ll try my best to source a Denso relay locally and hook it up today to see if the issue persists.

 

If the switch is the issue, are there any physical signs inside the switch assembly I should look for?

 

I have some chase lights hooked up on some bed bars.
I have the relay in the rear cubby....need to do some waterproofing. After the carwash yesterday the chase lights were coming on with the switch off.
After disconnecting the switch, the lights would still come on.

The relay is either wet or frozen or both.

I just pulled the in-line relay fuse until I can seal up the cubby better.

 

While I was inside the cubby area I didn’t notice any signs of moisture, I haven’t installed any aftermarket lighting or other electrical mods. I did replace the windshield a few months into ownership back in 2021 but I would’ve already noticed moisture if that were a potential culprit.

 

I still think your relay might be faulty or one of the switch wires is shorting out.
It has a low current which goes to your switch and a high current that powers your lights. Low current is only for flipping the relay to high current.

So there IS current always going to your relay. Something has to tell the relay to switch over and if the switch isn't doing it, what is?
It could be faulty or sticking.

 

Can you dumb this one down for ya boy?

 

got multimeter?
the picture is the back of the switch. Apply multimeter's probs to pins to test the resistance at different positions to rule out the switch
Switch in Off position should turn off Cargo light. If lights are on with switch in Off, something wrong with the switch or the blue wire gets grounded somewhere after the switch and energizing the relay

 

follow this.

 

Thanks for the explanation and yes I have a multimeter, will test it once I get home from work and update the thread. Thank you sir.

 

Will do.

 

Check the under side of your fuse/relay panel, you may have some corrosion that is causing a "soft" short that is feeding just enough power to the control circuit to pull the relay in. If that isn't it, start tracing the control wire from the switch to the relay, looking for an intermittent short.

 

I’ll definitely check that out, thanks.

 

Just go carefully with testing circuits. Main body ecu is expensive.

 

So my truck battery is drained, gonna see if the key stored in the fob can be used to unlock it. Sooo does this rule out the switch? I left it disconnected and locked the truck. I went out today and wham it’s dead which means constant power is flowing somewhere.

 

Battery removed, gonna take it to Toyota and hope it’s covered under warranty. First 24 months are free replacement and it’s only 3 weeks old.

 

They may want the battery in the truck to test. Even if they do replace the battery, a new one isn't going to help if the light (or other items) are draining it.
I would bring them the whole truck and have them properly diagnose what is going on.

GL

 

Yeah I figured most I’m going to get is a charge. Sadly, my only local dealer isn't the brightest with diagnostics.

 

I know it's a hassle, but I would give them another chance at it, if you are not comfortable properly diagnosing. Or drive it to a dealer further out.

 

CGLP reads 003 with the multimeter set to the 20k ohm setting.