Long Travel BS Thread

Next couple of weeks. Needed to order new shock tabs because these are 1.5 inches wide instead of the 1.25 that on now. They show up midweek. Then its starting all over and breaking down the leaf packs to cycle it to see where everything needs to be welded.

 

Let me know I will tag along.

 

Joe and I should be out at OW the weekend of april 11-13. I'll kep you in the loop.

 

Jealous, I wanna be back down there so bad

 

Well hell i will be in Seattle April 8th - 15th.

 

Did someone say 1,600 PSI at engine idle?

And something about no bullshit shims that make you want to punch babies?

 

Is this ur own bracket or the quixotic?

 

My own. This is not a TC pump

 

@snowsk8air2 how the actual fuck do you unwrap your truck lmao

 

I remember seeing the thread or post about that. The factory seam sealer is no joke. That stuff ignites when you plug the welder in.

 

Driver side done. So glad to be done with that tedious bull shit. Fuck that sheet metal.

 

Consider me uneducated here, so I gotta ask, what’s the solution then? Just grinding off as much as possible or is it just like asbestos where it’s a risk no matter the situation?
I didn’t have any issues on my 3rd gen cutting out the footwell but I did have leaks in heavy rain afterwards

 

I did a mixture of grinding off with a respirator on and a knife. I tried to remove as much with a knife before having to grind/ sand back the seam sealer. A bit tedious but a necessity.

 

I think I'm starting to feel the consequence of wearing no respirator

 

man I caught my firewall insulation on fire welding a little bracket on to hold my clutch line when I did my swap… had it on the lift and was like ah two tacks no biggie… got done and saw smoke from the truck. Luckily I could open the door on the lift but stupidly had just taken my gloves off… imbedded a bit of the melting plastic into my right hand that day…was not one of my finer moments…lol

 

A grinder will melt it. On might be different on a newer truck, but on my 18 year old truck, a scraper and some pliers were good enough to peel most of it off. A wire wheel would clean up most of the residue after that if you can access the area.

Also, I'm no chemist, but there must be something different between the paint colors. My blue paint seems to be able to catch fire, but a buddies silver tacoma's paint just blistered on the backside of the panels we welded.

 

Anyone have experience with different types of no loss schrader valve chucks on the market?

Was helping a friend that had trail gear bumps and the chuck bottoms out on the bottom of the valve before sealing at the top. I had a hell of a time trying to refill them since the schrader valve wasn’t long enough.

Never had that issue on any other bumps or shocks I have messed with but my experience is limited. Don’t know if maybe the power tank no loss chuck would be better or if nobody else has ever had this issue then maybe it’s just a trail gear problem.

I have this style chuck, they seemed like the standard when I looked around.

 

There is a little copper seal inside the chuck. If it falls out it would cause that problem. The seal does deteriorate over time faster when you tighten the shit out of it a lot.

 

Copper is still there, and I double checked that it would still seal up with some other valves I had no problem, none of the valve options I had were the same thread as the body to just swap to a longer valve.

tried to throw in an o ring against the copper to seal it but it wouldn’t seal so I ground down the bottom of the chuck until it would seal

 

Its pretty much the same as what you were already using, but preece precision is my go-to for anything higher pressure than an air compressor.