Prime example of rear bearing hack job!

Since iv'e had this truck my drivers rear axle seal has been leaking and got really bad from heavy use last month. I Had other repairs that were more important. So lately I gathered all special tools, parts and such to do rear bearings. When I pulled it apart I found a prime example of why you should really make sure whoever you get to do your rear bearings and seals knows what they are doing. They were off a 1/2 inch on the collar placement so the seal on my hub was on axle not collar that's 1st pic. The 2nd pic is correct and compliments of @turbodb in his awesome rear bearing job write up, thank you sir. Just wanted to let people know how you could waste money if not careful. That whole job negated by 1/2 inch mistake creating leaky mess and jeopardizing my diff. Beware do your own repair if possible.

 

Dang that sucks. I had the exact same experience. Stopped at a recommended shop and guy told me that he had to make his own tools to do Toyota rear seals. Really talked himself up. He wasn't 1/2" off but he was off enough that it leaked (both sides) and I had to do it again myself. Wasted $700. Isn't there supposed to be a retainer/spacer pressed on one side of the sealing surface? I think I flipped mine over and reused it but it's been a few years...

 

A lot of shops simply don't know.

Honestly its silly how toyota did it, I'm not excusing the shop but I hate having to teach new guys how to do this when every other brand you just press and go.

 

Yeah that sucks bucks down the drain. This was previous owners repair, I was dealing with the leak for a minute the whole truck has been a project but all good. Yes there is another collar in the sandwich between bearing and ABS speed sensor ring. So it goes bearing-collar-snapring-sensor ring-collar. They just pressed it way to far. Tommorrow I'm going to press em all out and install new bearing and collars and seal. Spent today disassembling and pressure washing brakes, drum and tire oily mess.

 

I watched Timmy's video explaining how to measure the seal surface to center the seal, I was like dang no wonder the shop screwed it up.

 

5mm on the polished surface your in the know.

 

This varies a little bit; was 3mm for me. But, if you get it close and just use the sharpie method to see where the seal is running on the retainer, it's easy to adjust to the correct location, quickly.

 

Dang. This is why I do my own work.

 

It's not a big deal, but your retainer is backwards, the tapered end is supposed to face inwards to allow the seal to pass over it.

 

It is technically backwards, however due to the new seal design, backwards is better™. Maybe. At least it can't hurt. (there's background on the seal redesign and the flipping of the retainer in the step-by-step, if you're curious. For most, probably TLDR.)

 

Odd never saw that TSB, really all that matters is where the seal lands on the retainer. I always install it at a "safe" depth then do the mark method using silaglyde.

I wonder why the direction matters beyond installing, you'd think the tapered would benefit any seal.

I won't change my method now, too old haha

 

When i did this I went back to the shop 3 times to finally get the collar on in the right place. This guy I went to has a lot of knowledge with trucks. He does a lot of 4x4 related stuff. Has been in the business for many years. When he pressed everything on the first time it was totally off. I had to tell him he needed to back out a bit in order for the seal to run on the collar. He had no idea what i was saying until I finally showed him. Even then he still did not understand. I wouldve done this myself but did not have a press or that tool. As mentioned above most shops dont know how these collars are pressed in.