Long Travel BS Thread

Check if there are bulbs or if they’re still good

 

Brand New everything. Not sure what's up

 

My chuck worked fine for locked bumps funny enough. It is close to having too short of a valve to seal though. Maybe threaded bumps have a different valve?

I think I was more pissed that out of all the schrader valves I have for locked, ORI and King, there still wasn’t a thread that would work with the trail gear bumps.

 

We are so back

 

I reread your og on the TG, and realized your problem was the opposite of the Locked short valves. The other problem I had was space for the no loss because of the bottom of the Coil Bucket that I notched out. I really didn't want to take anymore material out of the bucket. Even if it would seat on the Schrader, I wouldn't be able to open the T.
The extension works OK because I had to collapse the bumps recently to remove and reboot my CVs. Putting pressure back in is a tedious process though. Gotta be a better solution.

 

Oh he’s definitely on a no screwing around basis. I can’t imagine the costs of HT on an entire chassis.

 

do you get power at the socket?
go from the positive terminal on each socket, with a multimeter, with the other multimeter lead, jumped to the negative battery.
if you have voltage, this means your issue is a grounding problem.
if not, then your problem is a power supply.

 

Don't have air bumps so don't have experience, but are you saying that the schrader valves on all these different brand bumps are different?

 

Well made it 15 miles and another alternator shit itself and my brother's truck blew a radiator.

I don't know why the fuck my new alternator shit the bed.

 

what brand? and unless its a manufacturer defect you've definitely got something screwey going on.

 

OEM alternator. It was off a totaled truck but i tested it before hand to make sure it works.

 

oh, would definitely say a wiring issue in your truck than.

 

I hate electrical shit. Still on the side of the road waiting for a trailer and taking it to a shop right after

 

Be prepared to open that wallet. With the amount that’s been done, finding it is going to be a needle in a haystack.

 

Yeah with all the recent fab work my brain immediately was thinking something melted or got hit with some feedback

 

Good news everyone
(Prof farnsworth voice)

truck should be in my possession tomorrow afternoon.
Assuming the weather doesn’t delay or cause issues haha

Anyone need the big 3 items?

frame?
Whole drivetrain (25k miles)
Cab?

or… does anyone want it? Title available?

no shocks or parts will be included unless otherwise agreed upon.

not trying to price gouge but definitely putting it back into the build budget

 

The shop it's going to has a $225 diagnose fee. I hope I didn't fuck up too bad and need a whole new harness or something

 

Any shop that has a set diag fee is a red flag. Electrical issues like this can take a day or more to figure out.

Though they may just charge the diag fee and say replace the entire chassis/engine harness.

 

I’ve seen shops use it as a minimum, then roll it into the repair cost.

Keeps people from taking their car to a shop to see what’s wrong, getting a free diagnostic, then repairing it themselves.

 

A legit shop is T&M the second you hand the keys over. No ifs ands or buts about it. It’s how we always ran things. It built us a phenomenal reputation for accuracy on repairs. Unfortunately the new owners shit on it and went flat rate. Oh well.