1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

They're present but nothing is quite like knock sound wise. Just use some good headphones

 

Ok so 4 new things:
1. Found out my A/C really does not work well with the e-throttle idle control. I'll need to do the change from the switch to the compressor kick-on
2. Found a huge vacuum leak on my wastegate - the hose barb had backed out. Who knows what that was doing to my boost controller.
3. Tried adding a feature my Golf has, which is a little kick to the throttle as you take your foot off the brake from a stop to get you rolling. Did achieve the trigger set (via 3-4 conditionals/timers), however there's no way to implement it since the Haltech only accepts sensor inputs as idle ups, and DBW 0% has to be 0%. I found a hack to get it to accept a table of 0% = 5% on a conditional axis, but then it disabled my whole DBW system lol.
4. (this is the one I need help with) I tried setting up flat foot shifting but it's not working. Specifically, this table does not change gears so I'm not even sure it's the correct axis to be using?

 

Thought there was one person in here running flat foot. @garetcurry was that you? Any help on the above?

 

I... don't think that's me? Sorry man.

 

Random info drop, for anyone that wants full coil on plug for the 5VZ, the coils from a 3MZ are a direct fit, no modifications required to them other than you have to come up with some way to secure them down to the VC, but they're the right length, dia, and the coil head isn't too big to fit in any of the holes like with some options. This same knowledge for the 1FZ-FE (not that anyone here but me is concerned with that) is that 2GR-FE coils are a perfect fit.

 

Remind me of the benefits other than saving spark plug life? I think I have the extra outputs but I am definitely running scarce

 

Direct control over coil dwell, no Toyota smart ignitor in the way and hotter spark since it isn't being split over two paths to ground and has to fire 1/2 as often which makes a big difference at higher RPM. If you're not having spark blowout issues then it is a non issue most likely other than plug wear. It's a pretty cheap option to go full coil on plug all things considered though with quality OEM parts so it is a nice upgrade that shouldn't sacrifice reliability.

 

So I could raise the spark gap basically?

 

Yeah you should be able to. How small is your gap right now? I've found about .030-.032 is the right zone for mine, about the time it gets to .04 I start having breakup occasionally.

 

I can't remember. Hopefully I wrote it on the underside of the hood haha. I felt like it was low 0.03s, maybe in the 2s... or maybe I'm thinking of the Golf... think that's at 0.028.
I do remember in the beginning I had to lower it quite a bit due to blow out though.

 

Off topic but I saw you released the source code for your CAN gauges, does that mean you've stopped development on it?

 

Ya, I haven't touched it in months. That was the early code, I never finished a working version of the Full sensor compatible one. Nobody really seems to need/want the more obscure readings anyways. I may switch gears here and see if I can do some CAN inputs though since I need them.
I really wish I could get the stupid Rpi Picos SPI buses to work...with anything. I bought some e-ink displays the other week and spent nearly an entire Saturday trying and modifying various libraries and nada

 

No worries, was just curious, they work well for what they are. I have a buddy that is a much better programmer than myself that I was considering asking to modify the code for a few things. I'm personally not a massive fan of the full gauge cluster replacements but I like the little pods in strategic areas so they're worth it to modify a bit IMO.

 

Like what?

 

I think it may be doing downshifts but not upshifts. Yesterday truck almost died when the trans downshifted into first after a corner as I floored it. Hard to tell exactly without logs. So I think what happened was: throttle open in 2nd -> downshift to first / throttle blip -30% / MAP prediction to 100% -> super rich at low effective throttle -> RPM tanks under rich misfire. But that just adds to my MAP prediction issues too...lots of those I haven't talked much about.

 

MAP prediction tuning is always fun, lots of things we fill in with traditional async transient as well

 

#1 There seems to be a lot of overshoot/undershoot for any given driving condition. Think it's getting worse as my MPGs keep getting worse over time. I'm thinking I'll move the O2 sensor upstream as it should be before I start really looking into it to try and reduce the time delay.
#2 I have significant issues when engine is cold, to the point of dying a few times when I back out of the driveway and press the throttle for the first time (both before and after e-throttle). MAP-P doesn't seem to be the sole cause though. Once it's warmed up, no such issues. I have actually noticed higher MAP to do the same work when cold - makes sense with the oils and such, just interesting to see it.

 

There's a lot of work necessary to make sure it activates at the proper time and of course the map it's working with needs to be tuned properly. There's enough off the typical baseline about your tune that I wouldn't be able to point at any one single thing that would help.

 

Map keeps tunin' heh.. VE (to my chagrin) keeps knocking down several percentage points through boost every time I accept LTFT changes. In the high 90%s through about 8psi iirc

I see lambda drop to the 0.6s when I'm doing throttle blips... a problem

 

You're probably going to need to tune your VE map by hand STFT and LTFT are for correcting a mostly correct map for small inaccuracies and regular sway from environmental and wear factors. Not for writing your map for you.