Let's see your FJ case swap

Since you have an R155F you need to heat up the coupler and remove it so the 23 spline female output on your trans mates up to the male 23 spline input on the transfer case.
I used propane torch and channel locks to pull it off

 

Sweeeeeeet thank you!!

 

negative

 

Why not? Im so confused lol

 

when you pull the old one, you can see what you need to do. both should be 23 spline. if one is longer than the other, move the one over you need.

 

I think this was asked an answered about two weeks ago, but just like last time, you're getting different answers from different folks.

Please correct me if I am wrong guys...

What @wrmathis and @BassAckwards are saying is that the couplings might be different lengths, but you won't really know till you pull it apart. If they are different you should switch them.

@6 gearT444E suggested that it might not matter either way if there's enough spline on trans output to handle the extra length.

When you get it apart, assess what you've got going on, take some measurements and some pics of the trans output, post them here and I'm sure a handful of us will give you our thoughts. You've either got the space for the longer coupler or you don't.

 

Yes i took some time to go through older messages and what you said makes sense ill do that thank you !

 

This is what I've read and watched as well. I'm going into expecting to have to swap them. Just due to the length difference. There is alot of conflicting info, between the 5spd and 6spd.

 

from what i understand, the 5sp manual and the auto have the same output. its the 6spd that is the weird outlier.

 

Yep.

 

Finally have my swap all done as of tonight (minus the shift boot, at least), the module from Experimental Designs finally came with the custom harness that bridged all the necessary wires for the swap all in one go and without any cutting or splicing whatsoever.

Conclusion: Super, super happy with it! I was able to drive it some last week when there was still cold and snowy and easily verify everything functions as it should. I've probably got about 160 miles or so logged now, still need to get an alignment before it goes back to full time duty (replaced all my suspension and steering at the same time). No vibrations (at least at 75 or less), however I was getting a little "growl" at around 50-55. But either I am crazy, or it is gone now..not sure what that could have been, but, not complaining.

Only outstanding thing is the console, as the transfer case shifter hits it pretty solidly in low range. I tried shifting the transmission mount over to the driver's side as well as the crossmember, which helped a tiny bit, but still doesn't fully clear it, and the lever does rattle and squeak. It does clear at the rear when in 4-unlocked, so I am probably going to just trim 1/2" or so off of the opening on that side if I can't get the console shifted over a bit, and then work on getting a boot back in.

Thanks again for everyone's help - and when I have some time to get pictures and such, I will throw together a post to collect all this in one place for future reference..

 

Link for the wiring harness?

 

It's not on his site, we just worked it out over some emails confirming what pins to jump and ensuring the FJ related wiring wouldn't interfere with the locker stuff. Not being a normal product there was some time involved with needing to get the right connectors and such, but it all went together quickly and looked very well made, really glad I went this route over cutting and splicing! Anyway, ping him (Joshua) here: https://experimentalinc.com/pages/contact

 

What harness did he make for you?

 

@moon22 did you end up doing the AWD swap?

 

He made a locker anytime module and built in the 4WD/4Lo/ADD pin jumps I needed to get the ABS and related systems back online. This may only be necessary for OR models with the hydroboost system however.

Yep!

 

Nice! That is awesome!

 

Yep, only non-OEM part in the entire swap, other than the interior shift boot I'll have made when I have time for little details like that; other than cutting a hole in the floor, it was all plug and play. When I do the wrap-up post I'll attach a cut template & drawing for the cut to use the FJ lower boot.

 

I was going to ask how you covered the hole on the floor.

 

I know it probably been said on here before but I threw a FJ case into my 2nd gen. Wired up the dash lights and stuff but now my factory rear locker won’t work? Could it be because I did the ADD delete? The diff lock light just blinks and nothing happens. Yes I’m in 4low trying it.