My kid lost interest so I'll build it for the Lil Mrs. build

He's beefing up that front xmember so much, because he ripped that entire bitch off the frame at Baja last year lol (The OEM xmember)


100000% Agree. ADD is totally garbage. The intermediate shaft would 100% be manual style. And then my plan would be to do Toyota Truck solid axle manual hub dials that are 30 spline.

 

I get what you're saying about the bump steer. But here's how I'm looking at it. (And I may be totally wrong).

Say the ITRE/OTRE... (I'm going to call that links, because that's what it will actually be)

Ok, say at stock ride height, the links are 15°

Then you add a lift, the links are now at, say 25°

If you kept the lift, and lowered the rack X amount, that would put you at, say 20°

The way I'm looking at it is if you lowered the rack on a lifted truck you'd essentially be taking some of the bump steer away.

Am I missing a part?



Here's some petroglyphs I doodled.

 

the control arms determine the arc that the hub will travel in. When you lift they will ride at a more extreme angle, but it is still on that same arc. To minimize bump steer this arc that the hub travels should match the arc that the tie rod travels.

when you move the rack down .5”, it shifts the arc that the tie rod travels down .5”

I personally don’t think it will have a big enough effect on anything to be able to tell the difference, so I would say proceed if that’s what you would like, but it will change bump steer.

if you moved the control arm inner mounting points down .5” as well those two arcs would match up again and you would have the same bump steer as stock.

 

I think I found a close example to what I'll do for the rear bumper.

 

Now it totally makes sense

 

Food for thought note to future self

2nd Gen Tundra / Sequoia = 9 inch ADD front diff
2007-2019

Land Cruiser 200 = 9 inch front diff no ADD

 

Ok. So, I haven't really made any updates, because I really haven't had much time to do anything on the Runner lately.

I finished welding the slider legs to the base pads, and then fully welded the sliders to the frame.

I picked up the steel to build the rear bumper. And some poster board to make templates for the bumper brackets.

I need to do the 1 inch body lift. Started working on that today, and discovered a few of the body mount bolts are rusted inside the sleeves. So, I'm going to have to cut them up. Which isn't going to work with the SRQ puck body lift kit. (Because you use the OEM bushing sleeves and body mounts instead of replacing the whole mount).

So, I ordered an Energy Suspension 1 inch kit that replaces everything. I think I'm going to be more happy with that anyway. The poly body mounts will stiffen things up.

If anyone is interested in an SRQ 1 inch body lift let me know lol.

Hopefully Summit Racing gets that body lift kit out quickly. I normally get pretty quick shipping from them.

I need the body lift before I start doing the back bumper, so I can make sure I don't have the body lift gap.

 

Speaking of quick shipping... SRQ is kind of starting to annoy me on the front bumper. The web site says it's 4 weeks to ship the bumper... that's cool... but it's been 5 weeks. I sent them an email late last week and they said it should ship next (this) week... tomorrow is the end of "this week."

 

Aaaand... already got the shipping notification

 

Dumb question here but how did you manage to use a big hammer to fold up the rear fender? Wouldn’t the fender come out from hammering it from the inside going out? In the process of clearancing the rear for 40’s.

 

Hammer from outside going in to push it up? Pull the tire to have room to swing a hammer.

You gotta kinda plan ahead to fold it at the right spot then beat it up out of the way or you will end up creasing by it in the wrong spot and probably want to just cut it.

 

ok got it now, beat it but still kinda watch for the crease. My mind it was just whacking away with it.

 

ohhh I understand more what you mean by the question now...

I hit the outside of the body to fold it in, gotta kinda pick where you want to fold it before starting so you have enough room, then once you get it folded you can start hitting from more the direction of the hub to fully fold it over and push it up hard.

 

Body lift is done.

 

So, the body lift is a combination of Energy Suspension body mounts, with SRQ Fab body lift.

The rubber body mounts were clapped out. And some of the bolts were seized in the body mount bushings.

I replaced the OEM rubber with the Poly mounts, then used the Derlin pucks to actually get the lift. This should be even stiffer than if I would have bone a polyurethane body lift... and what I was trying to accomplish.

 

I started getting some measurements for the rear bumper. I think I have a pretty good idea how I'll do it. I'm going to wait till tomorrow to start going on it. I can't get my welder to the back of the truck on 220V so I ordered an extension cord that should be here tomorrow.

 

The good news from this weekend...

Jen started shopping online for (pink) rock lights, antenna, etc, etc. And started looking at PRP seats.

That's how she says she's excited, without saying she's excited.

And now... I can make a LOT of stupid financial decisions on this thing without getting relegated to the couch.

I love it when a plan comes together

 

Well... got some more progress on the truck.

@Pella started mapping and labeling out the main fuse box, for replacement.



And I started modifying the rear frame ends, for reinforcement and brackets for the rear bumper.

 

Little bit by little bit.

Now that the upper mounts are done, I've got the main bar located and locked in to position. Now I can start working on the frame brackets.

 

Cardboard aided design bumper brackets are complete, and they fit.