Long Travel BS Thread

40’s on my truck
Outside of tire to outside of tire
Is 95
We’ve discussed this probably 6 times in this forum
Solo kit is 4.5, with or without 4WD
And pulls 18; or 19” metal to metal.
Irrelevant now cause truck is brick

 

I have my stock brake lights if you need them.
I’d offer you the nice morimoto headlights but looks like you’re gonna break them haha

 

I’m at like 91” on the solo kit but I believe the wheels on it have a bit of positive offset but I could be mistaken. 37x12.5 tires.

Definitely under 94” because I went to Zion and they measured the truck too because they have a width requirement for their tunnel traffic lol.

 

You must have some crazy offset to be 95”.

 

Seems like it tbh…. They are raceline avenger beadlocks but it is the “correct” wheel BS that Bobby recommended for the spindle clearance.
Still puts you inside the glass and inside your mirrors. So the conversation remains the same to what you’ve stated.
I only drove it once with the solo kit on it… and that was to load it on the trailer/flatbed.

 

Do any of you guys know your wms-wms in the front rather than overall width? I'm designing my front end around a 72" wms. I guess with 4.5" back space and 13.5" wide 39's that puts me at 90" track width pulling a bit over 19" of 4wd travel in the computer.

 

Not sure how you accurately get a WMS measurement with IFS as it’s constantly changing through the range of travel, different ride heights etc.

 

My old Tacoma with the JD +2.25 and -25 and 35s was 82-84" out side tire to tire

 

Just at ride height

 

My setup is a little weird but from what I remember, I'm about 2" wider in the front than the rear. I have the tundra rear axle which is 71.5" so somewhere in between 73-74" in the front.

 

Has anyone built an engine cage as a stand alone setup? I don't want to tear apart my interior quite yet for a cab cage, but my inner fenders are crumpling so I need some ideas

 

I mean you can. But it’s one of them just because you can doesn’t mean you should things. I’m sure however, someone will disagree and say it’s perfectly fine.

 

Because I'm honestly just needing something stronger to mount my fenders. It's droopy as hell right now lol

 

I’m with 906taco on this one

 

Get some 1” tube and start making some tubular inners.

 

You could at least start with it. Won't fix it completely but it will add up over time

 

Quick measurement on mine is about 74 WMS

 

Needing to do longer shackles for the leaf springs, as how it sits right now. This is max droop.


And with how it sits currently, shock is either hitting the frame or will hit the tire and compression...

Tire rubbing can be fixed by spacers for now and then different offset wheels more than likely... But trying to get it too not hit the frame...


Will also be going to 37s instead of 35s that are currently on the wheels.

Ideas?

 

Saw that thing on the gram and I am highly interested in the core support setup... The fenders are on my list of things to do to my truck, so would like to do all of that at once and just tear down the entire front end and rebuild...

 

So, what is the advantage of having the cage grounded?

I was either planning moving my battery to behind my cab or doing a cable run from engine to a good size bus bar at rear of the truck to then power a rear winch and some other things so that I only have the one run going from the engine to the rear instead of multiple things and then multiple points of failure...