4th gen Oil Change

Hey 4Gers,

Well, after reading all the opinions on when to get the first oil change on my 2025 OR Premium, my local Toyota dealership was having an oil change special for $49.95 so I thought “Why not?”. It has 925 miles on it.

I took it down this morning and waited for 1.5 hours. On my way home, I smelled a little bit of an oil burning smell but attributed it to someone in traffic ahead of me because it seemed to subside a little later. I stopped at a light right by my house and saw some blue smoke wafting from the right front fender. I stopped in my driveway, left the engine on, and opened the hood. They had left to oil fill cap off and oil was spurting all over.

I tried to check the oil level but since the oil is so new, I really couldn’t establish how much was in there. It was dripping oil so I know there is some. The level is probably not hardly low at all since I’m not far from the dealership.

My wife found the cap in the space under the hood release mechanism.

The dealership is sending a tech over to make sure the oil level is good then take it back for a good cleaning.

Brand new truck. My baby. Sheesh!

 

Ah that sucks. Would not be the first or last time this has happened to someone. A while back Oil change disaster advice needed Rannyhill's dealership didn't replace his oil after an oil change causing a seized engine then leading to a new truck.

 

Had something similar happen many years ago. Dealer did first oil change on my 1998 Ram 1500. About 20 minutes later driving down the road I see smoke in my mirror. I pull over and look under the truck and there is a light stream of oil coming from the plug and I can see it is backed out. I slide under to tighten it and it falls out as I touch it. I got it back in quickly and ended up down 3 quarts. The whole underside of the truck and the tailgate were a mess. Dealer made good and cleaned it and then put fresh oil in for the second time.

 

A couple things.
1. A study done at Sandia National Labs showed that, with all the carbon-producing steps it takes to manufacture and deliver an electric car, that car would have to be driven 300,000 miles before it started to be green. I assume by then the batteries would have to be replaced causing it to go carbon positive again. Plus the car is worn out by then. So basically, electric cars are not green.

2. Yea, the acceleration is crazy. I was turning left in my Taco from a side street into the close lane of a 3 lane street. I saw a car ~1 block up turning right onto the same street going the same way and before I could complete my turn, the car whizzed by me going way way too fast. It was a Tesla and it scarred the crap out of me. Super dangerous, kind of like a wide-eyed motorcyclist.

 

Got a link to that Sandia study? pretty much every source you can search for comes to the opposite conclusion over a vehicle life much shorter than 300k miles.

I’m curious about what assumptions are made in different studies

 

I’ll try to find if it is published.

 

Would love to see it. Not trying to be a dick, just honestly curious

 

Oh for sure. No problem.

I’m interested also. I was just doing a quick search and it appears to be dependent on the energy source used to charge the batteries. If a low-emission source is used (hydro, solar), the EV becomes more green than a gas engine in ~20k miles. Energy from a hi-emission source (coal, natural gas) could take much more. I saw one source that said 450K miles. So that is probably the assumption in the Sandia study.

But, regardless, the new EV technology is advancing and will be very mature when new battery technology is found and more low-emission power plants are put online. I do worry that China is controlling most of the lithium and cobalt mining right now. New sources will likely be found and recycling old batteries better established which will help. Maybe the hydrogen cell battery will make an appearance on a larger scale.

 

I'm not sure what makes me read every "oil change" thread I spot but here I am 19 pages later. I'm thinking it's the shitty upstate NY weather.
I'm guessing by what I read that the filter is the little compact filter? Question is that at one time on what I don't remember but sure it was Toyota, there was a bigger (longer) filter you could use instead of the shorter one specd out. Anyone fiqure out if this is a option on this motor? Just curious.
I don't have a clue as my truck is still hostage at the dealership waiting on brake lines, though many famous Tacomas, Tundras, and a very special FJC have parked here though the years.

 

I have a hard time trusting the oil change kids/techs anymore. Some of them care but it seems like less and less of them actually give a shit a bout their job.

I've never had anything go wrong, but I have a buddy that had a new 2020 Tundra and a badass one. I'm talking lift, wheels, tires, airbags, factory installed supercharger, everything under sun.This was the type of truck that a mechanic should lift the hood and be like "wow this is a nice one"

Took it to the dealer for the 1st oil change. The FIRST one... The kid that changed the oil forgot to put the cap back on. Didn't realize it until the next morning when he came out to find the Exxon Valdez all over his garage floor. Luckily nothing catastrophic happened. The dealership did extend his warranty out to 125,000 miles for free and the truck went almost 200K miles before he traded it for a new one. But that's always in the back of my mind when I go to the dealership for maintenance.

 

Late to the party, but a Wix 57145 is probably what you're looking for. It's about 3.4" compared to the 51394 ( filter spec'd for the 4th gens) that comes in at 3", so roughly .4" longer. I can't guarantee any fitment. Personally I'm just sticking with my 51394's or the such. They're the same filter for our Camry so it makes keeping filters on hand easier.

 

I've been holding off on this until I get my truck and confirm my suspicions. I come from the mini-truck world (22R, 22RE, 3RZ). A world where Toyota wants us to use the D1 (G2) filter, but many of us run the larger Land Cruiser (V8) D3 filter. I suspected there was a larger option to the thimble-sized N1 filter Toyota wants us to run on our T24A engines. I have a write up ready to go once I get my truck in the garage and pull off the N1.

There are two other options that have the same base, and are larger. 90915-YZZF1, and 90915-10010. The F1 and N1 are Denso Thailand. The -10010 is Denso Japan. The F1 is a car filter. The -10010 is the filter used on the 3.4L twin turbo in the new Tundra and Sequoia. The N1 and the F1 are the same price (~$6). The -10010 is about $3 more (~$9), I think I know why, but that will need to wait. My only concern is the F1 might be too tall for the space. A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

For chuckles, N1, vs F1, vs D3. I would run the D3, but the base/gasket is larger diameter.

 

I am still wondering why the standard filter is so tiny. The 10010 looks like a solid replacement

 

Well, at least they refilled with oil. Had a Versa at a Nissan dealer change the oil, and forgot to put new oil back in. I always checked the level before leaving the lot and caught it.

 

Agree, that will be my choice too. I talked with the lead tech at my local dealer last week. He told me that Toyota is encouraging dealers to install the N1 on everything. He was concerned that Toyota will disco the F1 and the -10010, and encouraged me to stock up. Toyota does have a history of discontinuing Denso Japan oil filters in the USA (-20004, YZZB5, YZZB9 come to mind). Note that the three disco'd oil filters were resin element, not pleated paper. I have a suspicion that the -10010 might also be a resin element filter.

 

I presume the implication here is that you want a larger filter for more capacity to hold contaminants and to increase oil capacity a bit. Thing is, just because a filter screws on doesn't mean it's appropriate for the application. Different filters have different characteristics. The one thing that leaps out to me is that they have internal bypass valves that open at a particular pressure. Just slapping another filter on without confirming it's right for the application can cause problems.

Do we know that all these filters besides the -N1 have a bypass valve that opens at the appropriate pressure for the T24A-FTS? The fact that the one tech mentioned that Toyota seems to be moving toward using the -N1 for everything implies they probably do, but this probably should be confirmed before anybody starts trying to use an alternate filter.

 

Is pleated better than resin or vice-versa?

 

Is that a Miller Cat (MCX) skid plate you're sporting in that pic?

 

Yes. It's an excellent item---- that pic w/ the Fumoto valve shows how good the access is to the drain plug and below is one showing the easy access to the filter as well (and the plate when everything is closed up too):