4th gen Oil Change

I have the same set up in aluminum...LOVE it...I'm seriously considering the CAT plate. More for the protection of the tranny than for the CAT. That thing's tucked so far up in the engine compartment I can't see a thief bothering to go after it.

 

BTW folks. Many have asked which Fumoto valve works for the 4th Gen Tacos. Here you go, your favorite flavors straight from Fumoto's web page for the 4th Gen:
https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-toyota-2024-tacoma-2-4l-l4

I went for the long nipple so I could snake a drain hose straight down to the drain pan for a no muss, no fuss oil drain. Some folks even leave the hose connected and tucked on top of their skid plate for even easier drains.

 

FYI, it seems we probably want the F133 over the F103. I did some poking around and discovered that they're externally identical but the 133 has been reworked internally for more flow, which should allow for faster draining come time to do a change. The 133 now supersedes the 103. Sounds like it's worth the extra couple bucks to me.

 

I have the original and I have no issues with “slow” drain. Just fyi. Not sure how much faster the flow will be…anyone have both to compare???

 

I took delivery of my TRD-OR/MT yesterday. The F1 filter fits just dandy for those who want to run a larger filter.

 

ONE OF US, ONE OF US

 

I did my first oil change at around 1000 miles maybe 2 weeks ago.. was waiting for the oil analysis to post.. nothing in the pan at all.. cut open the factory filter and put a pencil magnet in each pleat and found very little metal debris.. only thing that was in the filter was a few pieces of RTV or similar.. analysis said everything was fine.. so on to the 5000 mile change.

 

Nice! Who do you use for oil samples?

 

I’ve been using Blackstone for many years

 

I'm an idiot. I guess I could have looked at the bottom of the sample...lol

 

Since they hide the cost on the site; it’s $40

 

I had called them about the flash point being concerned and they had said it was probably me driving very short trips. The longest trip it had was 52 miles on the drive home from the dealership..most of my drives are under 10 to 15 miles.. a lot of starting and stopping in the driveway or garage

 

No worry.. it’s early

 

Why would the flash point be low from short trips? That doesn't make any sense to me. All my trips are going to be short. Like less then 25miles normally.

 

Lots more fuel dilution without long periods at high temps to vaporize it and send it back through the PCV system

 

The electric infrastructure is your home.
All EVs can be programmed to start charging during late night hours when most people are sleeping, during which time the electric grid has ample and excess capacity.
NO grid upgrades are needed.
An EV at home is typically charged a couple of times per week for two or three hours, when the EV drivers are sleeping and the home is using little to no electricity.

An EV can be charged with the same amount of electric amperage as a hot tub, electric stove, water heater, heat pump HVAC system or a clothes dryer.
The EV charging takes place when all of those other appliances in the home aren't running.

Again, no electric grid infrastructure upgrades are needed. That's all been FUD for years.
Please stop spouting off uninformed and ignorant misinformation.

 

Brake pads and rotors will never need replacement if using regenerative braking on an EV. The brakes are still used just a little, close to the end of a stop if the driver doesn't lift off of the accelerator pedal at just the right time.
They can be driven all day without touching the brake pedal if driven carefully.

The brake fluid can be replaced at 3 years, but that fluid isn't ever super heated by the extreme temperature of a hot brake caliper.

So for an EV, it's only wiper blades, cabin air filter, windshield washer fluid and tires for many years.
EV batteries can last 500,000 miles.
Electric motors can last 1 million miles.

EVs come with an 8 year, 120,000 to 150,000 mile drivetrain and battery warranty.
Modern internal combustion vehicles don't come close to that warranty. Why not? Because they are weak, old technology.

With an EV:
No oil or filter changes.
No weekly gas station stops.
No coolant changes, as it's not super heated in a boiling internal combustion engine.
No transmission or fluid changes.
No differentials and transfer case oils open to the air for contamination.
No spark plugs or plug packs.
No fuel system, punctured fuel tank, pumps or filters.
No stolen gasoline or diesel.
No exhaust system to rust or get damaged.
No catalytic converter to get stolen.
No emissions system or evaporative system.
No vehicle inspections or smog checks.
Hundreds of less parts in an EV and little to no maintenance.

Great grandpa didn't want to give up his horse and buggy 122 years ago.

An EV can run without gasoline.

Everything on a gas vehicle runs on electricity. Without electricity they're a brick.

It takes electricity to extract, refine, transport, pump gasoline and run gas stations.

EVs aren't going away any more than the billions of battery operated smartphones, tablet computers, portable radios and cordless tools on Earth are going away.

 

So U said that you're living in a zip code of entitled assholes.
That says it all.

 

I think fuel dilution might be a thing on these. Currently about 4,000 miles on the oil on mine and when I went to check it last week or so it smelled rather gassy and looked nasty. Real scientific test I know... Also the level seemed to have risen a little bit, but the dipstick readings on these are merely a suggestion, so I can't really go by that. There's no way in heck I'd be going 10K on oil on this engine, but that's just me. But, people can do what they want, and I'm sure I'll have someone debate I have know idea what I'm talking about. I'd make some suggestions, but I'm gonna nope TF out of that

 

Couldn’t have said it better