How to: Chevy 63" Leaf Spring Swap

Correct, I’m at 1.25” spidertrax spacers. Check this out

 

Whats your tire to shock clearance at ride hieght? Around 2"?

 

Something like that

 

What wheel specs do you guys have?

I have the f5’s with 3.5 backspacing and -38 offset. I have heard of tire rubbing being an issue but it seems manageable with some proper measuring

 

I’m on method’s 704 16” 0 offset and tires are 315/75r16 any wheel that only offers looks it’s a no go for me.

 

I went with the f5’s for the offset specs for fitting 315’s. Sucked spending the money on rims that get ruined but it is what it is.

0 off set and 1.25 spacers should put us to similiar poke.

 

Yup, but beadgrip/bealock ftw.

 

I think that wasn’t an option when I got my wheels 7 or 8 years ago but I get that. Think my options at the time were the f5’s, some steel beadlocks in 16’s or some pricey walker evan rims. F5’s are working for now and I’m not looking forward to having to get new rims or an additional rim if one of them breaks. Importing to Canada will suck.

 

Thanks, Im really going to try to package some 2.5's without spacers by using a skinny tire. May even go crazy and box the frame then clearance the frame.

 

Hell yeah dude skinny ftw.

 

Frame notch is 100% the way to go.

 

Frame notching we are talking about making room for the shock body similar to this?

 

I think you get the idea but I cant tell if that picture if the frame is actually notched.

No way id actually buy these, they are just an example

 

I have 35x10.5 Kendas on SCS -10’s with 14”X 2.5”’s and still have to run a 1.25 spacer if that helps. I think it still barely rubs at full twist. I’ve never been able to recreate it rubbing by flexing it out and checking but every once and awhile I see rub marks on the shocks. I figured I’m right in the cusp and I’m probably going slow enough it’s not actually going to cause enough problems to worry about it. It’s probably just 10’-15’ of driving out of 265k miles. I started with 2” spacers and worked my way in. 1.25 seems to be the sweet spot. I think if you’re going to French the frame, box everything and you’re gonna be going through the bed at that point I think you could run a 14”-16” coilover and a trailing arm set up might be starting to come into play. It’s like where do you stop.

 

Great info, I'll probably just start with spacers then I will eventually box and notch and remove them. Bed is not a concern in the slightest, building a flatbed this spring.

Links are well above my tax bracket, we got $100 junkyard leafs for a reason.

 

That's correct. You're probably looking at something closer to this, but not as aggressive. If you search for frame notch, most of what comes up is a horizontal bitch to allow the axle to come up higher, which you shouldn't have an issue with.

 

Okay I believe those towers are cut into the frame. I’m following. lol

okay perfect, I have some Tmr towers so I may be able to mess around with that. They are super beefy for shocks but they should help keep the frame together with a small notch.

 

Yeah, if you're talking about the TMR coilover towers, you can absolutely use them as the notch filler. A crossmember at a notch point is also a good idea. $10 of tube will do wonders for the frame integrity.

 

Yeah may have to put a tube on the tower itself depending on where the tower lands with the gussets I have on the boxed section. Thicker plate too where the frame boxed. Will see. May just send it with the bamf ones….all the options.


Wasn’t planning shock towers when I did the bracing. Just wanted to stiffen up the frame to not break another bed.

 

Lots of good info. hear thanks guys.