May have killed my taco..penny for your thoughts

The trans still is waiting to go in. Hopefully soon.

When I worked for Ford the ZF 5 speed had an aluminum tob input shaft that galled. They at least had 4 bolts and swapped externally.

 

Man o man, my truck is running good. Got the new amp in, bumping again. Still haven’t done the big 7 upgrade kit I have staring at me right now. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. oh and 4400$ quote for new clutch from the dealer, but I can’t really hear it now when I’m bumping. I’ll probably drive it until summer and do the clutch. Gonna play catchup on finances before I throw any more money at it. Simply doesn’t need it. Going up to Milwaukee tomorrow for work, new job is awesome. Was up in Iowa for the storm Friday , it was wild . Lightning and crazy winds. Had a tornado touch down 25 miles from
Home is southern Illinois. Looking forward to some hot weather! Later guys
Doug

 

The hotter the better for weather is my motto...let it roast!

Any local shops a little cheaper on the clutch perhaps

 

Next things on the agenda though
-splice a new maf plug onto the harness(the gasket thing is smushed and takes some playing with to get it to seat properly
-Big 7 battery harness upgrade
-fuel filter
-plugs wires
-complete clutch job oem parts
-checking paperwork on odo reading for last timing belt job,

I’ll keep bumping this thread when I do stuff, just cuz it’s fun

 

OP, everything still running smoothly? This was a fun thread to dig through, and I don’t want the fun to end.

 

Yo , still rolling just like before the drive to Cuba haha. Throw out bearing still noisy but I’m postponing the clutch work since I only drive it on the weekends in town, and it still shifts just fine. I am going to visit my pops tomorrow and it’s a 2.5hour trip , definitely driving the truck up. I have had it at interstate speeds a few times since doing all the necessary repairs and it sounds and feels like nothing happened. So far so good. After the trip I’ll probably change the oil. 249k on the odometer. Still no progress on the ancillary wire upgrade job or the heater valve situation. Haven’t had time but as soon as it warms up outside that will be fixed, as it blows nothing but full hot air if I turn on the hvac. 21 years(ten in my possession) and never charged or worked on ac system at all and it always has blown super cold air. Hoping the compressor doesn’t need replaced , as it was underwater for sure.

One month into the new job, got a 2020 camry from the new company. It drives great too lol. I’m a little skeptical of 10k oil change intervals even being synthetic, I’ll probably be doing 5k just to be safe. Boss gave me full autonomy on maintenance. Biggest issue with this vehicle is all my tools and luggage barely fit, and it sits so low compared to my truck that I’ve been scraping under front bumper when I park as I’m not used to driving a car that sits 6” from the ground. I’m trying to remember to adjust my parking to accommodate. The job itself is so much better than my last company , and all the new coworkers seem sincerely happy and welcoming to me coming on board. And I’m making great money, the owner said work as much as you want and make your own schedule, which is awesome! Been working at 10 S canal street in downtown Chicago last week and going back Monday. Big AT&T office. Life is good!

as I said before , I’ll be doing more work soon and I’ll be bumping this thread when I do it. Love yall and hope everyone is happy healthy and ready for some warmer weather, I am all of those.
Later guys
Doug

 

Pretty amazing, considering where you started with all this. Congrats.

 

Went to my dad’s today, 5 hours on the interstate, running like a champ! Gotta fix the dang air soon, was hot in the cab , and it rained and forced me to roll the windows up, but it got me there and back. Good evening fellas

 

@TACOTU3 pulled that cable off my heater valve control. Fixed my full bore heat(that was getting old). Now I’m exactly like you . Thank you

 

I have ac again! Happy to report my compressor wasn’t damaged from the water, just the cable seized up in the heat position on the heater control valve! Great success!

 

If anyone has ever replaced the cable that adjusts that lever, let me know how deep that rabbit hole is to get at it and replace. I’m digging through my Haynes book now.
Feeling a bit stir crazy, probably going to start on the big7 wire job tomorrow. Tired of looking at this beautiful wire kit in my living room floor. Time to put it on my truck where it belongs.
Plus…I went to look for cheap blue rays at a local pawn shop few days ago and when I went to leave, the neg ring wasn’t making good contact, had 0 connection, had to pop the hood in the rain and slap it around to get it started.
I knew it wasn’t anything serious cuz I had 0 power, and that neg battery cable ring has been like this forever. Did the aluminum foil wrap fix to make the post have more girth. Don’t like doing that though, for corrosion reasons, it being a dissimilar metal.

 

Glad it worked!!

 

it took me 5 minutes. My laziness had me sweating for months. Think outhouse in a July music festival and you’re almost where I’ve been last few days.

 

I had it all apart once before I realized I needed to replace the cable. I thought it was just kinked or caught on something… It’s a pain but not impossible. You need to pull or at least loosen that climate control module, which likely involves un clipping some of the other cables to get room to work. I took the stereo out to have more room. Some of those connections were getting kind of brittle too…

I haven’t gone back in because I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle again. I am in Arizona so I’ve got it switched to AC 90% of the time. If I switched it more, I wouldn’t hesitate to dive back in.

 

I wonder if I yank on the end of it, maybe it will free it up.

 

Worth a shot, spray some WD-40 down the jacket of it first. Don’t yank too hard though, the way it clips to the module is a little plastic retaining piece, so you could for sure rip it right out and it might not go back in.

 

Here is where the cables connect inside the module, the red circles (ignore the arrows, I just pulled this picture off of Google). If you damage any of that, they’re just going to pull right out every time you turn the knob.

there are two more on the other side, so you’ve got to get one or two of them unclipped before you can really start moving that module around, otherwise it’s kind of got itself held in place by cable tension.

 

You’re a wealth of info. Thanks man. I’ll price the cable at Toyota Monday morning. It bothers me not having everything functioning as it should. I’m probably going to dig into the dash tomorrow, as I need to really get in there to see if any more electrical parts have any corrosion or damage from the dip.

 

Also…this old pioneer head unit really needs updated /replaced. It works and all; but I know my sub will bump way harder with a better head unit.
Time to bump over to Olive Garden and pick up dinner, enjoy ya evening taco!

 

Happy to help, my guy! The site has certainly come through plenty for me.

Here’s the part number from mine, just been sitting in my parts hoard for a couple of years… Want to say it was somewhere around 15 bucks