Should I SAS or long travel my rig?

Here is how she sits now. I have been going back and forth on what I want to do any advice or ideas would be great!

 

Welcome to TW!

 

To me it comes down to the trails you want to do.

 

That question can only be answer by you. How far can you reach and how deep is your pocket? Meaning, we don’t know your financial situation. Most people will say, money isn’t an issue but in reality, it is. And the other question will be, what is your intended use?

What is your knowledge, access to tools, and capacity (able to perform the work yourself or will it be dropped off at a shop) for both LT & SA. Other associated, follow up question if you decide to SA, are you going with leaf or link suspension? Link will be more expensive and way more involved. What type of axle? Waggy, Toyota, SD, KP, custom? What about the rear? Extremely dumb to run SD and stock Toyota in the rear. Now you have to consider 14b and it’s more money in the drain. Just because you’re going 14b, you now have to consider rear suspension: link or leaf. 63s or other leaf packs? Everything is money…

LT will be more cost effective, easier to dial in, more comfortable and road friendly with minimum fab work as it is a drop in kit compared to SA but not as sturdy on rock. At a bare minimum, leaf swap SA from start to finish will probably cost $6k minimum depending on what axle you run among other parts such as locker type, stock shaft vs 4340 or stronger (that’s being generous and sourcing majority of used parts). That doesn’t include cost on beadlock and tires, crawl box etc. Also, if you plan on dropping the truck off at a shop, tack on an additional $5-7k on average in labor for leaf setup and upwards of $10k+ for links.

ADVICE: I had not met a SA owner who regret the swap and say they wish they went LT instead. On the other hand, I met plenty of LT owners who wished they drop the money on a SA swap. My saying is, buy once, cry once. And 1 (maybe 2) out of 10 people will actually go through with a SA. Other 9 or so will gathered some minor parts, collect data and price to put on a spreadsheet and lose interest because it’s out of their budget or have no desire after a few years with no motivation.

The choice is yours. Take your pick and go with it. Keep it as is? LT? SA? Buy one already built and sell yours?

 

Thank you for your knowledge, cost is a big thing for me as I am still in high school. I would be doing any fab work in my garage on my own as well. My intended use would be for typical Washington trails and mountain use plus Oregon dunes. I have been leaning towards Lt because it would be easier, simpler, better ride quality and cheaper. Plus I think it would do everything I would want it to.

 

Honestly, FSR and dunes don’t require LT. Even though we’re off the SA topic, LT isn’t cheap by no means. A fully tuned LT front end and SUA rear is still $8k+ to dial in, depending on setup.

At your age, get yourself some 5100s all around, possibly 882s, AAL/new pack, extended shackle, rock sliders and enjoy it. You’ll be surprised how capable they are with an experience driver. You can play it safe by getting yourself a set of selectable lockers for the front and rear. With that setup, you can go through 80-90% of the surrounding trails in your area. Heck, you can be ballsy and add a crawl box. Now we’re talking my lango, lol.

 

Sweet! I think lockers might be my next move, any recommendations for front and rear? I have the rock sliders in the garage just need to weld them on, lol. Also, What is AAL/new pack? I'm not familiar. Thanks again.

 

I highly recommend going with a selectable. A locker that is controlled by a switch: TJM Pro air locker, Harrop elocker, ARB (I’m not a fan of) air locker. Benefits about having an air locker is you have access to OBA (On Board Air) to air up your tire if needed, depending on size. I carry a 60cuft nitrogen tank to air up the 42” tires but know that I have access to my ARB compressor mounted in the engine bay if I ever need it. I went with nitrogen and not CO2 because I’m able to charge the 4 coilovers and air bumps if needed. Had a 20gal CO2 tank that I traded it in for the nitrogen tank. From time to time, I would take my Napa dual pump, portable air compressor because I’m low on nitrogen gas. I really hate running the ARB mid-size air compressor to air up the 42s, not ideal. Harrop is an electric locker which is sweet too but generally cost 3-400ish more but you have to consider pricing for an air compressor for the air lockers. It’s best and easiest to buy from ECGS, swap them out when the new clamshell/third arrives then send your cores in for a refund. You will have an 8.4 rear and 7.5 hp front clamshell.
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1065064-assembled-3rds-clamshells-96-04-tacoma.html

AAL = Add A Leaf, technically a bandage for a weak/flat leaf spring
New pack = replacing both leaf springs with new leaf springs from what ever company you like. This is the best time to buy lift leaf spring from brands like Alcan, Deaver, OME, ToyTec etc.

 

For now I'd advice you to keep it stock since you're still in high school. Make sure all the maintenance is up to date. Tune up and Fluid changes, Water pump and timing belt if 5VZE engine. Front and rear Differential fluids. Brakes and brake fluid flush. And #1 on the list, keep those lower ball joints changed every 100k miles or so depending on how much wheeling you do. These Trucks are very capable i stock form, which I'm sure you know by now.

 

What's your budget Wyatt? Do you have a job?

 

Is that a manual and v6 or I4? Either way, looks like a rare classic in good shape. SWB regular cab screams technical trails, but for God sake don't experiment on that truck. Find a different one to ruin.

 

welcome to TW!

is the stock suspension actually a limiting factor in the trails you run and/or want to run?

As said, these trucks are pretty damn capable as it sits. Add in a locker or two and you will be amazed at where you can go.

Im a cheapass and have been shoving my truck down all kinds of trails with stock control arms for years…

 

I do have a job, budget for suspension parts is currently around 3k.

 

It's a manual I4. It didn't look like this when I bought it but I have put a lot of work and time into it to get it to look decent. I definitely won't be ruining it just want to make it capable and clean to do the trails I want to do while still keeping the scratches and dents on my paint job to a minimum.

 

3k isn't going to get you LT or SAS.
Could get you some lockers though

Whats the suspension setup right now? Looks pretty tall, is it a drop bracket?

 

I know it 3k won't get me Lt or SAS I was thinking of for the future once I have some more saved up. It isn't a drop bracket, It's just shocks but I haven't replaced the front shocks since I got the truck so I was thinking of maybe doing that soon.

 

Most of the time no the stock suspension isn't a limiting factor but there are some places and trails I wish I could do more at. I think a locker would help alot with that too.

 

What is it currently? Work with what you currently have. If it is solid axle keep it solid axle. If it is IFS keep it IFS. Both can be made to work well. One outperforming the other will always come down to how much some is spending. Keep it simple and focus on driving skill, quality parts and saving the $$ for when things get destroyed. Because no matter whether it is solid axle or IFS things will fail. I would also seek advice and guidance from experienced locals and not to take on big projects before developing the skill and knowledge. If you do it usually leads to failed projects and wasted dollars. Focus on frequent inspections, maintenance and an understanding of what is working and is not. Then you will understand where improvements need to be made if something continues to fail. The first thing that really should be seriously considered and usually put off is a cage. Think of things in this order: Safety-Durability-Performance.

 

Growing up in Washington some things to think about are SAS rigs aren't usually street driven. They are a handful to drive especially in the Mountains. Washington is wet and muddy so the driving style is big tires and lots of throttle which LT might not take as well as SAS. Having gone LT I love it. LT with a body lift will let you clear 37s with no tubing. My concern with LT is breaking the front diff with bigger tires also there aren't many steering upgrades to turn bigger tires. I'm going to try and fab up some full hydro but there's nothing off the shelf.

 

Yeah, I'd recommend taking whatever money you intend on LT or SAS and opening a Roth IRA with it.
I like ETF's (exchange traded funds) that track the market in whatever they're invested and let someone else do the heavy thinking.
Save now and let your money grow so when you hit your 40's you won't have to save much and can spend it on whatever you want.