Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

I waited to comment on this until l drove my truck again and could pay 100 percent attention. After sitting for 6 days, textbook definition of cold start, fired the truck up and there was zero change in RPM with the brake on or off, clutch in or out, handbrake on or off.

 

I’m assuming up there it’s colder than here in TX, although it only does it for me on the coldest of days. Like when it’s 15-20° out. That’s when it idles the highest (1400ish) and only at that point in the cycle does it do the brake thing. Once it’s warmed up enough to drop the idle to 1100 or so, the brake makes no difference.

Curious how cold it was during your test to see what stage of the idle rpm you were in. I’d have to open VF Tuner again to remind myself what the 4 stages are.

We're now back up to 45-50 degrees in the mornings here and so mine has been starting at 1100 and no longer doing the 1400 rpm deal or the raising and lowering tied to the brake. I actually video'd mine when it was cold enough last week, but I haven't uploaded it anywhere that I can share from here.

 

We did a centerforce clutch and accumulator delete on my brother's truck. '21 Trd Sport. He says the pedal is lighter than ever but likes the responsive pedal. He was unhappy with inconsistent accumulator travel on the clutch I guess. The stock clutch was pretty gone as well. Used truck and there was quite a bit of heat marks on the pressure plate and flywheel.

 

I've seriously thought about hogging some extra sipes into mine, my work boots have a tread that seems to stay wet for a long time, and I've had one or two close calls that have me examining the pedals lack of topography.

 

Work boots, hiking boots, vans, nikes...it's all the same. Zero grip on the pedals if anything is less than perfectly clean and dry.

 

could try grip tape / gaffer tape on the pedal and see if that helps

 

Not a bad idea...I was thinking it might be time for the dremel and a carbide burr

 

My experience is identical to this. It only happens when it's after a cold start, maybe 20°F or less. It rises up to 12-1400 rpm with your foot on the brake. Parking brake doesn't cause it to happen. When I first noticed it, I thought I had a vacuum leak.

 

Yeah, I think it only happens when the idle goes up to 1400 and it drops with the brake due to it not wanting to idle in gear too high, in case you need to drive in a low speed situation.

 

It warmed up in Ohio this week, I was experiencing this when we were in the 10's and 20's. Not when it is above freezing.

 

Hey all, first post here. I just changed a clutch in a 3rd gen 6 speed trd Tacoma and it’s only got 71k. Pretty sure this isn’t the first clutch that this truck has had swapped either… seemed to be fine for a week or so and now I’m having chatter when the clutch pedal is disengaged and can visibly see in the inspection hole of the bell housing that the clutch and bearing are riding funny until the clutch is engaged which holds it all taught and straight. It also makes the shift fork chatter inside the bell housing and I can obviously make it stop by side loading the fork with the clutch pedal disengaged.

so is this the dreaded worn quill on these style trans? Am I missing some kind of pilot bearing or bushing? Cause I swore that the alignment tool was right where it was supposed to be. Will the tilton throw out slave combo fix this issue? Or is my trans already toast? Just never seen that much play and had audible clacking before. There was no squeak like I’ve heard about. The new tob was super wiggly in the quill and I can simulate side loading and the clacking pretty easily.

thank you for any help.

 

Does it sound like this ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4MCjk8SQm0

 

The quill is less likely to wear on a 3rd gen, but it’s still possible. The good news is that it’s replaceable on a 3G unlike on a 2G.

33108-04010

 

It’s much much more clanky than that. It almost sounds like a really bad rod bearing. I stopped the noise by putting a pry bar on the ear of the shift fork that’s right by the inspection cover and put some side tension on it. Or it disappears when the clutch is pushed in and then it runs true. Is there a bushing or something in the crankshaft I’m missing? Cause I couldn’t find any busing or bearing when searching for the 3rd gen 6 speed and the spline doesn’t have a provision for one either obviously.

 

This is awesome, I had no idea it was just a front shaft that can be replaced. Is this a temporary fix? Cause I assume it was caused by side loading from the shift fork design and I found the whole thread about changing the slave to a hydro gm style. Feel like this might need changing as well as the Tilton tob upgrade to totally fix that issue.

 

I don't know, I don't think the wearing out of the steel quill is much of a common problem. I don't think there is much side load from the fork either. I don't know why the quill would really wear out being that it's steel but I have seen at least one person who had incessant TOB issues and he fixed it with a new quill.

I have little to no faith in aftermarket clutch components, especially ones like internal slave cylinders where if the slave goes bad and busts, you have to remove the whole transmission to deal with it. I'd rather just leave it stock and replace a few unusual to replace parts when I finally open it up to hopefully set things off right for a long time again.

 

Does 2019 TRDOR have pilot bearing or not?

 

No