What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

OK - gotcha. I had a cap on my old truck. I’m planning to add a cap later, and it’s going to take some work to seal up the bed on the 3rd gen. Good luck with your project.

 

Great looking Red Nose shop foreman!!!!!

 

Greetings from Brandon area!

Looks like you are near enough to the specified interval. I got my 75k service coming up probably this summer so I'll be doing the same, again.

 

In case the newbies haven't found this nice Service Interval chart, I'll post here. I think it is a sticky thread in the 3rd Gen area.

 

Added the last skid. RCI aluminum t-case skid.

 

Ordered a Rek Gen bed mat.

 

I know WD-40 is very popular as a liquid lube, though not sure how it got that reputation, since it is a Water displacement spray, more for drying out ign. wires than to actually lubricate. It does serve well as a mild solvent, so for dried grease it would work better than just adding oil; but even for this, brake clean is a faster prep, where it is safe to use.

Anyhow, my go-to for penetrating or liquid lube, is Boeshield T-9. Comes in small bottles (some are labeled as bicycle chain lube), and comes in spray cans. This stuff clings very well, creeps well also, and has fantastic anti corrosion properties. I got introduced to this product in the airplane building and maintenance circles, where it is highly regarded.

T-9 is also possibly the most recommended product for anti corrosion of amphibian aircraft, that will be used in salt water. For this you coat everything with a thin film, and it is so good a creeping, that it is reported to find its way in to all the laps and joints, providing great protection. I wonder how it's performance would compare for use as annual undercoating?

One warning though, something about the properties of this lube, clogs the nozzle on spray cans, if they are not used frequent enough. So I use the squeeze bottle most often (ensuring my spray will be clogged when I need it, ha).

Anyhow, great liquid lube, will definitely last longer than WD-40 in any pivot joint.

 

What's the thickness of the steel and aluminum on those skids?

 

Agree on your comments on WD40 and on T-9. I use the T-9 on a bunch of stuff exposed to my nearby saltwater environment. CRC 6-56 is another good multi-purpose light lubricant with many of the same properties as T-9. I'm currently using that on my saltwater outboard engines under the cowlings. After use/periodically hose them down with Salt-away, let them dry and then hit metal surfaces, wires and seals with 6-56.

IMHO, both T-9 and 6-56 are too light for an undercoating but I've never tried 'em...

 

Aluminum is 1/4” for the RCI. Not sure what the thickness is of the TRD engine skid. The steel crossbrace is 3/16”. The steel versions are all 3/16”. I am not planning on rock crawling so these are more general protection that’s why I went for the weight savings on aluminum.

 

Would you mind posting a link to the exact product you are talking about, I mainly just saw spray cans.... lol

 

Didn't realize that was your stock skid. At some point in the very near future I'm planning on getting back into TIG welding and want to make some skids; similar to you, I'm not planning on crawling so aluminum will do just fine.

 

I installed mine in the same spot, had to move it shortly after as I constantly got "key not detected" errors while driving. Once I moved it to the left side, the errors went away.
Not really sure why the tow controller dial being mounted there caused the issue though.

 

@DavesSR5

https://boeshield.com/products/

 

Amazon, T-9 Spray, in gallons and small squeeze bottles (labeled for bicycle chains) are also on Amz

$21 BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK?crid=YHK7TGF89J5J&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.OQsYrzWfWcNniHD5RXWDJlg-U6bcZH-WsbbNoU5y-Mqw_CpVuX8ksOiVoxloR8ZP7g0feEE4dSBd5E1hTMOS0rVJVEp81FGanFmX256Iz0bXYad-AMBBPDq1ihLThrplpdo3KQMXTTz2KRowHUWYpb5M0aFypiteI4KrZcxUmsEynkPSMB0_DcFPwjY9B4ACZw8Xx3gXcnmgO9G61bbMz3lNWO7i1xS5NSYHNxTyTxaKT9j_1El3HK1_SkE_p_bnjspDBeparh-leCKv7U_f26JAD_xJwDU2iVOimtvcDPo.zQqfHXc7vRfqrRz755xEvyKfNbkLXxdTzQdLtluAOVk&dib_tag=se&keywords=t9+boeshield&qid=1742752468&sprefix=t9%2Caps%2C248&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

That Boeshield is good stuff, great for squeaky leaf springs among many other things.

 

Finally got my OEM LEDs installed on the SR5 with wiring harness from @Puppypunter! They are so much sexier than the halogens. Install wasn’t too terrible and I’m probably the least handy person I know.



I’d suggest, as others have before, to put painters tape on the sides of the lens before installing. I got a little scratch on the first headlight. Used tape on the 2nd and no scratches.



Any suggestions on easily removing the scratch? I’m kinda leaning towards leaving it alone instead of risking making it worse. I know I’ll eventually have more wear and tear anyways. Open to suggestions.

 

The metal sleeves that go inside the rubber bushings in the shock eye. I have seen a lot of mentions of them for some reason including 2 but most fail to realize they have slightly different inside diameters. Either way both the metal and rubber parts have to be trimmed to fit a 3rd gen Tacoma properly. Although there do appear to be correctly sized replacements available as well.

 

I straightened all the fins on my radiator. My OCD is pretty nuts sometimes

 

I use Novus. It's a 3 stage polish and does a great job. https://novuspolish.com/