Sudden large oil consumption?

I would guess your oil control rings are gummed up and not moving freely to scrape the cylinder walls.

My truck didn’t burn a drop and then all of a sudden it used 1 quart every 5000 miles. I treated it with

$16 BG 109 Compression Engine Performance Restore BG EPR

BG 109 and it’s back to normal.

 

Got the flush done. I put a 1/4 can in each cylinder and let sit for 8 hrs. Then put a 1/4 can in each and let sit for 2 days. Also cleaned the throttle body while I was in there. Pics of junk that came out of the exhaust, and the oil that came out. The oil had maybe 200 miles on it, so obviously the Berrymans cleaned something out. The oil reeked of Berrymans. I'll check back in with results after I put some miles on it.

 

MMO gives you nice minty scent.
That's some nasty oil. I would be tempted to change the oil again after a couple hundred miles.

 

That's the plan. I threw in El cheapo Napa full synthetic and plan to change in maybe 500 miles or so? If this works, it sure beats the alternative of a new engine.

 

If that's only 200mi oil the flush pulled allot of crap out with it

Let us now if you feel a power improvement around 1600~2200 rpm. When I flushed mine it also came out looking like ink @ 300mi. There was a definite performance improvement in the rpm range I mentioned, all I can attribute it to is that the VVT works better (as it once did) now. My theory is the degradation was slow and over many miles so it wasn't really noticeable, truck just felt a little tired until I did the flush. I didn't have an oil consumption problem though

 

After seeing this and reading threads about sudden oil burning I'm going to plan on keep following the Seafoam oil change recommendation on the can. Currently just before an oil change I add 5-6 oz of Seafoam to the oil and let the truck idle for 10-15 minutes and then drain the oil.

 

Napa synthetic is made by Warren, IIRC. Under normal circumstances it is a 5K-6K mile oil. Not a bad oil.

 

I've felt a difference in power, but I attribute it to new spark plugs that are gapped correctly and cleaned throttle body. We'll see what the oil looks like after a couple hundred miles.

 

Sparkplugs rarely improve performance enough to feel unless the old plugs were bad enough to cause a misfire. I'd be far more inclined to think it cleaned some of the crap out of the vvt screens and now the VVT operation is improved somewhat. Glad it's working better for you.

 

Spray some carb cleaner up into the oil pan and let that bich drain overnight.

 

I'll go along with this. Every time I do the Seafoam treatment just before an oil change, it feels like the engine runs a bit better, quieter. It could be just psychological.

 

What oil do you normally use? Synthetic or regular?

 

Plugs #2 & #3 do not look normal. (I thought TOO HOT, but the chart below doesn't back me up.)
Let us know how the new plugs look after a fair trial period.

 

I've used a full synthetic since I purchased it at 41,000 miles and now has 136,000 miles. After watching a few you tube videos and reading a few threads on oil I've come to the conclusion that as long as it's a good quality name brand, it make very little difference what brand of oil you use as long as you change the oil at the recommended intervals. Currently I'm using one of the Valvoline Full Synthetics, but I've used Kirkland, Walmart's brand, or Havoline and I don't see any noticeable oil usage between the 5000 miles changes. The oil level on the dip stick doesn't appear to change between oil changes. For me, Havoline is nice because it comes in a six quart box.
I must add this, I made my oil pan a six quart capacity and added a Fumoto drain valve coming out at the bottom side of the pan. The chance of my Fumoto drain valve being knock off is nearly zero. I'll provide a photo if it's requested.

 

Some oils have more cleaning agents than others. Some synthetics are ester based, and esters are good cleaning by the nature, even before any additives are used.
I like Fumoto valves. Had them on my 2005 TDR DC OR, Isuzu Axiom, now on my 2022 Taco.

 

Not sure about today, but back in the 80s, the two real, full synthetic brands were made from either a polyalfaolefin or a dibasic acid ester.
If you corner a chemistry major, ask him to point out the bonds between the molecules to you (on paper, silly). The PAO has a single bond and the DAE has a double bond.
I chose the Ester and have had -ZERO- issues reaching 300k miles in multiple vehicles (American & Japanese made) since 1979.

That cleaning power turned some users away, way back then. The syn oil removed (cleaned up) all of the built up sludge and deposits left behind by petroleum based oils. Some so drastically that it would clog the oil filter and then all the bad which comes from that. Others, the sludge actually plugged leaks/faults in gaskets & seals (from the inside)... and once that plug was cleared away, the new syn oil seeped through those faulty gaskets/seals. The owner thought the new syn was harmful & deteriorated the gasket and refused to run it from then on. Too bad for them, they missed out on great engine preservation, economy, and less mechanical problems.

It has truly been a great experience for me to see and learn the differences (& value!), first hand, between petroleum oils and synthetic oils through the years. They are more than a world apart!

 

This also gave a rise to the myth that you could not switch back and forth between dino and syn oils.

 

I suspect #2 and #3 were the cylinders burning oil. I'll eventually pull them to check again, but that will awhile due to work and lack of driving it a ton anymore.