TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have slightly different Speedhut gauges, so I can't speak to peak/low question. IIRC, they ship their gauges with Bosch O2 sensors that aren't known for longevity. (Mine lasted about five years and 20K miles, across the COVID era.) Replacement was straighforward, taking minimal time/effort.

 

Mornin folks. Need some help finding a replacement filter with better filtration capacity then the afe prodry filter currently installed. I don't have the factory airbox system to reinstall (nor do I really want to go back to it due to the way its plumbed to the snorkel and everything).

I'm 90% sure the reason for my valve seat/face failures a couple years back was due to poor filtration because of the afe filter. when id pull the filter off, I'd see a fine layer of dust behind the filter and on the MAF.

This is the filter im looking to replace with a better one. Anyone here do anything similar?



It needs to have a 5.5" ID flange and be no more than 6" tall.

I'm thinking some possible industrial/tractor applications, but haven't found anything quite yet....

 

What about just putting a pre filter sock on it?

 

would that catch that super fine dust thats been making it past the filter?


I also thought about a pre-filter at the top of the snorkel, but not sure how effective that would be for what I'm needing, something like this maybe

 

The AFE dry filters are the best I have ever used. I don't see any dust past the filter with these like I have with others. I do also have one of the filter socks on there too.

 

Also, on another topic, has anyone added a supplementary pusher e-fan to their SC'd setup?

I've got an overheating issue during idle I need to mitigate. Its 110% an airflow issue, likely due to the armor/bumper inhibiting factory intended airflow.

In hot conditions when crawling or idling, the temps will slowly increase. If i toss it in neutral and rev it, the temps drop immediately due to the clutch fan speed increase. I can also open the hood and the temps will drop (albeit not as quickly).

I think a 10" pusher fan installed to a manual switch to supplement the OEM fan would work great in those conditions, but with the additional SC hardware up there, its a little tight.

I've considered hood vents/louvers but would rather try a fan first as I think that would be the more effective route.

 

I'd agree with you except for super heavy dusty offroad conditions. I run afe in all my vehicles for the same reason as you, but I've learned they just can't handle high dust conditions unfortunately.

A few years back I rebuilt the top end of my engine due to low compression caused by worn/"tuliping" valve faces. Had not a single clue what caused it bad had the heads redone, had injectors sent off and flow tested/cleaned etc. etc.

A year and 10k miles later (lots of dusty trips too), the same issue presented itself (different valves though iirc). I ended up replacing the engine at that point with a low mileage unit.

I was determined it was an issue with the machine shop (very reputable shop) and nothing on my truck, since I've ran the same air filter setup for the last 6 years, but reflecting back on it and observing fine dust past the air filter since the new engine has been installed, its the only possible cause for these issues i can think of...

at a minimum, maybe i need to try a new afe filter and a dust sock. im not convinced it would provide the filtration I'm looking for though...

maybe aFe's proguard 7 air filters???

 

Have you cleaned the rad any time recent? When I upgraded to the CSF I found my stock one was pretty clogged with crap on the lower 1/3rd behind the bumper. Same situation as yours my bumper blocks a good portion of it. I didn't have any over-heating issues but it was an eye-opener.

I also have a bookmark for this performance fan upgrade. I forgot where I saw this but I think someone used one on a Taco or FJ? Anyone know if this drops in? @jamesepoop

https://us.gktech.com/products/sr-ka-rb-vg-high-performance-engine-fan-60-more-air-flow

 

Unfortunately yes, literally my entire cooling system is brand new (rad, waterpump, fan clutch, thermostat, etc.) plus i replaced the factory rad with an oversize mishimoto and it would overheat. Ive read about others having similar issue just due to heatsoak and lack of air flow at idle/near idle speeds combined with the box we essentially put the engine in when we add bumpers and armor lol.

i hadn't thought about changing the OEM fan with a different style though. I'd be intrigued to hear if anyone did it and benefitted....

 

Valve tuliping is due to inadequate clearance so yea probably the machine shop issue. Sand ingestion would show as bearing wear , easy to test for silicon content in your oil. Think of the amount of people still running K&N which have about a shop rag worth of filtration, non-issue.

 

I'm following what you're saying and don't fully disagree. Butttt whats confusing is that the factory engine failed in the same exact fashion (obviously machine shop untouched). Having seen dust past my air filter, it makes sense that the poor air quality would be acting as an abrasive to the valve faces/seats. The dusty conditions I've driven in are like can barely see 50ft in front of you, dust screen, need chase lights on vehicle in front of you kind of dust haha

I did just get off the phone with aFe and they recommended i try their proguard 7 filter which is 7 layers (vs 3) and is oiled vs dry. They did also say that the pre-filter could help with dust, so that could be a high possibiltiy why youve had better success than I have with your filtration setup.

 

Sounds like your fan clutch may be going out.

 

more layers but less flow. i dont know how much less flow. hell, its worth a shot before changing your whole set up.

 

I think this was @Lucario Runner .

 

its brand new OEM

 

im going to try it and see what happens. I'm not too concerned about flow/performance at this point. Just want it to run good and be reliable at this point....

I'd be lying if I said I dont regret selling my URD headers and roostfactor y pipe a while back but ive realized its not a racetruck as much as I want it to be

 

Those pre-filters do work. My buddy runs one on his snorkel and I've been meaning to grab one myself.

I also run an K&N oiled filter with my Snorkel and never get fine dust/silt beyond the filter and haven't had any issues with the setup or dust since installation. Been running this setup for like 8 years

 

Heck yeah. Good to know.

I just read this aFe article and it all makes sense now. The prodry for my application has definitely NOT been the move. I'm going to try their oiled proguard 7 and see what that yields.

I really should have dealt with this years ago but have been stupidly lazy...

 

Correct