Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Right on, I was saving a pretty penny to throw in a for a rock assault 9 and mate that with a ford 9 from ECGS. But this might be the route I take. Yup, seen plenty of 80’s run same set up and never had issues. Again, the rear is my main concern. Could probably make up for it selling my rear trussed 8 along with the disc brake conversion and the chrome shafts.

 

Beware of rear disc brake conversion minus a functioning ebrake. If you attend organized events, some host will perform a safety check to ensure you have a working ebrake among other things. If you don't, you will not be able to participate.

A plus with using the FF80 is your speedo will function. Connect your abs harness to the 80 abs sensor, that's it. Nothing special, ask me how I know, lol.

 

When I was looking at getting a stub shaft done I struggled to find anyone to do cryo.

No personal experience but read good things about cryo for strength, no idea on polished stuff other than seeing buggies do it to avoid break in, I figure it would still cook the oil with fresh bearings and everything?

 

Here's one that popped up in a google search. https://www.nitrofreeze.com/services/conventional-cryogenic-treatment/motorsports-racing-auto-parts/
A while back when I looked there were a couple of companies that advertised the ability

Probably right about the oil on the break in though.

 

You'll be fine. Just don't let the skinny pedal bite you. A FF80 or fab 9 would be a nice match to your front Diamond.

Or there is always the HP10 route lol. These hurt the wallet and I still have one more to buy..

 

Question about upper to lower link ratio-
Lowers are at 44.5" and the upper is at 43".
Pinion flange is set at 7.5* at ride height. Fully drooped it's 11*. Should I try to shorten the upper more? My understanding is the shorter the upper, the pinion changes angle less. Or any other positive/ negatives I'm over looking?

 

What radiator are you 5VZ guys running (manual transmission or separate trans cooler)?

My research is pointing me toward a 2RZ radiator (something like OSC 1986) and replacing the lower hose with Gates 22120 (and cutting ~3” off). I’d like to keep my OEM fan if possible. Is this a good option or are there better options out there (like an aluminum Griffin radiator) that are as bolt-on as possible?

Also what should be done with the shroud? Just cut off the bottom?

 

My input:
There’s 3 difference size radiator,

$147 Denso 221-3137 Radiator

Denso 221-3137 (1” core IIRC) sits flush with the frame. Denso 221-3136 hangs about 1.50” below the frame (1.25” core).

$168 Denso 221-3138 Radiator

Denso 221-3138 is for the auto v6, hangs the farthest down. They all have atf cooler built-in atf cooler.

I had no issue switching from oem Toyota v6 radiator to the smaller core Denso 221-3136 running 40” tires with summer heat averaging 100~110. Up until 2 or so years ago, I decided to go with the KoyoRad 2 row radiator and ditch the Denso. The koyo physical measurement is identical to 221-3136 but have a 1.75” vs 1.25” core and 2 row vs 1. I’m auto but had ran an extra large external atf cooler so I didn’t matter.

Auto will required an external cooler if you plan on running the koyo as they do not have built in cooler. I have the koyo with Toyota coolant without issue for several years now.

picture: top is atf cooler and bottom is steering cooler

 

@Team_Jake

Another post I put out


Denso 221-3136
Dimensions - Core Height: 20.62 Dimensions - Core Thickness: 1.25 Dimensions - Core Width: 24.62
Row: 1

$147 Denso 221-3137 Radiator

Denso 221-3137
Dimensions - Core Height: 18.75 Dimensions - Core Thickness: 1.00 Dimensions - Core Width: 24.62
Row: 1

$168 Denso 221-3138 Radiator

Denso 221-3138
Dimensions - Core Height: 22.75
Dimensions - Core Thickness: 1.25 Dimensions - Core Width: 24.62
Row: 1

My person opinion, might as well run full aluminum.
KoyoRad VH010513 & SK-C13 cap -
Core is 1.75 and 2 rows. Identical overall measurement to Denso 221-3136. This radiator coolant capacity is larger, hence, able to supply cooler coolant to the engine and have no ATF cooler. For the auto guys, you’ll need to run an external cooler like I did.

If you’re running the shorter radiator, you’ll need a different lower hose: Gates 22120 / Napa 8791 and a Toyota Tacoma manual transmission fan shroud:#16711-07020 or #TO3110111

 

KoyoRad FTW

Shroud -
Left, cut v6 shroud for Denso 221-3136
Right, shorter shroud. Fits perfect.

 

Are there any all aluminum (not Chinesium) radiators with the shortest core height (18-5/8”) to sit flush with the frame? Or is the shortest all aluminum option 20-3/4”?

Edit: I see that Champion makes one, CC1778 is the SKU. Out of stock now unfortunately.

 

There is one with similar measurements as you asked. I kept this part number in my notes for future reference. I didn’t like how the mounting ears are welded on. I believe this designed will cause the radiator to crack and leak over time, especially if the truck experience offroad abuse.

You can try it and let me know how it goes and how long the radiator last.

Brand: Cold Case
Part number: TAC105A
Summit Racing part number: RAD-TAC105A

Specs:
Overall height: 27.40”
Overall length: 23.38”
Overall thickness: 2.20”
Row: 2
Core width: 25.13”
Core height: 18.88”

 

Champion radiator is garbage.

Your other option is to get one custom built to your specs. Will cost about 1k depending on core thickness. Years ago when I got one quoted for 3 row was about 1100, considering inflation price, probably 1500 now.

 

Couldn’t agree more, Champion radiator is not good. I rather go with KoyoRad over the Cold Case tho but I don’t have any experience with Cold Case. I ran KoyoRad on my other vehicles with success, some with more than 600hp without failure. Denso was good but it’s a hit and missed with quality control. I still prefer Denso over store brand radiator tho.

 

Look like you done your homework with radiator @02hilux

great info

 

I ran the Denso for years, issue free. I decided to swap it out for the KoyoRad because I wanted more cooling capacity and I was never a fan of having plastic on the radiator. I kept the Denso as a back up, collecting dust in the garage.

 

I don’t do impulse buy. I like to do my research and know what I’m getting. Quality over quantity. Buy once, cry once.

 

Glad I asked here! Radiator tech is something I’ve done almost zero research into.

 

Glad I can provide some useful information to others.

 

Rear link length suggestion? New build has a subframe. Where it ends currently flush with the atlas output flange would make lower links like 50” long. Fronts are 36. Other build was like 42-44” for front links and they are pretty bent. I’m thinking try to get the rear links roughly 38-42” long but open to suggestions. No trailing arms. Shocks have to be mounted to the axle.