Auto to Manual Conversion

The abs module just want to make the point to buy it while youre getting the ecm so you dont screw yourself. I suspect you dont need one as you mentioned its based on weighting. 2nd gens were not so lucky.

In all the hours i spent tracing the wiring diagrams, i could not find any reason youd need a manual engine harness, you could do that for sure and it would make more plug and play but the manual has less wiring than the automatic does. So most of it gets capped from the auto removal and you can pull the pins at the ecm level. And youd adjust some wires to go to a different place here and there but it seems very doable from a schematic perspective.

Im a bit skeptical on mileage being tied to the ecm, I couldnt find any info about that and ecms can be changed and are changed via dealers due to failure, ot wouldnt make sense to tie an ecm to mileage in that regard. I came across some members here that swapped an ecm in a trd pro (flood issues) and I dont recall anything about their mileage changing again could be wrong.

I dont think there are any differences between the auto and manual clusters, as that also would cost more money in parts from toyota. I think the cluster gets its signal for drive status from the auto assembly and if you unplug it you lose the signal. Again thats speculation. You shouldnt get any error codes that id be aware of, short of, potential abs issues. If you tried to keep the auto ecm, that will pop codes, that was true for 2nd gen swappers.

 

The reason you would want the manual engine harness is for the manual transmission specific connectors like the neutral switch and backup light switch. I'd have to dig into the diagrams more to see if those same exact circuits exist on the auto trucks, but I'm not sure until I do that. The engine harness off a manual truck would it make it super simple - literally just swapping from one engine to another. Time consuming but just in case the proper circuits do not exist on the auto engine harness, it would really make it easy. The auto should not have the neutral circuit I don't believe, and the reverse circuit is different. I believe it sends the reverse signal over CAN. But I'd need to dig back through again.

I believe the ECM learns the mileage when you install it and follow the learn procedure. Pretty sure it talks to the instrument cluster and gains the mileage info from there.

The instrument cluster maybe could be kept, and maybe the PRND would just disappear and not throw any weird codes or anything. I do know there are probably 30 different combination meter part numbers per year, and so I have to imagine Toyota is using a different part number for auto/manual. So it may or may not be a problem. Since no one is known to have done the swap yet, we can't really say.

 

my US market 2020 truck does not have a windshield washer fluid level sensor, Canadian market do. I have a wiring harnass and connnector under the botttle for the sensor, so i bought the canadian PN washer bottle with a level sensor and plugged it in, no indication on the dash. I pulled a wiring diagram from TIS and troubleshot the system, the sensor worked and the wiring apeared to be connected at the dash, as far as i can tell the US spec cluster module simply wasnt programmed to recive the signal and do anything with it. maybe im wrong and its much more simple than that but thats when i stopped looking into it.

point is you'd be suprised what little, but critical issues might arise.

These are the sort of issues youd be running into, but hey it would make a cool thread weather it worked or not, good luck OP

btw if someone out there knows how to get a washer level sensor working on US trucks im all ears

 

Yep, same point I had. They all loo the same and use the same connectors but they have subtle differences. I would imagine the auto and manual ones are truly different.

And I did the same. I did a continuity test and figured out I definitely had the wire in the cab all the way to the level sensor. But nope, wouldn’t do anything at the cluster. Dumb.

 

So, adding something to a gauge cluster is different then removing something. I would think youd have a similar issue if you tried to convert a 4x2 to 4x4, the indicators may be there but you might not get the combo meter to talk to a 4x4 ecu, doesnt mean you dont have 4x4 just means you wouldnt be able to see it on the dash.

Like adding atrac and crawl control to a sport or sr5, probably isnt possible per say without swapping a cluster.

The cluster doesnt care about the manual transmission, theres no indicators for being in a specific gears (at least I dont think there is, thered be more wiring for that)

Im gonna speculate that mileage is tracked in the same sequence as speed is.

Wheel sensors to skid/abs to cluster to ecm. The total distance gets stored in the cluster. The speed signal goes on to the ecm for motor control.

Theres a post around these foruns of someone getting a a cluster swap and toyota had to order it preprogrammed with the same mileage, fed stuff n shit.

I know manual transmissions use a sensor for speed reference and i guess you would know with your swaps. I cant recall of the top of my head if it does or doesn't.

Auto trans has park neutral switch, similar to the manual, just more wires.

 

I think the ECU and cluster communicate via Canbus, if either see somthing they dont like it might throw a code.
Someone will just have to try it.

 

Automatics come with a difference vaccuum pump design. I’m sure it’s ok though since it’s hookled up to the engine.

 

It would probably be cheaper in the long run to turn short bed MT into a long bed MT, just a frame and bed swap....right?

 

I don’t think that’s correct. Should be the same vacuum pump for any V6 no matter what transmission is behind it…

 

That’s what I wanted to do. It wouldn’t be too bad I don’t think…except there is no hydraulic booster part number for me if I did that. If I had a vacuum boosted truck then it would be easier because I could just swap the abs module.

 

Rear disk swap it and then none of that matters
Hell at that point you could just get a 4th gen frame and have a 4 link rear while your at it

 

Sorry minor confusion on my end. I meant the TRD pros and off roads come with a hydraulic vaccuum pump and no brake booster.

 

Minor correction, it’s a hydraulic booster that uses no vacuum at all. But yes it is trim specific, not transmission specific. Manual sports use the same stuff as what he has in his current sport, so he’s good there.

 

Thats where my disconnect is, im not veiwing the cluster as a source of causing code throws. ECMs throw the code based on input failure, deliver that to that cluster for the user to see.

I probably need to get with the times.

I considered it. It seems negligible. Either you have to extend your short bed frame and place the axle correctly. I'm not exactly sure there, math and measuring a long bed frame? I dunno, the easier choice being swap the frames but damn that seems like a lot of work. But if you have a empty frame you could tackle other shit like proper rust proofing, boxing etc, that would be fun and cool.

 

sure you can. Get it done and report back to this fine thread your results.

 

I agree. Go for it. We all need something to watch now that the limped home truck is fixed

 

Go find a stock 2nd and 3rd Gen DCLB manual. The OP has a DCLB.

 

Nm

 

Long bed, not long wheelbase. You are seeing access cabs if they have a long bed.

 

And DCLB manual Tacomas don't exist