2017 struggling to 2k rpm

Good day all, long time scroller, first time poster. Im looking for some assistance with an issue I've been trying to figure out.

3rd gen 2017, 3.5ltr, 54000km, AT. Bone stock.

-Boggs down with load, from a stop 600 rpm to 2k rpm, takes literally 4-5 seconds. Then it takes off like a bat out of hell.
-eng sputters
-No CEL, or pending codes.
-Spark plugs 1,3,5 all lean, 2,4,6 very rich.
-Even in manual trans mode, eng boggs down still.
-Revs fine in N and P.
-Same issue in reverse.
-same with trac on or off.
-no better with ECT on.
-does have a loud tick (diesel eng sound)


Changed-checked:
- Spark plugs
- Sprayed /cleaned throttle body/MAF.
- air filter
- intake manifold ,ACIS flap. Good.
- rad fluid
- sprayed intake for vacuum leak while watching rpms, nothing.
- warmed up for 24hrs in a hgr.
- supreme gas 91 oct.
- all EFI fuses, fuel related fuses
- disconnected battery

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Kinda at a loss with this one.
Living up in Yellowknife, not much for Toyota shops/dealers. Kinda hesitant pulling out in traffic. Even though the speed limit here is only 45km! This is my 3rd tacoma, I know they are sluggish, but this is horrible.

Suspecting LP fuel issue or injectors.. but looking for some other input/ideas on what to check.
My next step is to look at my long term fuel trims.

 

How long have you owned this particular truck?

 

I've had it for a year and a half. Its been great otherwise. Ive put 14k on it.
This issue just started last week.

 

Get a scanner and look at bank 2 live data ( fuel trims, close loop, vvti, etc) and compare to bank1.
Also, read fuel pressure values.
Checked compression on bank 2?

 

I would start with a compression test as well as a coolant pressure test.

 

Of course scan for codes and start there but in the absence of codes i'd look at live data, i'd be curious to see both bank's fuel trims and if one is rich and the other lean an equal amount...a quick skim read is leading me to believe a cat is plugged

 

Thanks for the input and suggestions, hopefully tonight I'll get to scan it.
Will be sure to post the results.

 

I’m experiencing something similar in my 2019 TRD Off Road. It has 75k miles on it, just got back from a 3k mile road trip and it’s starting to sputter in between 1500-2000 RPMs when it’s been driven around for 5-10mins. Really interested in seeing your results.

 

I would want to take the AFR sensors out and check exhaust backpressure with a gauge, I'm thinking you may have a plugged/restricted catyletic converter.

 

I was going to suggest checking cat too

 

Man I am starting to be concerned, all these 3.5 issues are almost starting to become too frequent on forum.

Since that is 2017 truck, and you had it from 2023 I assume. It was prev owned by someone? 2016-2017 seem to be in these issues

 

I agree, it seems like the 2017 have a lot problems. I have a 2021 and wonder how long before we start seeing /reading problems on that year. So far it has been a great truck.

 

I had something similar a few months back with my 2020 v6 at about 70k miles. I did most of what you did and it finally resolved itself and I'm not sure how. It didn't throw any codes either. Maybe you already did these but if not, try these:

- Remove and inspect the coil packs. One of mine was much darker than the others. Not oily but burnt? Picked up 1 new one and installed it.
- Disconnect both battery terminals, and not just negative for 30 mins then reconnect.
- Take it for a long drive. In D. Not S, no ECT. I was surprised to find you have to drive quite a few miles at a minimum speed for the ecu to relearn.

Just a guess. Not sure what actually resolved my issue but after doing most of what you did and the 3 things above, it felt like the day I drove it off the lot. Good luck.

 

Ok, I got a couple scans in.

I did disconnect the battery prior, but only the neg, disconnected both + - just now, I'll wait and reconnect after 30-45 min.

When checking the plugs, I looked at the coils, seen nothing obvious, tossed some die-electric on the connectors and plug, tossed the coils and plugs back in.

Thanks for all the input and ideas. I'm also leaning toward a plugged cat.

Here's the info that raised an eyebrow...
Ps: Not sure how the fuel pressures work. Is it normal for it to build up to 3k psi while idling? From what i little info i could find its normal.

 

See the difference between bank 1 and 2 fuel trims. Bank 2 at it max limit. Something causing that bank run rich

 

Need to check injection mode status. There is that famous injector cleaning cycle that kick off at hot idle.
The value is definitely off.
Also, check O2 B1S1 and B2S1 sensors

 

-- Update --
- I found unplugging the battery for both leads for 20+ min would make the truck drive great for 10-20 min.
- sometimes it would drive great, other times it ticked louder and coughed. But never tossed a solid CEL, only pending rich bank 2, misfire 3/4/5.
- shop changed the spark plugs again, all looked fouled.
- shop changed the throttle body, same issue.
- found oil in the intake, pcv valve changed, found oil in the intake again after another 500kms.

So, looking for a 3rd opinion, I drove it to the nearest toyota dealership 1200kms away.
They diagnosed it, found metal shavings in the oil filter. Soo, new engine.

The dealer was surprised that the truck made it. And the one local shop didn't find it.

All and all, happy we didnt get stuck on the hwy and very glad a reputable toyota dealer is doing the work.

I was hoping that this thread would help others with a simple, or somewhat simple solution to this issue i was having. Unfortunately, it didn't go as planned. But wanted to put closure on this.

 

Another one.

 

In their diagnosis, did they find anything that may have caused those metal shavings related to one side running rich and the other running lean?
It feels like there is a lot of something, in between those issues that isn't addressed.

 

I want to keep informed on what they find. Any info I get, I'll pass on here.