Long Travel BS Thread

Minis aren't even that small anymore

 

My old neighbor used to have like 5-6 1st gen mini coopers. Always in his front yard. They're so small

 

It’s kinda funny. I used to thrive on small, fast cars. Now that I’m in the truck stuff, I don’t even feel safe in a small car anymore. I even feel a little uneasy not in 4 points now. Kinda weird how that works.

 

I don't even remember that second generation.

 

Tuning question(s) my recent 2x des runs I noticed the front keeps wanting to nose dive, and then reviewing some videos it seems like the front is pushing the nose down thru a whoop almost like I don't have enough spring in the front?
I have 550 lbs now, would going back to 600's help to keep the nose up some what?

 

If you’re running coilovers and a secondary. It is a very worth while thing to toss some valving in the coilover. You will find your secondary will run significantly cooler as well.

 

My thoughts exactly with my girlfriend car… Autocross platform !
She’d not be stoked tho.

 

I have no issue with heat in the front, I only have heat issues with the rear bypasses. last session the fronts were warm not hot and rears I could barely touch ( time for 3.0's)

 

Like the front is packing down?
Open rebound if you can.

 

no like the nose starts thru the whoop, and suspension is moving up, but the rear is being pushed up and driving the nose down, even if I crank the comp tubes near almost in ( front bypass) and the ride is like a a dump truck.

 

Here’s what I did with mine. We ended in a pretty good spot last year.

I dropped from 20/12 in my secondary and went 15/12 with a rate plate. Though I suggest playing with valving before a rate plate as it was frustrating getting the plate right.

In the coilover I ended up 15/12 as well.

Will a spring make it not want to dive? Yes. But really it’s nothing more than masking the actual problem and will cause sacrifices in chop.

I would try starting with the coilover. Maybe even 12/12 to start and working with the secondary to fine tune things in. If it’s still trying to dive, go 15/12

 

Any idea what you have for valving front and rear?

 

yes and no, front bypasses are TC spec and 20c/15r CO's are whatever standard valving from King, rears are 20c/10-12 r

 

Coilover has too much valving for being paired with a bypass. But I’m guessing your problem with nose diving is the rear unless you have a shit ton of weight back there. My rears were 15/8 compression tubes turned in about half way and rebound wide open.

my front coil over is 10/10 with flutters on both sides

 

I do have some weight, more weight in the rear than the front, Battery, all my recovery gear, First aid/trauma backpack, tools, air compressor all in a medium tool box, very large ice chest, 6 gallons of fuel and a 35Inch spare hanging off the rear bumper( tire gate) I removed the recovery bumper and ditched the co2 tank saved roughly 200+ lbs and moved stuff out of the cab to the bed/toolbox.

The rear once fully loaded I have roughly 4 inches to the bump left (2x2 king bump)
, Im thinking I need to order another leaf from deaver like many have done before me ( Deaver H70HD packs) JD Fab rear SUA.

 

When you say 4” of bump zone do you mean you only have 4” of up travel in the rear before bottoming out? If that’s the case then that’s a big problem right there. Need to at least double that number

 

4 inches to the bump, not counting the 2 inches of bump travel I edited that statement

 

Gotcha. Still pretty low for a sua setup. Heavier leaf’s or an add a leaf to get you some more uptravel would help and then soften the rear compression valving is where I’d start.

 

Direction I am thinking, Monday ill stop by JD fab and get Jesse to order me a leaf from deaver, then go purchase 3.0's I think is the next move.

I have thought about having a custom aux fuel tank made and have it mounted to the space between the toolbox and bedwall ( 8 gallons)

this would remove some of the very rear bed weight

 

3.0’s would be nice but only if you can get them to flow with valving. Based on what you’re saying I think your problems in the front are because the rear is bucking for 2 reasons. 1 not enough up travel and 2 not enough flow/valving too stiff and not allowing the rear to compress. But that’s not watching any video or anything so just a guess.

I’m about 2600lbs on the rear axle and my 2.5’s worked amazing. I’m going to 3.0’s mainly because they’re 5 tube and more adjustability and because I got a smokin deal on them